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Advice on anchor line diameter
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breausaw



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, think I need to evaluate my situation a little after reading this thread.
Here’s what my boat came with:
11# Bruce style anchor with 150’ combination chain & 3/8” nylon three strand rode and deck pipe
I don’t know chain length, but will a 11# Bruce style anchor work?
I’ve got strong arms so not really concerned about pulling some weight, what would be the ultimate combination for a 22 without windless?

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2007 22ft C-Dory Triple J 2007-2012
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journey on



Joined: 03 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe,
On your chain/rope splice, how does the junction pass through the gypsy? Does the chain hold in the gypsy slots, or does the rope provide the hold? I'm going to have to resplice Journey On's anchor rode, since it's a bit frayed.

Bob,
While I can't comment on the Delta, the Bruce C-Dory gave me has certainly done well with us. It also is self launching. I would assume that either the Delta or Bruce is a good choice. Both are made in 3rd world countries: Delta in China, Bruce in Brazil. Our CQR (made in Scotland) ploughed in soft mud in Chesapeake Bay and sand, in Rattlesnake Key. No anchor is perfect, darn it.

Jay,
Pulling the anchor up isn't just pulling the anchor up, but having the boat yaw off the anchor in a gust of wind. Even I can (still) lift the weight of the rode and anchor. Also, if the anchor is really buried, breaking it out means that someone has to be at the helm, to use the motor to pull that sucker loose. It's also having to go out on the bow and work from there. In smooth water, no wind , you don't appreciate a windlass. It's when there is surge, wind and you're dancing on the foredeck that the thought of a windlass appears in your mind.

I watched a 30' sailboat take 3 times to get a set that made the owner happy. Each time the guest/crew had to drop the anchor, set it, break it out and reset it. I'd have gone back to the cockpit, got a beer and said: "you go up there and do it until you're happy." However, I had a windlass, so I just watched.

Boris
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surfbird



Joined: 22 Sep 2007
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jay,

FYI, I bought my anchor set up at Arctic Wire and Rope on Arctic. I thought their prices for the 16.5 psedu-Bruce ($70) and the 600' of 1/2 ($175) were reasonable - plus, it is nice to support a local business.


To all,
I used an eye splice through the last link of chain (1/4") following this diagram:
http://www.samsonrope.com/site_files/3S_C1_RopeChain.pdf

I decided on an eyesplice versus a rope thimble and shackle based on a few comments about increased rope wear on a thimble...also, I thought that an eye splice would travel through a windlass or deck pipe much smoother than the thimble/shackle combo.

Any thoughts....?

Jim
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lewmar gives the Claw (Bruce knock off) 11# at 20 to 30 foot boats. I would want a heavier anchor--probably the 16 for a 22. (It is more fluke area, than weight). We have 22 lb Deltas on our Tom Cat and 25 foot C Dory.

As far as the type of anchor, it depends on the type of bottom and area where you boat. I personally have not had good luck with the Bruce. But it is probably the most common anchor in the PNW, and highly respected there. I have anchored several thousand nights--and have had anchors drag only a hand full of times--by changing anchors, with one exception, I was able to successfully anchor. The one exception was in 55 to 65 knots and rocks about 3" in diameter--I don't think that any anchor would have worked in those "ball bearings".

As far as line diameter--if you are fishing or in protected areas, 3/8" line is fine with 3/16" chain--I prefer 7/16 to 1/2" with 1/4" HT chain on the bow for the 25 or TC--same for the C D 22. But, my stern anchors have lines from 1/4" up to 3/8" (however I do carry another couple of hundred feet of back up 1/2" line) During the storms at Lake Powell in Oct, our stern anchors were on doubled 1/4" lines and 5/16" lines. (Why?--because I appreciate the small amount of space and lightness of these lines--but the 1/4" were upgraded to an extra 3/8" stern line--these are short (50 feet) because the go to anchors on the shore, with the boat's stern right at the shoreline.)

My anchors are basically Delta Quick set, Danforth High Tests, Fortress and Northill anchors. I have used the CQR Plow and Fishermen type when long distance cruising usually as the primary anchor).

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Thataway
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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

journey on wrote:
Joe,
On your chain/rope splice, how does the junction pass through the gypsy? Does the chain hold in the gypsy slots, or does the rope provide the hold? I'm going to have to resplice Journey On's anchor rode, since it's a bit frayed.

Boris


Boris-

With two of the three strands going forward and somewhat burried as they are intertwined with the chain, the chain links still stick out and are grasped in the pockets by the gypsy.

This splice passes so much better than the conventional three strand splice-back that I wonder why manufacturer's of ready-made rode combinations don't use it or something similar. (Other folks have developed similar splices.)

But then, I think about their concern for liability issues and realize they''d probably feel better with the conventional splice if they were defending themselves in court. The old way is established tradition and accepted; the new would be advocating a new "unproven" design that might be sticking their neck out in terms of liability.

If you use this splice, just watch it for chafing just like any other splice. My experience with it has been all positive and no problems!

Joe. Teeth

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Hunkydory



Joined: 28 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We started with the 16.5# Bruce and 100 feet of chain. Drug anchor twice in strong wind. Changed to 22# Bruce and 30 feet chain and have never had a problem since. Use the 16.5 Bruce and a small folding Dansforth as backup on extended cruises. Think if your going to go oversize on anything the anchor is the most important. That thought is backed up by the Douglass & Hemingway, Exploring Southeast Alaska, Cruising Guide.

Jay

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breausaw



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

surfbird wrote:
Jay,

FYI, I bought my anchor set up at Arctic Wire and Rope on Arctic. I thought their prices for the 16.5 psedu-Bruce ($70) and the 600' of 1/2 ($175) were reasonable - plus, it is nice to support a local business.


