Must have modifications

[Punkin Drublic]

Wondering what people consider must do modifications to cdories. Intended use being extended cruising/fishing. 2 adults, I'm 6'3 300lbs and she's 5'6 and 140. Occasional day use, 4 adults. Want to do at least several day long trips, don't think I'm ready to circumnavigate the island like some people I've read about here.

In looking at the forum and new boat equipment lists I'd prefer the 26 for added space and composite core but my budget without debt is more in line with a mid/late 90's 22.

My list so far

-twins
-2 tanks with a valved pipe connection
-wallace stove delete - alcohol camp stove
-amazon heater install, run defrost vent(s)
-bathroom/head/shower delete. Extended counter space instead with storage beneath. Lug a loo bucket or compost toilet. Maybe a fold up counter top and closet door if compost toilet.
-cut away of berth wall in front of port passenger seat.
-remove all hardware, seal and remount hardware
-amazon fridge/cooler like we carry in vehicles
-electric wipers
-microwave delete
-small inverter
-cockpit helm
-trim tabs
-4 blade props

Looking for feedback on well storage (best use) scotty mount locations/methods, alternate bimini's for cockpit (like the add a room but dislike fishing interference) anchor drum vs windlass, fish storage ideas, radar, solar, other roof mount options/ideas.

If you've read this far, please, through your ideas/favourite mods out there. Next boat is forever boat so not in a rush if it means getting it right. Famous last words.

[Schuster]

Just my opinion, nothing more;

twins (not my preference due to added maintenance expense)

-2 tanks with a valved pipe connection (not familiar with how 22's are set up but may require modification to accomplish)

-wallace stove delete - alcohol camp stove (I like my wallace stove/heater and use butane camp stove mostly for cooking).

-amazon heater install, run defrost vent(s) (not familiar with it, I use the wallace for cabin heat.

-bathroom/head/shower delete. Extended counter space instead with storage beneath. Lug a loo bucket or compost toilet. Maybe a fold up counter top and closet door if compost toilet. (not required for the 22 as there is no head, only a porta-poti)

-cut away of berth wall in front of port passenger seat. (good idea)

-remove all hardware, seal and remount hardware (may not be necessary for all hardware but definitely where the gas tanks are mounted to the deck which has been a problem with the 22's)

-amazon fridge/cooler like we carry in vehicles (we have an Iceco frige/freezer cooler and find it to be a good addition for freezing fish or shrimp on our fishing trips and cooler space when just cruising. Down side is they do take up space and you'll need a dedicated battery and charger to accomodate it)

-electric wipers (yes a good addition)
-microwave delete (not C-dory's don't come with one)
-small inverter (good idea if you have shore power if not a portable one is handy)

-cockpit helm (would be nice but not a requirement and the added expense may make it prohibitive)

-trim tabs (yes good addition, may also consider a permatrim fin.

-4 blade props (not required and may not provide any added value)

Looking for feedback on well storage (best use) scotty mount locations/methods, alternate bimini's for cockpit (like the add a room but dislike fishing interference) anchor drum vs windlass, fish storage ideas, radar, solar, other roof mount options/ideas.

You can look in some albums to see scotty mount location ideas.

As far a bimini top/covers, I removed mine because I like the fishing area to be interference free. But if you look at the Ranger R23 they have a nice 1/2 length bimini that I'm considering having made for my 25'. Just for shade purposes I have a Tommy Bahama sunbrella that can be put into pole holders or strapped in place etc.

I prefer the Lewmar 700 windlass as opposed to the drum personel preference.

For fish storage I use an insulated fish bag with ice in it until I fillet out the fish and package in the Iceco freezer.

Radar arch tall enough to fit an inflatable dingy under it. with radar platform and anchor light. As for radar I have the Garmin and like it.

I don't have solar but it would be nice to charge the battery for the freezer.

Hope some of this helps.

[thataway]

I had my "forever boat" 30 years and at least a dozen boats ago...Still wish I had that boat...but could not because of where I live (6' draft). Also the Trailerable boats allowed exploration of most of the Rivers in Eastern USA, plus lakes in the West.

You can do anything you want to fiberglass boats--many of your modifications voiced will degrade the value of the boat for resale. Cutting out the port side of a 25/26 is easy, and will increase the value most likely. Re-bed hardware I have done on many boats. I have been using the portable chest refer/freezers for over 50 years. Be careful of "amazon brand". Go with the best--not the cheapest. The others are debatable but do-able.

A factory mod with your features--not going to happen.

