The heater control isn't a thermostat. The thermostat is actually in the return airflow to the furnace. Inside of the new pocket shelf is the "cold air return" that will determine the heat setting. The little controller is supposed to allow settings between about 45 degrees and 90 degrees, but you don't get to see actual temperature numbers.

The heater control isn't a thermostat. The thermostat is actually in the return airflow to the furnace. Inside of the new pocket shelf is the "cold air return" that will determine the heat setting. The little controller is supposed to allow settings between about 45 degrees and 90 degrees, but you don't get to see actual temperature numbers.

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The heater outlet blows mostly into the V berth. I was hoping that it would be directional enough to point it towards the wind screen, but not quite. The heater control is easy to turn on, watch, and adjust without leaving the helm (or the V berth in the morning).

The heater outlet blows mostly into the V berth. I was hoping that it would be directional enough to point it towards the wind screen, but not quite. The heater control is easy to turn on, watch, and adjust without leaving the helm (or the V berth in the morning).

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Here is the completed project all closed up. The big access panel is for the heater. The new cubby hole helped routing the heating duct and now provides storage. Two batteries and the kerosene (or diesel) tank are under the passenger seat. The only evidence of the heater is the thermostat just forward of the cubby hole and just barely visible in front of that is the heat register (outlet) that blows warm air primarily into the V berth.

Here is the completed project all closed up. The big access panel is for the heater. The new cubby hole helped routing the heating duct and now provides storage. Two batteries and the kerosene (or diesel) tank are under the passenger seat. The only evidence of the heater is the thermostat just forward of the cubby hole and just barely visible in front of that is the heat register (outlet) that blows warm air primarily into the V berth.

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The dosing pump is now integrated to the fuel cap. I have everything in a temporary position to allow me to test the heater. This is the point were I wonder if the whole idea was crazy. After some fine tuning, it worked and puts out a lot of heat, then settles down to a purr.

The dosing pump is now integrated to the fuel cap. I have everything in a temporary position to allow me to test the heater. This is the point were I wonder if the whole idea was crazy. After some fine tuning, it worked and puts out a lot of heat, then settles down to a purr.

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I bought a 2 gallon tank that I was hoping would fit under the seat box. Not quite. I would have had to make some changes to the box that I wasn't willing to do, and I didn't want the tank sitting out where it is now. The $75 tank goes back on Ebay. The $15 blue tank wins the day.

I bought a 2 gallon tank that I was hoping would fit under the seat box. Not quite. I would have had to make some changes to the box that I wasn't willing to do, and I didn't want the tank sitting out where it is now. The $75 tank goes back on Ebay. The $15 blue tank wins the day.

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I bought two replacement caps for the kerosene can. One to be modified to fit the Espar tank pickup and the other in case I needed to make a shore run for kerosene or diesel for the heater. It turns out that I only used one gallon the first year, so refilling isn't a worry.

I bought two replacement caps for the kerosene can. One to be modified to fit the Espar tank pickup and the other in case I needed to make a shore run for kerosene or diesel for the heater. It turns out that I only used one gallon the first year, so refilling isn't a worry.

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Putting the house and starter batteries under the passenger seat leaves just enough room for my 2 gallon kerosene tank.

Putting the house and starter batteries under the passenger seat leaves just enough room for my 2 gallon kerosene tank.

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A little shelf made out of Azek allows them to sit side-by-side under the seat box.

A little shelf made out of Azek allows them to sit side-by-side under the seat box.

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The house and starter battery were moved from under the splash well to the passenger side seat box to improve the trim of the boat. The batteries have Anderson connectors to allow them to be unplugged and removed.

The house and starter battery were moved from under the splash well to the passenger side seat box to improve the trim of the boat. The batteries have Anderson connectors to allow them to be unplugged and removed.

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The cables and wires are now in a flexible tube that runs above the hatch, leaving enough storage room for fishing poles and a boat hook. The hatches lock, so it is the only secure area on a CD16.

The cables and wires are now in a flexible tube that runs above the hatch, leaving enough storage room for fishing poles and a boat hook. The hatches lock, so it is the only secure area on a CD16.

