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Excellent. Now that the circuit diagram is drawn up, and everybody's on the same page, we can try to noodle through what might be happening to pop that 30A fuse in the SafetyHub. So far, I don't have a good theory, but I'll sleep on it and maybe something will come to me. (The ACR is certainly...

OK - Here's an updated drawing. I hope it helps clear up how the switch works. (And I added the HPU.) Basically, when you turn the switch to the 'ON' position, both the start and the house circuits close, and both circuits become hot. The house battery connects to the house side, and the...

Sorry this took so long. (Sometimes life overrides good intentions.) But, I'm glad to hear you may have found the problem. Anyway, I did finally get a chance to draw up (what I think is) your wiring schematic. Before I make any comments/statements, let me know if I got everything drawn up...

I've been busy and haven't had time to work my way through the narrative and build a schematic yet... Should be able to get to it tonight. 8)

Thanks for taking the time to write all that up. I'm pretty sure I could follow everything. I'm gonna go make myself a couple of sketches, and stare at 'em for a bit...

Sunbeam, I've been looking at the electrical pictures you have in your album, and I'm thoroughly confused. Lots of questions here... With the possible exception of the ground wire, the ACR should be connected directly to the batteries - and only the batteries. Is your ACR connected to the...

Definitely puzzling... I'm going to have to ponder these last few failures for a bit.

While it's certainly disappointing that the new 12V outlet didn't solve the problem, at least you can now rule it out with a pretty high level of confidence. So, of course, the next step is it to check out the main house feed. Hopefully you won't run out of 'spare' fuses before you get this...

That's a great clarification Bob, and I agree completely. But, I would add one caveat... Regardless of the rated power draw of the attached systems, fuses should always be properly sized to protect the wire - and never, never above that. You can always use a smaller fuse if the system draw is...

It's my understanding that there are other circuits wired directly to Sunbeam's SafetyHub 100 in addition to the main house circuit. So, using only a single breaker at the battery would have meant running those other circuits from the helm, adding additional load to the main 10ga house circuit...

Sunbeam - It sounds like you've got a pretty good handle on your electrical situations at this point. That's good to hear. In regard to upgrading your existing 10ga house feed, AstoriaDave has a good suggestion. There are two basic scenarios to consider. Scenario #1) Remove 10ga wire and...

OK, Sunbeam (and others following this thread)... I've got a correction to make to my earlier posts regarding wire/fuse size amperage limits. (I DID say I was digging those numbers out of my memory... :oops: ) According to this wire/fuse sizing chart available on the BlueSeas website, 10ga wire...

Sorry for the confusion, Sunbeam. Let's see if I can clear things up a bit... Your 30A fuse protects the main wire that runs from the SafetyHub, up to the fuse/distribution block at helm. And, if both legs of that circuit are made up of 10ga wire (both the positive, and the ground wire), the...

Not so. Those circuits are FUSED for 15 and 20 amps. They should never draw anywhere near that much unless there's a problem with those components, which would then blow those fuses before they blow the larger main fuse. However, I do agree that a 30 amp main fuse may be undersized for the...

Regarding the size of the main fuse, it may - or may not - be undersized. Just remember... fuses are there to protect the wire. If needed, electronics or other components will have dedicated fuses in - or very near - the unit itself. As such, trunk and branch circuit fuses should be sized...

Well, if it wasn't the 12V outlet, you'll find out soon enough. :shock: But... since it was the only non-fused load running through the main fuse, I'd bet dollars to doughnuts that it's either a ground fault in that 12V outlet, or the main house feed is shorted to ground. (My money's on the...

You should be fine running your basic navigation circuits off of the temporary 20A fuse. (Good workaround, by the way. :thup) I would suggest putting a piece of tape over any switches that run the big power draw circuits (trim tabs, auto pilot, etc.) so that you don't use those systems out of...

First: The 30A fuse is there to protect the wire from an overload scenario that could cause a fire. Please don't consider bypassing that fuse because it's blowing. There's definitely a problem here that needs fixed, and bypassing the fuse could be catastrophic. Second: With the electrical loads...

Nope. That's a Honda on the skiff in front. In fact, it's the same skiff with the Honda on it from the other video.

Hmmm... I wonder what the outcome would have been if the Honda had been properly trimmed? Seems to me that it was using a big chunk of it's power to make a giant rooster tail instead of actually pushing the boat. :wink