[BigSwede]

I have wondered why the fuel tanks are not linked. Seems like a good idea.

Cutting away the port side berth wall might be a good thing, going to have to think about that.

The rest doesn't seem all that relevant to my situation.

[thataway]

There are some fuel tanks--earlier in the C Dory 22 and probably custom made, which are larger and have a connection at the bottom--as part of the tank. You don't want a leak of gasoline inside of the cockpit. This is why the tanks are not connected via a "pipe" or hose. The fuel pickups are always on top of the tank for gas engines--bottom and transfer for the diesel.

Each opening into the fuel tank must be at
or above the topmost surface of the tank.

ABYC standards are on line for gasoline fuel tank:

[Punkin Drublic]

Good call on the ABYC standards regarding fuel tank openings at the top. Other ways to transfer fuel anyway if needed. I actually didnt know of there was a difference regarding diesel/gas tanks. Will run rancor fuel filters at any rate for water.

[Punkin Drublic]

As to amazon purchases, I’ve units in mind already that I’ve used for other purposes so confident in their use. Especially for cooking and heating. That wallace stove is simply too much money and I don’t want it built in.

I thought the venture 26 came with a microwave.. might be a dealer install.

As for down rigger mounting. Is there anyone that regrets certain locations due to gunnel weakness?

Great call on the tall radar arch for dingy/sups/yaks. Thanks for mentioning that.

Appreciate the advice also regarding factory mods. I was under the impression they were open to some mod’s if prepaid or significant portion was put down. Can understand what I want is not for everyone. Resale be damned lol, I don’t typically with anything. My Chev is 2006. I did finally sell the minivan even though it had barely 200,000km on it. My wife wanted a SUV and 2023 was the last year for 4runners built in Japan, paid in advance and took the shrink rap off myself at the dealership.

Several other good points and inputs given, can’t respond to them all but I DO appreciate.

[C-Green]

A few comments concerning a CD-22. Most use of the boat has been on Lake Superior for 22 years, nice and nasty times, 0 - 10 passengers, usually 1-3 passengers, twin Honda 40s, moderate to heavy loading
1) 4 bladed props great (Solas approximately 11"x11")- easily get on plane with one engine, top speed one engine 14smph - approx 4200rpm, twins 27smph - approx 5600rpm
2) I haven't done it but cutting out the passenger side bulkhead sounds good to me, I may do it - allows much easier in/out of cuddy and leg stretching for passenger
3) definitely want heat, I'm very happy with my new Wallas, much better than the original one but pricey
4) Bimini/camper back - with 3 passengers camper back was great on nasty days -doubles the room for passengers - be sure to get screened rollup windows. For fishing the two sides and the back were zipped off and stored and the bimini could be folded against the cabin and bungeed in place to the grab handles - bimini frame was held in place at the cabin by snaps on the roof, at the gunnel on a rail that the base would slid on allowing collapsed storage along the gunnels and across the stern just ahead of the splash well (longer term storage on nice days but takes longer to do as the top needs to be rolled around the frame) and the stern connection was straps from the top stern frame to screw heads on the splash well sides for grommets on the strap ends. That all allowed a quick move of the bimini against and out of the way on the cabin bulkhead - just release the grommets and rotate the unit over to the cabin.
4) Rest of the advice so far looks good.

Jay

[Punkin Drublic]

Thanks for the input of Solas props. I’ve wanted to try them. I know with my current boat, going to a 4 blade aluminum prop made such a huge difference for me. Lost a couple mph off the top but gained in the mid range even when loaded which is perfect. If I could change one thing with the rebel 188 is the pod, it is part of the planing hull but narrow so little benefit unless I’m at higher speeds.

Weldcraft bugged up with the kicker bracket, digs in banking to port. The 4 blade definitely helps keep the ass up and when pulling tubes it has far more bite in the corners. Feel like they’d be a win on a cdory.

Wonder how the sharrow props will do when they come down in price.


As to the bimini, I’m a bit torn. Like the add a room but where I am we don’t get the bugs like other places. Like the suggested ranger tug style. Also considering just 2 poles off the stern to hold a shade snapped to the cabin.

For transducers, how are cdories for through hull? Or is it off the transom best location? Love my 1kw airmar ‘boot’.

Thanks for the feedback, there is a lot to go through in these forums, its one thing if I go used but if we buy new I want to set things up once.

[Punkin Drublic]

For those who fish, regarding the 22/23 cruisers, what multi day catch options do ppl utilize?

Only options I can think of are roof top coolers or possibly a cooler bag in the motor well?