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I hear there was a shop somewhere north of Seattle called "King Marine Canvas" that had patterns. Is it better to go with someone who has a pattern than just a full custom job somewhere else?

thanks for all the help guys.. I will ponder whether to DIY or not..!

On a 16' cruiser, I lost the slant-back cockpit cover. I am wondering how to replace this? And even if someone has a "pattern", what about the button locations? The male stud part of the buttons from the previous cover are already installed on the boat, so how would the mating socket buttons...

Does anymore have experience ordering Honda Outboards parts from https://www.hondapartshouse.com ? If so, are they reliable/trustworthy?

Jay, Thank you. As it turns out, you've helped.. because if you hadn't replied to my post in the first place, I would not have asked this question to the guys at Atlantic Marine. So by putting our heads together here on the board and contributing from our experiences, we eventually get this...

Hi HunkyDory, The guys at Atlantic Marine confirmed that these design changes preventing them from fitting the older motors happened in 2008, but they said the fitment changes were on the BF75's 90's, 115's... But NOT on the BF40's and BF50's. They said they swap newer units onto older 40/50...

Thank you. I called them and they were significantly more helpful that some of the local dealers in my area! I would also highly recommend them!

Would this fit the back of a 1998 22' Angler?

Cool, thanks for laying that out.. I think I prefer "SL". On my Jeep I once tried load range E tires in place of load range C, and I could feel the difference.. a less comfortable ride!

I'm getting new all-terrian tires for my tow vehicle (FJ Cruiser), for hauling my 22Angler. They are available in load range SL (Standard load) or load range C or E.. If I wasn't towing, I'd go with the SL's as they are lighter and give a smoother ride, better braking, etc. Is it recommended...

Ah, thanks... Good to know. That leaves me thinking my best options are: (1) reconditioned or new (2) a used one (preferably closer to 2008) (3) a used one from freshwater

For example, here is a diagram of one with the two bolts. But I don't know: (a) what year did the design change (b) Are these two-bolt models a bolt-on for my motor (1998) (c) What does the "D" in BF40D stand for? https://yumbo-jp.com/en/catalog/outboar ... SHAFT.html

Yes, thanks for that reminder! About the "bolts", let me refine my question... what I am wondering is: if there is an updated design on later models that replaces the internally threaded bearing retainer nut (with two bolts).. Because if so, I'd want to get one of those lower units? Anyone know?

OK, next big question... Did they improve on this design in later models that I can swap in and bolt directly to the top half of my motor? I talked to a guy at shop that services Honda's, and he kept referring to the "two bolts" that hold in this parts of the gear case in place. When I'd...

Thank you Bob, very informative! Yes, I will do the salt away treatment, as you recommend.

Thank you. I (reluctantly) agree! Can you recommend shops that might have these units? I called the two Honda dealers closest to Seattle, and neither of them were any help.

Yes, thanks for this reply. I agree...

Freshwater vs Saltwater question.. I also plan to only run it in Freshwater (such as Lake Powell) for the foreseeable future. (it used to spend 2-3 weeks per year in Puget Sound).. Is it safe to say the "corrosion-expansion" that caused the crack will halt as long as it's not exposed to...

So the crack has not made it to the gearcase oil cavity. I could: - Drill a hole at the end of the crack to prevent further propagation... - Grind the crack open a bit to expose more surface area for bonding - JB weld the crack - Then I'd like to put some kind of Stainless Steel bank around the...

Thanks Bob