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1-1/4 10-32 machine screws worked well for all but a few where the glass was thicker. I used the rubber sealing washer to isolate the ss from the alum. on the inside I used fender washer, lock washer, and nut
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inside the vberth
extrusion bolted on
inside. I\'m not going to paint it or anything. seeing the fasteners doesn\'t bother me. I did use an acorn nut in a couple spots where I was worried about wires or cables rubbing on the end of the machine screw
1-1/4 10-32 machine screws worked well for all but a few where the glass was thicker. I used the rubber sealing washer to isolate the ss from the alum. on the inside I used fender washer, lock washer, and nut
I cut little squares from a roll of butyl tape to put where the fasteners go. I was originally going to roll the butyl tape but I felt this would work better. I dont want any water trapped in the rub rail, and I thought that this would allow it to drain. I also am not going to caulk the top or bottom of the rain after its all tightened up.
I started drilling holes at the back of the boat and worked my way to the front. the back has the sharp bend, so I wanted to make sure that it fit good around the bend
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1-1/4 10-32 machine screws worked well for all but a few where the glass was thicker. I used the rubber sealing washer to isolate the ss from the alum. on the inside I used fender washer, lock washer, and nut

1-1/4 10-32 machine screws worked well for all but a few where the glass was thicker. I used the rubber sealing washer to isolate the ss from the alum. on the inside I used fender washer, lock washer, and nut
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Rub rail repair
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a heat gun helps get it started
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clayhubler
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