2003 C-Dory 22 replacement railing

[pierrelesperance]

I need to replace the port side aluminum rail and rub rail on 22' C-Dory.

23'4'' Length
1 1/2 " Width
Black Insert is 5/8"Thick x
7/8 "Width
3/4 inch Track

I would welcome any suggestion where I can source this?

 

[Sunbeam]

Hello Pierre,

Since my 22 is a 2002 and yours is a 2003, there is a good chance they use the same rail and insert (actually I think it was used over a period of many years).

That said, I can't help you for sure on the metal rail, as I remember looking at mine and seeing that it was different than the ones I saw available - something about one of the edges, but I can't remember the details now and am not at the boat. That's not to say it's not available, but just that I didn't see it. Or maybe it was one of the stock ones I saw but C-Dory customized it slightly. I wish I could remember better at the moment.

However I did find the black insert, I'm pretty sure. Mine did not need replacing, but if it ever does, this one seems to match the measurements and shape exactly:



You can see more details of how it looks and is attached starting here, where I wrote up a repair on mine:

http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?p=267126#267126

Other Brats have also written up good repair reports - I got some of my ideas from them (thank you to those who went before!).

 

[thataway]

I would check Taco Marine. I believe that they manufactured the rail extrusion:

http://tacomarine.com/category/cat2_alu ... ble-Insert Take the dimensions.

If you have to replace the vinyl, originally it was one piece. You may get away with a "splice"-really a butt joint. Be be very careful where you place it--and if you do, put black adhesive under the two ends in proximity, so they will not move with expansion and contraction, and blows to the other part of railing.

 

[Sunbeam]

Looking at the Taco metal rails in the link Thataway posted reminded me of what the difference is. You can see how those are flat on one edge (top in illustration), but then on the other (bottom) have a little metal "hook" shape to them? Well on my C-Dory, both edges are the same, and neither has the "hook" protrusion. The boat is "flat" in that area because the hull-deck joint is a butt joint. I am not sure if that means it was a different piece altogether, or if C-Dory may have customized it by removing the hook.

Here is one of the rail profiles from the link. They all have some "hook" but I chose this one to copy over from the linked page because it has the 5/8" opening, which seems to match the rubber profile that is the same as the one on my boat (of course double check any of this against your own boat).

 

[thataway]

In the past Taco made the same railing as used on the C Dory--I believe that they can either get you the proper railing, or can fabricate for you. Often these companies have other profiles, which are not on the internet catalogue. C Dory has a unique hull to deck Joint. Most use a "shoe box" where the top molding is placed over the lower hull, and overlaps. This is why the larger part of the rub rail. C Dory mates the two parts, and then tapes over the inside of the joint--this is a far better hull to deck joint. But very few builders use it because it is more work (and stronger). Most boats the "fasteners" provide some of the structural part of the joint. The C Dory is just to hold the railing in place.

 

[journey on]

Bob, can you supply the same info for the 25? I need to replace the aluminum extrusion around the boat.

Boris

 

[pierrelesperance]

The Devil is always in the detail. I now must go back to the shop and work on the specs. Thank you again for your help

 

[thataway]

Boris, My recollection was that the 25 was similar, but may be about 1/4" wider extrusion. The insert are fairly well available. If you need the extrusion, I would measure, the one you have, and maybe even pull a piece and photo it end on (cross section). Call, and then e-mail the specs to TACO.