2007 Cruiser 22 Aft deck damage

[MattyE]

So I am looking at a Cdory, it has lots of goodies on it, but overall has a lot of diy stuff that needs to be stripped down and start from scratch. If I am able to get the boat for a reasonable price, I am happy to do the work.

However, there is a significant crack between the cabin and the aft deck floor and a really poor "repair" job.

What I want to know is if I were to purchase this boat, what am I getting into with this floor? Does it need to be cut out and replaced? Is there rot underneath? I'm not sure what the makeup of the 2007 year is.

See image

https://imgur.com/gallery/WzJxUsZ

[thataway]

From the photo, it appears that the floor has pulled away from the bulkhead. I am very suspicious that the tabbing of the bulkhead to the bottom (inside) of the hull has failed...

There is nothing about the 2007'--The photo does not show that there was a repair of the floor--but I suspect that it needs it. I would look at the edges of the hatches, sound out the entire floor, and if there has been no water standing in the cockpit--best a camper canvas or slant back to keep any water out. Then check with a moisture meter to see if there are changes . You should be able to see the core around the fuel tank sender (pie plate cutout near the center, and the pie plate access hatch further aft where you access the bilge pump.

Does water from the deck get in the cabin. If so, there is definately separation of the lower dabing.

The L bracket (not SS or galvanized--rusted). and what appear to be single layer of cloth tying the cockpit deck and after bulkhead. If you find delamination/core water intrusion--and after you buy the boat, drill some sample holes in this cockpit deck. To make a new deck, you can cut out the old, all aroung the perimeter--a Fien Saw or small circular saw, with carbide blades, or diamond cutting wheel is the way to go. You will also remove the corner forward boxes (or steps with inspection plates. There will be rot in these and re-coring easy.

While you are in there, it would make sense to check the fuel tank-I probably would remove the tank, and even if it appears good, I would dry it throughly and then coat it with coal tar epoxy and then a single part epxoy (Bright side or Bilge Kote")".
put fiber glass battens fore and aft for the tank to sit on. Glue the strips down with 5200 --but also check the inner surface of the bottom (inside skin of the hull bottom).

I used Nadi Core for the deck I recored in the 25--but more recently we used Coosa 20 for the deck of my caracal cat (18' center console catamaran. Use a thickened gel coat with a coarse roller for the cockpit non skid or Awlgrip (or equivilant) to give a non sliip surface--or you could put pait, sprinkle fine glas beads or sand, then two more coats of the paint. for the top surface of the cockpit floor. I put one layer of 1708 on the bottom and two layers of 1708 for the top. You may want to put another layer of mat on top, to prefent printing of the Nadi core

[T.R. Bauer]

There is no way of knowing until to jump into it and that is the honest truth. As far as repairing it? It's going to be basically what Bob took the time to outline. I strongly suspect you will find some rot and I can't believe those L brackets were even put in as a "fix". If you can get it for cheap and it has a good trailer and engine, maybe it's a good deal if you like doing that sort of stuff.

[thataway]

I bought the 2003 C Dory 25 for $30,000. It had the hole in the cockpit deck, and some delamination of the "V" berth platform. The boat had been abused, and left out in the New Jersey winter for at least several years, with no cover--not much usable in the way of electronics, 130 (115 block) Honda engine. There was no trailer. This was also was about 15 years ago.

I am aware of a repair of the deck, comparable to yours and it was about $10.000 to have it done. Find the other "weakness of the boat and we can figure how much it will cost to have a shop repair any other damage. I would deduct any repairs needed from the asking price and make your offer at that level. Don't knock the boat--or praise it too highly. State you are willing to take a chance--that anyone who looks at the boat knows that the repair is going to cost $$$ and is necessary to properly repair the boat for use (and sale). Shop labor runs from $125 to $200 an hour in our area for fiberglass repair. Some independents go for as low as $50 an hour--but $80 is far more common.