To all,
I used an eye splice through the last link of chain (1/4") following this diagram:
http://www.samsonrope.com/site_files/3S_C1_RopeChain.pdf

I decided on an eyesplice versus a rope thimble and shackle based on a few comments about increased rope wear on a thimble...also, I thought that an eye splice would travel through a windlass or deck pipe much smoother than the thimble/shackle combo.

Any thoughts....?

Jim


Jim,
Thanks for the tip.
I’m surprised your able to get 600’ of ½ stowed up forward, makes my mesally 150’ 3/8 seem inadequate; do you need that much rode?
Guess I'll be upgrading my anchor system before going out, hate being up all night on anchor watch.
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surfbird



Joined: 22 Sep 2007
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 2:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Jay-
The plan is to have 300' forward, most likely in a tub on deck. The remainder will be for a danforth storm anchor.

Also, not sure whether you have been boating in the Sound much, but I just bought A Cruising Guide to PWS and it is full of great information; I highly recommend it. Bought mine at Title Wave.
See you out there.
Jim
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matt_unique



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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 11:37 am    Post subject: Anchoring Reply with quote

surfbird wrote:
Jay,

FYI, I bought my anchor set up at Arctic Wire and Rope on Arctic. I thought their prices for the 16.5 psedu-Bruce ($70) and the 600' of 1/2 ($175) were reasonable - plus, it is nice to support a local business.


To all,
I used an eye splice through the last link of chain (1/4") following this diagram:
http://www.samsonrope.com/site_files/3S_C1_RopeChain.pdf

I decided on an eyesplice versus a rope thimble and shackle based on a few comments about increased rope wear on a thimble...also, I thought that an eye splice would travel through a windlass or deck pipe much smoother than the thimble/shackle combo.

Any thoughts....?

Jim


29 cents a foot is a good price. I just purchased my anchor line yesterday, 275' of 1/2" premium 3-strand nylon at 31 cents a foot. I will be splicing this to 25' of 1/4" high test chain for a 300' rode. I will be connecting this to a 22lb Lewmar Delta Fastset anchor. At West Marine this anchor was $200, I just bought a brand new one from Ebay for $142 delivered. Always nice to save a few bucks when we can!

I found the Samson website the very best resource for splicing, whipping, etc. I looked at several books at West Marine and none offered the detail and pictures of the Samson website. Of course you would not be able to pass a shackle through a windlass so you will be set if you get a windlass.

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Patrout



Joined: 07 Feb 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jim,

That cruising guide by the Lethcoe's is some good book, all right. (Durn, now everyone will find all the little secret spots.) The latest edition is the 1998 one. There is a lot of fairly old information in it.

This couple lives in Valdez and I heard that they are working on a revised edition. That ought to be even better.

Jay,

My 1 1/2 cents worth on the anchor line question. About half of my boating is solo. I don't have a windlass. I do drop the anchor line into the V-berth. When I'm alone, I don't re-stow the line after pulling anchor. I coil it up just in front of the hatch and lay the anchor on top of the rope if it isn't too bumpy out there. When it comes time to drop anchor again, it's really easy to drop the anchor and I don't even have to climb out on the deck. I can do it from the hatch. For stowing at the end of the cruise, the line goes back into the V-berth.

I use an anchor puller and a bouy to get the whole business up and it saves a lot of work. I like to stay off the front deck as much as possible when I don't have anyone to crew for me.

Pat
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dogon dory



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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, Folks - Post Deleted By Author

Last edited by dogon dory on Sat Mar 01, 2008 8:04 pm; edited 1 time in total
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breausaw



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 3:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Anchoring Reply with quote

I found the Samson website the very best resource for splicing, whipping, etc. I looked at several books at West Marine and none offered the detail and pictures of the Samson website. Of course you would not be able to pass a shackle through a windlass so you will be set if you get a windlass.[/quote]

Mat,
My thoughts exactly, it I decide to install a windless my set-up should be compatible with one.

Jim,
Thanks again for the feedback, I plan on getting the PSW cruising book; think I'll run by Title Wave tonight.
Guess it I upgrade my current set-up I could use exiting one for storm anchor..
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Rob & Karen



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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 6:31 pm    Post subject: Anchor Puller & Buoy Method Reply with quote

Can someone explain the terms anchor puller and buoy method? I am not familiar with them but they seem to describe an easier way to retrieve the anchor for those of us without a windlass. Thanks.

Rob
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Sea Wolf



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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 7:07 pm    Post subject: Re: Anchor Puller & Buoy Method Reply with quote

Rob & Karen wrote:
Can someone explain the terms anchor puller and buoy method? I am not familiar with them but they seem to describe an easier way to retrieve the anchor for those of us without a windlass. Thanks.

Rob


Here you go, Rob- complete with diagrams and video- (Look at the third method.)

(***A word of caution, they exxaggerate the cost of a windlass system to be $3000, about three times what it usually costs. Astute shopping and do-it yourself installation can bring the cost down a lot, say $500-$700!)

Anchor Pullers

Or as BC used to say, the best anchor puller is a teenaged son!

Joe. Teeth
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breausaw



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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 7:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Anchor Puller & Buoy Method Reply with quote

Sea Wolf wrote:
Rob & Karen wrote:
Can someone explain the terms anchor puller and buoy method? I am not familiar with them but they seem to describe an easier way to retrieve the anchor for those of us without a windlass. Thanks.

Rob


Here you go, Rob- complete with diagrams and video- (Look at the third method.)

Anchor Pullers

Or as BC used to say, the best anchor puller is a teenaged son!

Joe. Teeth


Sweet! Thumbs Up And can be used for shrimp ports. Cool
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