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There seems to be some interest in the remote switch so... First I sealed the old hause hole slot. I used trailer wiring and connectors, female here to contactor. The switch simply parallels the panel switch; middle-common to fused +12volts, up to up, down to down on the contactor.
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I would have preferred to use this port to add a second rode, but, alas, no room in the anchor locker. I water proofed the port and added a connector for the remote anchor control and for 12v charge from the tow vehicle.
The trailer connectors certainly aren't rust proof, but are sealed, and made for the weather and as I keep them WD40ed, and stored inside the boat, they have worked well. Probably will never need a spare, but they were cheap and easy to make, so...
Switches (Lowes) are 3 way momentary (spring loaded). The pvc remnants and dowels I already had. Everything slides together and is sealed with 5200.
There seems to be some interest in the remote switch so... First I sealed the old hause hole slot. I used trailer wiring and connectors, female here to contactor. The switch simply parallels the panel switch; middle-common to fused +12volts, up to up, down to down on the contactor.
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There seems to be some interest in the remote switch so... First I sealed the old hause hole slot. I used trailer wiring and connectors, female here to contactor. The switch simply parallels the panel switch; middle-common to fused +12volts, up to up, down to down on the contactor.

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There seems to be some interest in the remote switch so... First I sealed the old hause hole slot. I used trailer wiring and connectors, female here to contactor. The switch simply parallels the panel switch; middle-common to fused +12volts, up to up, down to down on the contactor.
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Deck Windless
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Installed windless. Old hinged deck access port was waterproofed and connector was added so that remote up/down controller (fabricated from pvc and three position switch) could be wired in. Cheap, easy option that works great.
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