Auto piolot

[jkidd]

Does the GHC 10 work for cable steering?
What does the system cost out the door complete?

I can do the Raymarine SPX-5r for about $1500 complete (core pack and controller)

From what I can tell the Garmin is for hydraulic steering
Chris

The garmin GHP-10 is for hydraulic steering only.

 

[SeaSpray]

New auto pilot question. I have a 2005 C80 Raymarine system with the ST6001 auto pilot that has the gyro. This system uses a large Linear Rudder Position Transducer (basically a large pot) that is attached to the steering cylinder. On my last trip I started getting errors of lost rudder position.

I talked with Les at EQ and he said those position sensors are known to go out. He indicated that Raymarine had a software fix that eliminated the sensor. After talking with Raymarine I think Les thought I had a new auto pilot. The Raymarine tech told me my system must have the sensor and suggested a SmartStick sensor from Teleflex, even though Raymarine has the original sensors to sell me.

Anyone have experience with this problem on this system? Anyone replace sensor with the SmartStick?

Thanks,
Steve

 

[breausaw]

I have the TR-1 gold on our 25 with 150 horse mercury; I like a big kicker. As long as you have hydraulic steering there's no reason why this autopilot wouldn't work on your boat. It works off a gyro compass does not require a rudder sensor.

 

[jkidd]

I have the TR-1 gold on our 25 with 150 horse mercury; I like a big kicker. As long as you have hydraulic steering there's no reason why this autopilot wouldn't work on your boat. It works off a gyro compass does not require a rudder sensor.

Jay do you have a TR1 Gold for kickers or the TR1 Gladiator for the main motor. The TR1 Gladiator has been discontinued for the Garmin GHP-10. Time for a upgrade.

 

[Sea Angel]

Just a silly little UBI I found while checking my ST6001 while on a work rack.

I centered my OBs with the AP in STBY. I engaged (AUTO) the AP and used the +/- control buttons as I would do to change headings while underway. The hydraulic pump drove the OBs in the desired direction. It could be driven continously till the ram hit the end if you choose. I could follow the OBs position on the bargraph at the bottom of the 6001 display . This test was very helpful to see the range and functionality of the position sensor and allowed me to stop the direction of travel before the rams did hit the end of travel. One other item that raised its head was the centering position became more evident as I had a 5 degree difference between the left and right ends of travel, but I find this of no real concern at this time.

Do consider having shore power and the charger on while playing with this. You can run some interesting loads on the battery. Who knows what a low battery voltage would do the controller's memory or circuits.

Art

 

[starcrafttom]

steve, I had one of the smart stick feed backs on the 22. it went out and I sent it in to raymarine and then fixed it. I had to fix it once my self too. it was a good upgrade for raymarine to go to a none feed back design.

 

[breausaw]

I have the TR-1 gold on our 25 with 150 horse mercury; I like a big kicker. As long as you have hydraulic steering there's no reason why this autopilot wouldn't work on your boat. It works off a gyro compass does not require a rudder sensor.

Jay do you have a TR1 Gold for kickers or the TR1 Gladiator for the main motor. The TR1 Gladiator has been discontinued for the Garmin GHP-10. Time for a upgrade.

Yes, you are correct; I have the TR-1 Gladiator Marine Autopilot.

It has saved our bacon at least once after slipping anchor in the middle of the night. The wife first noticed and got up to look, sure enough we had dragged anchor and were slipping out into the main channel of Port Wells in pitch dark, 30 knot winds, and heavy rain; it was around 1:30 in the morning. I set an anchor depth alarm, but only shallow not for deep. If I aspect difficulties I will set a GPC anchorage alarm on my handheld Garmin, than take it to bed... not that night.

We had anchored in a tight spot so thought it best to move, I was having a hard time getting oriented. The wind was not only variable in direction it was also gusting, and with no good visible reference point the GPS lag made it difficult achieving a steady course. My Radar was still in the shop so no help there, and this new boat didn’t have a good whisky compass; no compass at all other than the Ray Marine E80; it was like piloting a small plane in the clouds.

No matter how much I tried we seemed to be gaining on the rocky shore; in deportation I reached down and turned on the TR-1. About 30sec later the gyro compass stabilized and I engage the autopilot; took my hands off the wheel. Moving at only a few knots the TR-I put us on a steady track, trusting the autopilot and not my senses I was able to navigate to a suitable anchorage.

