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    Best Material for C-Dory Cover

    You might consider making a cover from a used billboard tarp. I got one to cover my trailer while I'm working on the boat. It’s heavy material and works great for rain, snow, and nuclear pollen fallout. Mine has been on my trailer for two years and is holding up well. You can search online for...
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    new DC/DC battery charger from Victron Energy

    I don't have a motor yet, but it likely will be a Honda or Merc 115hp. (I really like the Merc, but the Honda delivers more charging current.) That, and Li batteries, will be the last thing I buy when my restoration is near complete. Whatever it is, it won't be able to take advantage of the XS's...
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    new DC/DC battery charger from Victron Energy

    Victron Energy is now shipping the Orion XS DC/DC battery charger - I got mine in the mail today. Designed with Li batteries in mind, compared to the Orion-Tr Smart, it is... 1) Smaller 2) Runs cooler and requires no heatsink 3) Although it can provide 50A to a Li battery, it can be...
  4. charger

    charger

    charger
  5. Here the o-ring material is being inserted (friction fit) into the channel. The o-ring material is .250" Buna-N 70 O-Ring Cord Stock, from theoringstore.com. The glue is Vibra-Tite 388 Super Glue (specifically for gluing rubber) from Amazon. I used the chisel to make clean out the channel and ensure it was fit to hold the o-ring. The reinforced area (extra later of fiberglass) alongside the long side of the lid is where two latches will be installed. Next up - build the lockers!

    Here the o-ring material is being inserted (friction fit) into the channel. The o-ring material is .250" Buna-N 70 O-Ring Cord Stock, from theoringstore.com. The glue is Vibra-Tite 388 Super Glue (specifically for gluing rubber) from Amazon. I used the chisel to make clean out the channel and ensure it was fit to hold the o-ring. The reinforced area (extra later of fiberglass) alongside the long side of the lid is where two latches will be installed. Next up - build the lockers!

    Here the o-ring material is being inserted (friction fit) into the channel. The o-ring material is .250" Buna-N 70 O-Ring Cord Stock, from theoringstore.com. The glue is Vibra-Tite 388 Super Glue (specifically for gluing rubber) from Amazon. I used the chisel to make clean out the channel and...
  6. Here the mold has been layed up with fiberglass, the o-ring channel has been inserted, and a strip of stainless steel has been inserted as backing for hinges. Also note that the whole assembly is resting in a box. This was done so that a jig could be clamped to the top edges of the box. This jig has strips of MDF on it that were tied directly to the o-ring channel with monofilament line, to ensure the the o-ring channel was positioned exactly flat, with respect to the top of the lid. The monofilament line was then simply cut to remove the jig once the epoxy was cured. Sorry I neglected to photograph this step.

    Here the mold has been layed up with fiberglass, the o-ring channel has been inserted, and a strip of stainless steel has been inserted as backing for hinges. Also note that the whole assembly is resting in a box. This was done so that a jig could be clamped to the top edges of the box. This jig has strips of MDF on it that were tied directly to the o-ring channel with monofilament line, to ensure the the o-ring channel was positioned exactly flat, with respect to the top of the lid. The monofilament line was then simply cut to remove the jig once the epoxy was cured. Sorry I neglected to photograph this step.

    Here the mold has been layed up with fiberglass, the o-ring channel has been inserted, and a strip of stainless steel has been inserted as backing for hinges. Also note that the whole assembly is resting in a box. This was done so that a jig could be clamped to the top edges of the box. This jig...
  7. The mold for the port lid top is ready for laying up with 1708 and epoxy. There are several 1/2" holes in the bottom of this mold which are filled with wax. This gives a means to tap on the back of the mold with a 1/2" dowel to help pop the part free.

    The mold for the port lid top is ready for laying up with 1708 and epoxy. There are several 1/2" holes in the bottom of this mold which are filled with wax. This gives a means to tap on the back of the mold with a 1/2" dowel to help pop the part free.

    The mold for the port lid top is ready for laying up with 1708 and epoxy. There are several 1/2" holes in the bottom of this mold which are filled with wax. This gives a means to tap on the back of the mold with a 1/2" dowel to help pop the part free.
  8. After three dyas of curing I sanded the top of the channel smooth. I had pre-drilled small holes under the edges of the channel, on on each of the five sides, and filled them with wax. This allowed me to insert the flat end of a drill bit and tap on theh channel to help pop it from the mold.

    After three dyas of curing I sanded the top of the channel smooth. I had pre-drilled small holes under the edges of the channel, on on each of the five sides, and filled them with wax. This allowed me to insert the flat end of a drill bit and tap on theh channel to help pop it from the mold.

