This is the Rustoleum paint that I used. I sprayed my spare prop to see how close it was to the C Dory gel coat color.

This is the Rustoleum paint that I used. I sprayed my spare prop to see how close it was to the C Dory gel coat color.

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This is the stick-on conduit I used.

This is the stick-on conduit I used.

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A close up of the wiring. I'm putting all of my wiring in this stuff. Much faster and cheaper than driving little stainless screws into the boat and much nicer looking than black smurf tubing.

A close up of the wiring. I'm putting all of my wiring in this stuff. Much faster and cheaper than driving little stainless screws into the boat and much nicer looking than black smurf tubing.

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Here is the wiring placed in cream colored conduit running right up the side of the window. I used this on the transom to cover the depth sounder cable and thought I would try it here.

Here is the wiring placed in cream colored conduit running right up the side of the window. I used this on the transom to cover the depth sounder cable and thought I would try it here.

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Once dry, it gets sprayed with an off white paint that is fairly close to the gel coat color. The surface of the rubber paint would attract too much dirt. Notice the black conduit hanging down. Black wiring was strung all around the boat. I can fix that.

Once dry, it gets sprayed with an off white paint that is fairly close to the gel coat color. The surface of the rubber paint would attract too much dirt. Notice the black conduit hanging down. Black wiring was strung all around the boat. I can fix that.

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Even the roof of the cabin gets a layer.

Even the roof of the cabin gets a layer.

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I used my shop vac to blow warm air in. I left it on over night because I had sprayed so much material (about 3 gallons).

I used my shop vac to blow warm air in. I left it on over night because I had sprayed so much material (about 3 gallons).

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Time to cover up my new seat.

Time to cover up my new seat.

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I am concentrating mostly on the V berth area for noise and condensation abatement. Two coats was enough so that I could no longer see the roving in the fiberglass layup. I put on four coats in the V berth and two in the cabin.

I am concentrating mostly on the V berth area for noise and condensation abatement. Two coats was enough so that I could no longer see the roving in the fiberglass layup. I put on four coats in the V berth and two in the cabin.

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Here I have applied some with an undercoating spray gun.

Here I have applied some with an undercoating spray gun.

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This is my home-brew insulating paint. It is some leftover latex water proofing paint used on concrete block prior to applying a stucco finish. It dries thick and to a consistency about like a pencil eraser. I'm adding micro balloons to it (the secret ingredient).

This is my home-brew insulating paint. It is some leftover latex water proofing paint used on concrete block prior to applying a stucco finish. It dries thick and to a consistency about like a pencil eraser. I'm adding micro balloons to it (the secret ingredient).

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It is then taped over the fittings. The foam expands, insulating the fittings and keeping them from dripping condensation. This is the bow roller and you can just see the thru deck block before the hawse pipe was installed.

It is then taped over the fittings. The foam expands, insulating the fittings and keeping them from dripping condensation. This is the bow roller and you can just see the thru deck block before the hawse pipe was installed.

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Here is how the through hull metal fasteners were insulated. Foam was shot into a plastic jar lid.

Here is how the through hull metal fasteners were insulated. Foam was shot into a plastic jar lid.

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M

This is my home-brew insulating paint. It is some leftover latex water proofing paint used on concrete block prior to applying a stucco finish. It dries thick and to a consistency about like a pencil eraser. I'm adding micro balloons to it (the secret ingredient).

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Insulating Coating
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Marco Flamingo
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