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best rated anchor windlass choices
- Thread starter gwwalsh
- Start date
Don and Brenda
New member
I too just bought my boat anchorless. I pulled my yet to be splashed 9# Delta from the old boat and will use as a second anchor. On the Delta I believe most people use the 14# model. On the Lemar bruce not sure what weight to use. I will be looking at a windlass a few years from now, have to let the saving build back up. On the Delta I have 20' of chain and 150' rode.
The majority of boats seem to use the Lewmar 700. The 700 Fish Pro has a free fall feature. We have owned both, and did not perticularly use the free fall feature. (It is handy if you want to drop the anchor rapidly when on a fishing reef or simlar structure).
There are a number of other good windlass manufactuers. The 14# Delta is a good size for the 22, a 15# Manson Supreme, 16 # Claw anchor or 8 - 12 # High Test Danforth or a 7# Fortress or 6# Guardian Anchor is appropiate for the 22. The 25 or Tom Cat is best served by one size up from the 22.
Another option is the Lewmar V700G--which is a vertical axis windlass. This takes less space on the deck--but more under the deck, which in some boats may be limited.
You will use G4 (Hi test 1/4" ) chain and 1/2" rope. Most people use 3 strand nylon rope. There are some who used plaited 6 strand such as Sampson's Deep Six. This seems to be more flexiable and store better in a small anchor locker. I would not use double braid with a windlass, although it makes excellent dock lines.
The amount of total rode is dependant on how deep water you anchor in. Generally you want somewhere from 1/2 to the full length of your water line in chain. I like a bit more--like 50 feet. We usually use at least 200 feet of nylon rode.
There are a number of other good windlass manufactuers. The 14# Delta is a good size for the 22, a 15# Manson Supreme, 16 # Claw anchor or 8 - 12 # High Test Danforth or a 7# Fortress or 6# Guardian Anchor is appropiate for the 22. The 25 or Tom Cat is best served by one size up from the 22.
Another option is the Lewmar V700G--which is a vertical axis windlass. This takes less space on the deck--but more under the deck, which in some boats may be limited.
You will use G4 (Hi test 1/4" ) chain and 1/2" rope. Most people use 3 strand nylon rope. There are some who used plaited 6 strand such as Sampson's Deep Six. This seems to be more flexiable and store better in a small anchor locker. I would not use double braid with a windlass, although it makes excellent dock lines.
The amount of total rode is dependant on how deep water you anchor in. Generally you want somewhere from 1/2 to the full length of your water line in chain. I like a bit more--like 50 feet. We usually use at least 200 feet of nylon rode.
journey on
New member
Journey On has the Lewmar 600, which now has been superseded by the V700 Stainless Steel Vertical Windlass. The 600 has been a great anchor windlass, done well over the last 4 years. Judy can pick her anchoring spot, even several times, and I'm happy to push the button. The only reason to go forward is to knock seaweed off or see if there's too much mud. Wonderful.
Beats the Maxwell windlass where I had to shift the rode from rope to chain manually. Either way, sure beats pulling the rode up by hand.
From Defender it's $840. Where else can you buy so much spousal harmony for so little? As Bob said above, it uses 1/4" G4 chain, 1/2" line.
Remember to tie off the anchor line to a cleat after it's set, so you don't load the windlass too much.
Boris
Beats the Maxwell windlass where I had to shift the rode from rope to chain manually. Either way, sure beats pulling the rode up by hand.
From Defender it's $840. Where else can you buy so much spousal harmony for so little? As Bob said above, it uses 1/4" G4 chain, 1/2" line.
Remember to tie off the anchor line to a cleat after it's set, so you don't load the windlass too much.
Boris
Bob has really put down most of the basic ideas very well and succinctly. Great Job !!!
Another thought, is that the windlass, bow roller, rode and anchor should work together to allow self-launching, so that you don't have to go up on the bow, which a major reason to have a windlass, so you don't have to go up on the bow to retrieve the anchor in rough weather.
The exact combination of rode and anchor will probably depend on where you plan to cruise / fish / and/or anchor. The local C-Brats can advise you what works best with the bottom types where you're going, or pick a combinaation that will most anywhere, and a back-up anchor / alternate type as well.
Once you have an anchor and a windlass selected, you may be able to use your factory supplied anchor roller and get a self-launching system, but often folks have go to a pivoting anchor roller that drops the anchor center of gravity down when the rode is released, enabling the self-launch.
There are probably 40 or more windlass manufacturers world-wide, but I'd advise you to stick with one that has a reputation for good customer service and parts availability here in the U.S. Windlasses are generally reliable once you get them installed and working properly, but it's not at all uncommon to have problems that require repair and good customer service.