Setting anchor with lots of scope we manage to get back to sleep; technology does have its advantages.

 

[Sea Angel]

SeaSpray,
I have the same system with the rudder position sensor. I too have an occasional lose of rudder data. So far all I have had to do was go to STBY on the 6001 and rotate the helm a few degrees back and forth, then re-engage to AUTO, occasionally just from AUTO to STBY to AUTO will do with a few seconds between. So far this has worked.

I have also used WD40 spray to keep the shaft and the rams lubed and clear of dust and grime, by also use a paper towel so I don't have over-spray all over the place. I check these items each time I board and before I move the helm. Hopefully this will help keep the seals moist as well. [Now that I have said this.....]

Art

 

[SeaSpray]

Thanks for the replys.

Art, I think I will try your method for a while before spending the $250 on a SmartStick.

Steve

 

[starcrafttom]

steve, as I recall the main problems caused to the unit was that it got over taxed by the motor moving to far left or right. The motor had a greater range of motion then the sensor unit. On the auto pilot control head you can adjust the amount of motion that the auto pilot will move. do not adjust it to the maximums or you take a chance of hurting the sensor unit.

 

[Matt Gurnsey]

I have the TR-1 gold on our 25 with 150 horse mercury; I like a big kicker. As long as you have hydraulic steering there's no reason why this autopilot wouldn't work on your boat. It works off a gyro compass does not require a rudder sensor.

ACtually, there is a reason it won't work.

Autopilot pumps are sized to the ram they are working, and too small a pump won't be able to move enough fluid to turn the motor. Too large a pump will move too much fluid and cause very fast (and dangerous) turns, and eventual; oscillation of the boat.

I've been aboard a 48 Sportfish that started chine walking at 25 knots because of too large a pump. Definately an E Ticket ride. (The KVH Satillite TV antenna never lost it's fix, which impressed me).

 

[Matt Gurnsey]

Just a silly little UBI I found while checking my ST6001 while on a work rack.

I centered my OBs with the AP in STBY. I engaged (AUTO) the AP and used the +/- control buttons as I would do to change headings while underway. The hydraulic pump drove the OBs in the desired direction. It could be driven continously till the ram hit the end if you choose. I could follow the OBs position on the bargraph at the bottom of the 6001 display . This test was very helpful to see the range and functionality of the position sensor and allowed me to stop the direction of travel before the rams did hit the end of travel. One other item that raised its head was the centering position became more evident as I had a 5 degree difference between the left and right ends of travel, but I find this of no real concern at this time.

Do consider having shore power and the charger on while playing with this. You can run some interesting loads on the battery. Who knows what a low battery voltage would do the controller's memory or circuits.

Art

BTW- In the autopilot set up it should be possible to set stop points for the motors before the engines hit their stops.

 

[Sea Angel]

Hi Matt;
If my memory is correct I set my limits to +/- 18 or 20 degrees. I will have to go thru the factory setup/calibration procedure to verify. I think I cut it too close on the limits, because if the center is off by enough the limit will not be met and the hydraulic pump will keep pushing the ram in that direction. The old analog loop trick of send and answer to stop the machine.

To the books....to the books... to the books.

I guess I will have to wait till I can get at the boat after the carbs, 100 hr service and water pumps (just high time 440 hr PM) are done. $:sad $:sad

Art

 

[breausaw]

I have the TR-1 gold on our 25 with 150 horse mercury; I like a big kicker. As long as you have hydraulic steering there's no reason why this autopilot wouldn't work on your boat. It works off a gyro compass does not require a rudder sensor.

ACtually, there is a reason it won't work.

Autopilot pumps are sized to the ram they are working, and too small a pump won't be able to move enough fluid to turn the motor. Too large a pump will move too much fluid and cause very fast (and dangerous) turns, and eventual; oscillation of the boat.

I've been aboard a 48 Sportfish that started chine walking at 25 knots because of too large a pump. Definately an E Ticket ride. (The KVH Satillite TV antenna never lost it's fix, which impressed me).

http://www.tigergps.com/garmintr1gladiator.html

Garmin TR-1 Gladiator Autopilot Selection Guide