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Here are the cables and wires in a flexible tube. The flexible pipe will allow me to put it in a position to maximize the usable space created by my new hatch. You can see that all of the seat box pop rivet holes have been drilled out and are ready for the epoxy fill.

Here are the cables and wires in a flexible tube. The flexible pipe will allow me to put it in a position to maximize the usable space created by my new hatch. You can see that all of the seat box pop rivet holes have been drilled out and are ready for the epoxy fill.

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Here is the "finished" install of the heater. The flexible exhaust pipe and muffler have fiber glass lagging over the entire length. The intake pipes for the burner air and heated air have filters and sound baffles. The kerosene tank, fuel pump, and thermostat are not installed yet. That can not happen until my battery relocation is complete.

Here is the "finished" install of the heater. The flexible exhaust pipe and muffler have fiber glass lagging over the entire length. The intake pipes for the burner air and heated air have filters and sound baffles. The kerosene tank, fuel pump, and thermostat are not installed yet. That can not happen until my battery relocation is complete.

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Here is the exhaust fitting with a little butyl showing. I used high temp silicon for most of the sealing, but butyl for the screws. Probably should have used the high temp for the whole thing. It's using the old bilge pump hole.

Here is the exhaust fitting with a little butyl showing. I used high temp silicon for most of the sealing, but butyl for the screws. Probably should have used the high temp for the whole thing. It's using the old bilge pump hole.

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This shows why the stainless steel muffler would leak exhaust fumes if used inside. Apparently, it is for use underneath a vehicle.

This shows why the stainless steel muffler would leak exhaust fumes if used inside. Apparently, it is for use underneath a vehicle.

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I also bought an exhaust through hull with a 45 degree bend. That allows me to point it up to keep rain and spray out of the exhaust pipe.

I also bought an exhaust through hull with a 45 degree bend. That allows me to point it up to keep rain and spray out of the exhaust pipe.

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I bought a stainless muffler only to find out that it is not for inhabited space. It is spot welded and not airtight, so it will not work for my application. I made one out of some scrap copper plumbing pipe. It is a glass pack style of muffler.

I bought a stainless muffler only to find out that it is not for inhabited space. It is spot welded and not airtight, so it will not work for my application. I made one out of some scrap copper plumbing pipe. It is a glass pack style of muffler.

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I also put an access hatch on the other side. Once the engine cables (inside the 4" plastic pipe) are moved out of the way, there should actually be some usable space in here. The new access hatches were installed level with the cockpit deck rather than even with the cockpit trim. That way when they are opened the entire length of the hatch is supported evenly by the cockpit deck, as shown here. Protecting the plastic hinges seemed more important than aesthetics.

I also put an access hatch on the other side. Once the engine cables (inside the 4" plastic pipe) are moved out of the way, there should actually be some usable space in here. The new access hatches were installed level with the cockpit deck rather than even with the cockpit trim. That way when they are opened the entire length of the hatch is supported evenly by the cockpit deck, as shown here. Protecting the plastic hinges seemed more important than aesthetics.

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This new hatch is the proposed location for an Espar D2 Diesel heater. The heater is a little smaller than a football, but on a CD 16 even that amount of room is hard to find. It appeared that an access hatch in the cockpit panel would provide enough room. These hatches were available in "Seafoam," a color that some websites said was discontinued. It matches pretty good.

This new hatch is the proposed location for an Espar D2 Diesel heater. The heater is a little smaller than a football, but on a CD 16 even that amount of room is hard to find. It appeared that an access hatch in the cockpit panel would provide enough room. These hatches were available in "Seafoam," a color that some websites said was discontinued. It matches pretty good.

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Here it is positioned to see if it will fit. The hot exhaust will run out the back using what was the bilge pump opening (and a new special purpose fitting). The bilge through-hull will be moved to starboard.

Here it is positioned to see if it will fit. The hot exhaust will run out the back using what was the bilge pump opening (and a new special purpose fitting). The bilge through-hull will be moved to starboard.

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This new hatch is the proposed location for an Espar D2 Diesel heater. The heater is a little smaller than a football, but on a CD 16 even that amount of room is hard to find. It appeared that an access hatch in the cockpit panel would provide enough room. These hatches were available in "Seafoam," a color that some websites said was discontinued. It matches pretty good.

Espar D2 heater install
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