My solution to the potential windlass and anchor problems is to move up one size in windlass and anchor size, and to use a lot of chain, but that's my personal choice.
Look through the threads in the Library Forums on Anchoring. There's a wealth of information there... enough to write a book!
Good Luck!
Joe. :teeth :thup
Another thought, is that the windlass, bow roller, rode and anchor should work together to allow self-launching, so that you don't have to go up on the bow, which a major reason to have a windlass, so you don't have to go up on the bow to retrieve the anchor in rough weather.
The exact combination of rode and anchor will probably depend on where you plan to cruise / fish / and/or anchor. The local C-Brats can advise you what works best with the bottom types where you're going, or pick a combinaation that will most anywhere, and a back-up anchor / alternate type as well.
Once you have an anchor and a windlass selected, you may be able to use your factory supplied anchor roller and get a self-launching system, but often folks have go to a pivoting anchor roller that drops the anchor center of gravity down when the rode is released, enabling the self-launch.
There are probably 40 or more windlass manufacturers world-wide, but I'd advise you to stick with one that has a reputation for good customer service and parts availability here in the U.S. Windlasses are generally reliable once you get them installed and working properly, but it's not at all uncommon to have problems that require repair and good customer service.
My solution to the potential windlass and anchor problems is to move up one size in windlass and anchor size, and to use a lot of chain, but that's my personal choice.
Look through the threads in the Library Forums on Anchoring. There's a wealth of information there... enough to write a book!
Good Luck!
Joe. :teeth :thup
Jack in Alaska
New member
I never hear of anyone using a buoy and snap to pull their anchor using the boat movement. I have been doing it for 30 yrs. and it works great. No expensive and troublesome equipment to buy and install. You still must pull it into the boat by hand but it is all floating on top of the water and is real easy to pull in.
My anchor is a 22# Bruce, 20' of chain and 600' of 3/8" double braid. This was used on my 22' CD but I transferred it to my 26' and it is more than adequate. We regularly anchor in 150' of water and 5 to 6 knot tide current.
My anchor is a 22# Bruce, 20' of chain and 600' of 3/8" double braid. This was used on my 22' CD but I transferred it to my 26' and it is more than adequate. We regularly anchor in 150' of water and 5 to 6 knot tide current.
I recently purchased a Lewmar V700 from C-ME Marine Sales for $620 which was the best price I was able to find:
http://www.c-mesales.com/contents/en-us/p2413.html
Best,
Casey
http://www.c-mesales.com/contents/en-us/p2413.html
Best,
Casey
The Pro Sport 550 has a composit cover (not sure about the rest of the construction)--I would opt for Stainless Steel as in the 700. The 550 is cheaper, but the composit cover would be of a concern. (I once had a inflatable dinghy with a composit transom--it fell apart with a 25 hp out board planing at 25 mph....no thanks!
journey on
New member
I've used both a vertical axis (V700) and a horizontal axis (Pro Sport 500) windlass windlass. Though not those 2 specifically. The vertical axis has most of the workings under the deck, with just the drum showing above. The horizontal has everything above deck and very little under the deck, unless you can mount it in an anchor well.
I don't know the room at the bow of a C-22, but it might be best to have most of the windlass under the deck. Do you plan to build an anchor locker in the bow, or is there one there already? Remember, that rode has to go someplace.
If the price difference is only $100, I'd go for the 700. Both should be good windlasses, but remember, the more power the better.
Also, you do want power in and out. Free fall sucks, as you have to go on the deck, loosen the drum, set the anchor and then tighten up the drum. The 700 has power both ways, and it sounds as if the 500 does also.
Boris
I don't know the room at the bow of a C-22, but it might be best to have most of the windlass under the deck. Do you plan to build an anchor locker in the bow, or is there one there already? Remember, that rode has to go someplace.
If the price difference is only $100, I'd go for the 700. Both should be good windlasses, but remember, the more power the better.
Also, you do want power in and out. Free fall sucks, as you have to go on the deck, loosen the drum, set the anchor and then tighten up the drum. The 700 has power both ways, and it sounds as if the 500 does also.
Boris
Just returned from an RV trip to Grayland Beach State Park, WA, so was not able to reply.
Thanks for all the feedback! I will likely be going with a Lewmar, but have not decided whether to go with the vertical or horizontal type. I am leaning toward the horizontal due to what appears to be limited space in the rode locker.
Again thanks to everyone. This is a great forum!
- Gerry
Thanks for all the feedback! I will likely be going with a Lewmar, but have not decided whether to go with the vertical or horizontal type. I am leaning toward the horizontal due to what appears to be limited space in the rode locker.
Again thanks to everyone. This is a great forum!
- Gerry