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Then I made a bracket out of 1.5 inch aluminum angle to secure the bitter end of the rode. It's secured to the bow eye bolts and the rode is spliced to the bracket.
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I made a cover to fill the opening to the anchor locker in hopes of keeping water off the V-berth cushions when hauling in the rode/chain with the windlass. The cleat on the back hangs over the existing fiberglass bulkhead that forms the locker. With 2 coats of epoxy covering the back water "should" just shed right off into the bottom of the locker.
Gemlux clamshell cover covering the anchor locker drain hole.
Here's the switch I installed to kill the circuit to the windlass. When not using the windlass the switch will be in the OFF position so we can't accidently release the anchor while underway.
Then I made a bracket out of 1.5 inch aluminum angle to secure the bitter end of the rode. It's secured to the bow eye bolts and the rode is spliced to the bracket.
Drilled the anchor locker drain hole. I used the magnet trick to locate the spot where the hole would be drilled. final hole size is 1/2 inch.
Decided to go ahead and go with this location for the switch. Per the advise of some C-Brats, I have another 50 amp breaker on order that will get mounted on the lower bulkhead. This will be used to kill the circuit when the windlass is not being used so there are no accidental anchor releases.
It Works! Yay!! 200 feet of 1/2 inch 3 strand rode and 40 feet of new chain. I actually managed to splice the rode without having to watch a YouTube video again. Bonus Points!
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Then I made a bracket out of 1.5 inch aluminum angle to secure the bitter end of the rode. It's secured to the bow eye bolts and the rode is spliced to the bracket.

Then I made a bracket out of 1.5 inch aluminum angle to secure the bitter end of the rode. It's secured to the bow eye bolts and the rode is spliced to the bracket.
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Lewmar Windlass Install
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Starting working the foredeck for my windlass install. We bought the Lewmar 700 Pro Fish.
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Desert Dory
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