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1989 16-foot Angler (SOLD)

If your controls don't have the "throttle button" on the side with a key-push actuated choke solenoid, but instead has a choke/fast idle lever, the manual says to lift the lever fully when starting. Then, after it starts lower the lever to a position that the engine doesn't stall while it warms...

Sounds like a splice issue, or a rode stacking issue. We run 25' of chain and 275' of 8-plait. Occasionally, our Lewmar 700 hangs at the splice. When that happens, it's typically solved by letting a bit of rode out, and re-retrieving (it may take a coupe of tries to get the splice to pass)...

That quick formula works for most sailing hulls. For most powerboats, a similar formula would be [height X width X 0.67 X length / 100 = GRT]. Using your rough dimensions, that would calculate to 3 x 8 x 0.67 x 22 /100 = 3.54 tons. That's pretty close to what Bob calculated for the hull of his...

If the deckhouse structure volume doesn't exceed the hull volume, it doesn't count (at least in the simplified measurement for the gross tonnage calculation). Further, the calculated gross tonnage is truncated. So, using the info you provided in your post, your documented 22 has a GRT of 3, and...

One thing I find curious in all this... This is the year 2020. Why do we have to educate the masses about how important personal hygiene is? Seriously, people have to be told to wash their hands regularly? ... cover their cough? ... avoid contact with others if they're sick? I mean, that's...

One of the best diagnostic tools for possible fuel related problems is a portable fuel tank with independent fuel line. Unclip the fuel line at the motor and hook up the portable tank, full of new fuel (don't forget to open the vent on the portable tank). If the problem persists, it's...

It's nice to hear that the Marinaut 255 may get another shot at production. It looked like a fantastic boat, and I really like the layout shown in those original line drawings. Before the plans to build it were scuttled, it was on top of my very short list of dream boats, and I was pretty sure...

In all this discussion, I haven't seen an answer to the most important question... Which is better... moderately sized twin guns, or a big main gun with a smaller 'kicker' for backup? :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

It certainly may be a bad pump. But if you suspect fuel gelling is the cause of the problem, try warming the pump and the fuel line to the burner with a hair dryer set on low (NOT a heat gun), and then run it while it's still warm. That should re-liquefy any gelled fuel and allow it to flow...

My Cape Cruiser Marinaut 26 came with a Mermaid A/C unit that I removed and replaced with a heater. (I bought the boat in Florida and had it delivered it to Alaska.) It worked amazingly well when we sea trialed it in FLA. It was mounted in the locker aft of the dinette, so I'm not sure if there...

I don't know anything about Tomcat motor brackets... or Tomcats in general. Lol. But... there shouldn't be any way for water to get in under the motor cowling. How much water are you getting? I'd look at the rubber tell-tale tube to make sure it's not cracked. Other than that... I really have no...

Be sure to repair all that pierced insulation, or you'll be replacing corroded wiring in the not-too-distant future.

I concur ... that Bed-It butyl tape is great stuff.

PM sent...

It's possible that salt deposits are constricting flow or even blocking water passages. Do you flush regularly with Salt Away or a similar product?

I'd propose that it the procedure of choice is less important than actually getting it done. Letting your hydraulic oil get nasty like I did isn't exactly doing the system any favors.

Instead of trying to balance a quart bottle of hydraulic fluid with a pinhole in it to let the oil flow as described by Seastar (that just seems like a mess waiting to happen), I made an adapter for a funnel out of a brass hose fitting that screws into the helm, a short length of stiff fuel...

In that case, you would be asking the person behind the counter for hydraulic fluid that meets mil spec H-5606C, as Thataway posted.

FYI: Both the Seastar and the Baystar installation manuals say to "Check hydraulic oil for cleanliness, flush if required" every 200 hours or 12 months, whichever comes first.