For safety sake you might want to bridle the Balboa 16. (This means a line which goes around the entire vessel, uses cleates or strong points for attatchment, but drops below the gunnel, so that strain can actually be taken by the hull.) Any sharp corners need to be padded (not a bad idea to put foam sleeves on the entire line. I am not sure that the deck hardware is up to a tow of 15 miles, unless you were to be sure that it was thru bolted, backed and that there is no deck rot. Also the tow speed probably would not be much over 5.5 knots--since that is pushing the design hull speed of this boat.
There is also the safety precaution, that no one is in the line of a failing tow point--such as a cleate or bow eye. We were towing a Cal 36 back from Catalina, when the bow cleats (2) both pulled out, even though we were only going 6 knots. The cleats landed in the water in front of our boat--I had kept all of the crew well away from the towing lines. (Although a bow eye may be strong enough, I would not use it unless it has been re-enforced. If it pulled out, during the tow, the situation would go down hill fast).
We used to tow a 20 foot Grady White and we have a friend who tows a 25 foot Center console. Both of these boats had special rigs to be sure that the point of attatchment was strong enough for the loads. The dynamics of towing a sailboat with out a rudder are a bit different than outboard boats.
I would really want to watch the weather. Although the boat is self bailing, unless you have hauled her out and double checked the fittings on the scuppers, and any other thru hulls you would want to be sure that there is no chance of leaks on this type of a trip.
Since you will be getting a motor, and fitting a rudder soon, I would consider doing that in the next few weeks, even if you are getting a tow.
I have seen the weight of this boat from 1000 to 1400 lbs, it has a beam of 7' 5" and with the keel, is it not like towing a dinghy.
Good luck.