    After three dyas of curing I sanded the top of the channel smooth. I had pre-drilled small holes under the edges of the channel, on on each of the five sides, and filled them with wax. This allowed me to insert the flat end of a drill bit and tap on theh channel to help pop it from the mold.
  9. One day later I used a multitool to remove most of the excess epoxy.

    One day later I used a multitool to remove most of the excess epoxy.

    One day later I used a multitool to remove most of the excess epoxy.
  10. Epoxy is poured and curing.

    Epoxy is poured and curing.

    Epoxy is poured and curing.
  11. Here the three molds for the port channel are in place and screwed down to the plywood base.

    Here the three molds for the port channel are in place and screwed down to the plywood base.

    Here the three molds for the port channel are in place and screwed down to the plywood base.
  12. I then glued 1/4" wide MDF strips to a base of flat plywood. This will be the "opening" that holds the 1/4" o-ring.

    I then glued 1/4" wide MDF strips to a base of flat plywood. This will be the "opening" that holds the 1/4" o-ring.

    I then glued 1/4" wide MDF strips to a base of flat plywood. This will be the "opening" that holds the 1/4" o-ring.
  13. Although I had a CAD design for the channel, I decided to not use it and trace off the rim of the lid base instead, to compensate for any way in which the finished base deviated from the CAD design, since proper fit would be critical.

    Although I had a CAD design for the channel, I decided to not use it and trace off the rim of the lid base instead, to compensate for any way in which the finished base deviated from the CAD design, since proper fit would be critical.

    Although I had a CAD design for the channel, I decided to not use it and trace off the rim of the lid base instead, to compensate for any way in which the finished base deviated from the CAD design, since proper fit would be critical.
  14. Once I knew space could be made to hold everything. I jumped ahead to the most difficult part of the project - building a gas-tight hatch closure. I wanted to do this first because if it proved not doable then I would go back to plan B which was to use smaller propane bottles and a smaller off-the-shelf sealed hatch, like the newer 22s have.I designed the locker lids on a CAD system. Each lid (port and starboard) was built as three separate components. The lid top and the o-ring channelwere then epoxied together. The lid base will be fiberglassed into the top of the hatch and the top will be secured with hinges and latches.

    Once I knew space could be made to hold everything. I jumped ahead to the most difficult part of the project - building a gas-tight hatch closure. I wanted to do this first because if it proved not doable then I would go back to plan B which was to use smaller propane bottles and a smaller off-the-shelf sealed hatch, like the newer 22s have.I designed the locker lids on a CAD system. Each lid (port and starboard) was built as three separate components. The lid top and the o-ring channelwere then epoxied together. The lid base will be fiberglassed into the top of the hatch and the top will be secured with hinges and latches.

    Once I knew space could be made to hold everything. I jumped ahead to the most difficult part of the project - building a gas-tight hatch closure. I wanted to do this first because if it proved not doable then I would go back to plan B which was to use smaller propane bottles and a smaller...
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    horns and hailers

    They're the FIAMM 72112 Freeway Blaster LOW Note Horn and the FIAMM 72102 Freeway Blaster HIGH Note Horn. You'll need to add a relay of course. Yes, they're plastic, but I'll mount them under the brow to shield from UV. My experience with these has been very favorable...
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    horns and hailers

    Thanks all! Based on everyone's suggestions I ordered the ICOM 40W hailer/speaker ($67 on Amazon) so I can have the ability to hail should I feel the need, and hopefully the fog horn feature from the ICOM VHF wil be adequate when played though the speaker. I also want to be able to quickly hit...
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    horns and hailers

    My only experience with a boat horn is with one of those little handheld air horns which we carried in our 16' Skagit and never used. Now I'm in the process of restoring a 22' C-Dory and am trying to decide if I want a fog/hailer speaker or horn or both. I've purchased an ICOM IC-510BB VHF that...
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    Enclosing Anchor Locker in 22 Cruiser

    I'm in the process of enclosing my anchor locker with a hatch. See my album entitled Anchor Locker for the only photo I have so far. My boat work is on hold for another month while I tend to other projects, but the photo should give you a general idea of what I'm doing. I cut a frame out of 1/8"...
  19. The green TotalBoat fairing compund looks ugly now, but it wil be fine when all is painted. This modification was made so that a Tempress 1323 cam latch hatch can be installed to close off the anchor locker.

    The green TotalBoat fairing compund looks ugly now, but it wil be fine when all is painted. This modification was made so that a Tempress 1323 cam latch hatch can be installed to close off the anchor locker.

    The green TotalBoat fairing compund looks ugly now, but it wil be fine when all is painted. This modification was made so that a Tempress 1323 cam latch hatch can be installed to close off the anchor locker.
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