Bennet or Lenco, need some help..

B

breausaw

New member
Could someone please help me make up my mind: Bennett or Lenco, 12X12 or 12X10, rocker or joy stick control.
I’d like to order this weekend to take advantage of good sales prices.
I’m leaning toward the Lenco 12X12 edge mount, and know electricity and salt water don’t mix but not that fond of having hydraulic lines running all over the place either. I like the straight forward approach to the Lenco setup but have heard good things about the Bennett sport tabs also.
 
jay,

For a whole lot less money, you may want to consider Permatrim. I think a Honda 90 is under $200. There are a couple of photos in my album.

There is no lateral trim ability with Permatrim, but fore and aft seems very good.

Lots of threads on this topic.....

Steve
 
Good point Steve. If I hadn't already had the Bennetts installed, I would've stuck with the Permatrim by itself. I have both but find that I like using the Permatrim to trim the bow up or down rather than the trim tabs.

Besides, if you need to adjust lateral trim, ask the 1st mate to move or slide the ice chest to the other side. :wink

Peter
 
Wandering Sagebrush":206yscfk said:
jay,

For a whole lot less money, you may want to consider Permatrim. I think a Honda 90 is under $200. There are a couple of photos in my album.

There is no lateral trim ability with Permatrim, but fore and aft seems very good.

Lots of threads on this topic.....

Steve
Click to expand...
Steve,
I have a Permitrim to install, so perhaps I should hold off. But I’ve read that other owner here have benefited for having both.
 
I have the Lenco 12x12 edge mount tabs and have been very happy with them. I am considering adding a Permatrim, but I would not want to be without the tabs.

Rob
 
Go with the 12 x 12. I did own Lenco for 3 years on a 29 footer and no problems. Definately get the version with the LED indicator of tab position.

On the other hand, over all Bennet has a much better reputation for durability in the long run.

I have the Institrim by Boat Levelers on the 25--It cost almost as much to replace the pump as a Lenco system would have cost.
 
I have had plenty to say about the Bennett/Lenco decision based on experience with both. If you want to see it then click on Search up there, put m120 in the Keyword field, tyboo in the Author field, and choose to display results as posts.

I had Bennett M120 Sport Tabs on my CD 22 and honestly believe the things were invented for that hull. They are that perfect. For some reason I put Lenco 12x12's on my CD 25 and I felt kinda like this poor kid.

RBsquare.thumb.jpg
 
Jay,

Since you already have the Permatrim, I think your idea of trying it first is a good one. You may find that you do not want to go through the hassle of putting the trim tabs in. If I am not mistaken, you will need to pull your fuel cells out, or at least I was told by a dealer that pulling them was necessary. If you're happy with the Permatrim, you've save a bunch of money for other boat toys.

Steve
 
Thanks for all in input, I’ll see how the Permatrim performs by itself before embarking on the Trim Tab purchase.
But if anybody knows, do you really have to pull the fuel cells to install Trim Tabs on an 07 22?
 
breausaw":ynwxp8r1 said:
Thanks for all in input, I’ll see how the Permatrim performs by itself before embarking on the Trim Tab purchase.
But if anybody knows, do you really have to pull the fuel cells to install Trim Tabs on an 07 22?
Click to expand...

How did you get fuel cells :wink: I have the 04?ish 25gal tanks on my 91 22" & I did not have to remove the tanks. You need to get the 1"shorter upper mount for the bennetts, that will turn a 4 hour job into a 2 hour job :mrgreen: :beer
 
I installed Bennett M120's on my 22 ft Cruiser and they work great. I had to opt to the optional position indicator so I could see where my tabs were at any given time. You can't beat Bennett's customer service either. They sent me shorter actuators and more tubing at no charge. I had to mount the pump under the sink so I need longer tubing. Mounting the pump in the cabin is a little noisy but only when your changing the trim and not bad.

I watched Ship Shape TV this weekend and it was about replacing trim tabs. They had a set of Lenco tabs that lasted just over a year and both tabs failed. They replaced them with Bennett tabs. That program is repeated several times. Ship Shape TV is on the sports channels.
 
I think I am the culprit that started the term "fuel cell". I guess I had too many years working on aircraft, where the fuel tanks are called fuel cells. There is just nothing more fun that working with your arm up to the shoulder in a pool of JP4 while changing a sensor. Brings back great memories.

Regardless, the terms are interchangeable. Either usage is appropriate.

Steve
 
This old Bennett vs. Lenco discussion comes up every few months or so.

The bottom line: the Bennett's are far less susceptable to water intrusion problems, especially in salt water, and for boats that are moored.

The reason: water intrusion effects oil and hydraulic systems far less than electrical systems and components.

To be sure, the Lenco all-electric activited jack screw system is alluringly simple (especially to install) and can work for dry-stored boats. No oil reservoirs, pumps, hydraulic lines, etc. to install.

But the failure rate for the Lencos is much higher for these electrically actuated trim tabs.

It's true that both manufacturers have very good customer service reputations.

Tom at Bennet Trim Tabs has a reputation for quality help and service that is nation-wide in scope.

Lenco usually sends replacement actuators out without much qualification other than proof of purchase.

