Glad to see that not. One important item on cleating a line, is to take a turn of the line around each of the posts before crossing over the horns. As for locking--if you lock it-the illustration shows the proper way--so that the line comes under itself, not the opposite which can jam.
On sailboats we rarely jamed the last turn--so that a line could be quickly and easily released. When anchoring, it is acceptable to jam the last turn. However, if you are going to use the cleat in the center of a line (for example I often use a bow lline and foreward spring line with the same rope. I do not jam the line on the cleat--and after two turns around the horns, then take another turn around the post to go back to the second point where this long line is secured.
The anchor always has to have a second line to secure it--never depend on the windlass when at anchor, or when running. I cannot comment on Tim's experiences--but I did anchor from 1946 until 1980 without a windlass--and I do believe that one of the reasons I have a bad back is that I pulled up a lot of anchors, with my back and legs. The windlass is there to pull the anchor up from the bottom. Drive the boat to the point where it is over the anchor--taking up the slack with the windlass. Drive the boat over the anchor, with the bow line tight (do not use the windless motor to pull the anchor out)--then after the anchor is broken out, retrieve it with the windlass. If you don't have a windlass, you can just secure the anchor rode, when the boat is right over the anchor, and power it out--and/or you can use an anchor ball to pull the anchor up.
I have anchored thousands of nights--and a windlass makes it much easier--and I have yet to ruin a windlass by abusing it.