Radiant heat from solid fuel

[Donald Tyson]

Anyone using a radiant heat source aboard their C-Dory? I have always wanted a quiet ( no fan) source of heat to warm my bones with. I had always thought a Dickinson type would be perfect but where would one place it on a CDory?
I wish I could have earth without fans or electric being involved.

[Foggy]

I suggest a free source of radiant energy to fulfill your craving: sunshine.

Aye.

[kennharriet]

I think the Dickinson solid fuel heater could be mounted in the same place that I mounted the Dickinson Fireplace P9000. See in Lochsa album. Only downside is would be nice to have the heater lower for more convective heating. The fireplace heats the cabin decent without the fan so I think the solid fuel would do even better. Ken

[thataway]

I had a solid fuel "Tiny Tot Stove" on the 38' sailboat we built. The disadvantages were: getting fuel, Stowing fuel, (We used drift wood, downed forrest wood, coal and charcoal.) There were ashes to remove and throwaway, and potential for sparks out the stack. After that experience, we did not bother to consider solid fuels again.

We used a diesel Dickenson on the 62' pilot house sailboat we cruised for 4 years--Calif. to the Med, Baltic and back. Problem was getting heat from one part of the boat to another, so we used fans, some help. Also it was very hot from the stack and. caused wood ceilings to shrink. We put a fan to cool--and move heat around the lower saloon. That was our primary source of heat during a winter in Norfolk VA when the temperature got down to 14*F. Although it was a drip pot burner, there was a pump to get diesel from the main tanks to the burner, and gravity could not be used- No use when under way--longer stack required than just the several inches out of the deck.

We used a "Pro Heat" 45,000 BTU forced draft, fuel injected diesel hydronic truck heater (circulated a liquid through copper pipes and small computer fan driven "radiators" in each cabin)--liquid was easer to pump thru the boat than running ducts, which would have to have been at least 4" and better at 6" throughout the boat. That could be used when underway under power. It was the best, since heated the boat fairly evenly. We could also pipe waste main engine heat through this same system for when we were underway. No back drafting because of forced air-but a lot of electrics: Low pressure fuel pump from the fuel tank, injector high pressure pump, air compressor,
forced draft exhaust,

The equivalent would have been the Eberspacher Espar Airtronic Heater or Wabtsco forced air in the C Dory. Although there are fairly small circulating water heaters, none are small enough.

And the vulnerable Wallas stove/heater running on diesel.

[ssobol]

[Hunkydory]

I for one, sure thought & from experience knew the old Wallas 95 was vulnerable, but the Wallas 85 has over the last 12 years & thousands of operational hours proved itself in all conditions to be extremely reliable for me. How it distributes heat & the slow start up for heat & cooking is a draw back along with the present cost compared to other choices.

Jay.

[Donald Tyson]

I should have explained my reasoning for mentioning "radiant heat". I would be for me. I like to feel the radiating heat on my face and hands as I have Raynaulds Syndrome. So nothing like a fireplace. A water filled radiator would do as well. I thought that some of these stoves mentioned here were available with water jackets so that remote radiators could be run.

I'll get the boat and bring this up again.

[thataway]

The Dickinson Marine Alaska Boat Heater has coils as an option. However these are intended to heat water, not to run thru a radiator. This is a diesel heater. But you would need a circulation pump, and a small radiator, with fan. That gets away from the no electrical part of it. Most of these heaters require a 6 foot stack with charley noble to draw properly. This can be an issue in the small boats.

I also have Raynauds phenomenon, and appreciate the heat issue!