Whichever you choose, be sure to store the tabs with the tabs up to retract the actuator shafts back into the actuator bodies and protect them from corrosion which will then be rough on the seals and destroy the water tight integrity of the actuator.

My $0.02! (That's my story, and I'm stickin' too it!)

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Installation of the Bennet Trim tabs appear straight forward, it’s the fuel tank issue that concerns me. It appears removal of the fuel tanks is necessary so that you can access the hydraulic lines that run through the transom at the top of the actuators. I think the Lenco installation allows you to bring their electric lines up far enough so removal of the fuel tanks is not necessary.
My boat will always be stored dry so for that reason the Lenco are more attractive.
I’ve got no qualms about removing the fuel tanks to install the Bennet’s and perhaps I’ll go that rout; they do appear more reliable in the long run.

Good advice from everyone, I appreciate it all.
 
breausaw":1yevjysf said:
Installation of the Bennet Trim tabs appear straight forward, it’s the fuel tank issue that concerns me. It appears removal of the fuel tanks is necessary so that you can access the hydraulic lines that run through the transom at the top of the actuators. I think the Lenco installation allows you to bring their electric lines up far enough so removal of the fuel tanks is not necessary.
My boat will always be stored dry so for that reason the Lenco are more attractive.
I’ve got no qualms about removing the fuel tanks to install the Bennet’s and perhaps I’ll go that rout; they do appear more reliable in the long run.

Good advice from everyone, I appreciate it all.
Click to expand...

breausaw-

Here's some advice for you and any future readers of this thread. (I"m trying to make these answers broad enough to serve as reference to anyone willing to read through them now or in the future, not just specific to one individual. I apologize to you if you've already read though them!)

You may want to read this thread if you haven't already: (General instructions plus details on how to get the actuators to fit behind the tanks)

Bennett Trim Tab Installation

And this one: (Classic discussion of Lenco vs. Bennetts and some Lenco faults)

Lenco Trim Tabs

There are even more threads in the Library Forum on Hydrofoils and Trim Tabs.

Lastly, did you look at all the photos under Trim Tabs and Hydrofoil Photo Details?

Then you can roll the dice and make a choice!

Good Luck!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I have my starboard fuel tank out right now for some through hull upgrades. It appears that you will have to pull the tanks to install the trim tabs if you want to be sure of a good seal behind the tank. The lines through the hull are opposite the top triangular-shaped actuator mount.

Mine appear not to be sealed from the inboard side. It may be that I'm anal and it's not necessary. You may get lucky and not drill a hole through the tank and get a proper seal from the outside. Just my humble opinion.

Speaking of anal. I'm about to search this site for views on relocation of the Bennett pump and reservoir. Mine is in the middle of my tanks and I've always been afraid of something heavy sliding aft and smashing the thing to bits. I'm considering the starboard lazaret. Don't want to steal your thread for a tangent but some input on my lunacy may be relevant to your install.
 
You folks may want to review the Installation Instructions from Bennett Trim Tabs

m80-6.jpg

"Step 5 - Feed the taped end of the tubing through the 3/4" hole in transom. Apply sealant on the mounting surface of the actuators and around the brass fitting. Secure the actuator upper mounts to transom with #14 x 1-1/2 " screws."

The actuators are designed so that you don't have to remove the tanks, and can simply install them from outside the transom, drilling all holes and doing the installation from outside.

After drilling the 3/4" holes, one should throughly seal them with epoxy or 4200 before bedding the actuator head in the hole. The tubing is simply inserted and runs up over the tank and can be led to the pump once you get a hold of it from the bilge, reaching over the tank. (So what's to worry about?) :lol:

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Thanks Joe.
After looking at the instructions and examining my previosly installed tabs it appears that they were indeed installed without removing the tank. The pressure hose has a 90 degree plastic do-hickey on the inboard side. My concerns after inspection of the hole is that it does not appear to be done to your exacting specifications...i.e. drill, relieve, fill and drill. The hole is rather jagged as there was no anti break-out support but I don't see any evidence of water egress.

If I do relocate my reservoir I wondering if I should go to the trouble of putting in new hoses which appears to require removal of the top bracket of the actuator or just put splice blocks in.
 
mpmccoy":18bc8wfc said:
Thanks Joe.
<Some discussion deleted>
If I do relocate my reservoir I wondering if I should go to the trouble of putting in new hoses which appears to require removal of the top bracket of the actuator or just put splice blocks in.
Click to expand...

If you read through the other threads on this, someone wanted to put the pump under the galley, but the hoses with their new kit were too short. They talked to Bennett (probably Tom*) and he quoted the pressures used in the hoses and recommended against splicing them. (Remember these are plastic hoses, not metal, and probably harder to splice correctly, probably requiring special machines or tools.) The company simply gave the new longer hoses to the C-Brat, as well as exchanging the long actuators for the short ones also needed. This is according to my memory. Was the C-Brat "rcwass"?

Pulling the top of the actuators out would, of course, allow you to do the sealing of the holes over right!

* Tom has a fantastic reputation for being friendly and helpful, plus it's FREE!
No one should ever fail to avail themselves of the free advice offered by manufacturers of the stuff we buy! Often, this saves you a lot of time, money, and grief!


Joe. :teeth :thup
 
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