Inspected my hatch today and found the seal (gasket?) That seats the hatch to the hull is disintegrating and is very likely source of my rainwater intrusion (though the cushions are never wet). Would appreciate a walkthrough of removing hatch. Is this in fact a gasket? Available? Or just 4200? It seems substantial, like 1/2" thick or so.
Bomar Berth Hatch
- Thread starter homerjack
- Start date
If I interrupt the original post, There is an issue where the hatch frame screws to the deck--not the gasket between the clear opening aluminum frame and the fixed frame. If this is the problem, see below.
There is no gasket between the hatch and deck. This is a sealant. The factory used some Bostec compound in the past--don't know what is used now.
I have removed the forward hatch on every one of my C Dorys, In each boat the cutout was too large. I undercut the wet/damaged core, as well as the screw holes. I filled these with thickened epoxy and then drilled new pilot holes for the screws. In two of the boats, Put a couple layers of glass around the periphery of the cut out, to assure a snugger fit. Then I put the hatch back in using 3M 4000, and tightened the screws back down.
There is no gasket between the hatch and deck. This is a sealant. The factory used some Bostec compound in the past--don't know what is used now.
I have removed the forward hatch on every one of my C Dorys, In each boat the cutout was too large. I undercut the wet/damaged core, as well as the screw holes. I filled these with thickened epoxy and then drilled new pilot holes for the screws. In two of the boats, Put a couple layers of glass around the periphery of the cut out, to assure a snugger fit. Then I put the hatch back in using 3M 4000, and tightened the screws back down.
Phil Barnes
New member
Another question on the Bowmar Hatch is whether they still make a screen that fits over the opening.
Mine is an older model (1991) and the Bowmar Hatch is a 90006390, probably about 20 inches by 20 inches.
I don't find it in Bowmar online literature but haven't called them yet.
Has anyone else found a screen for this model?
Thanks!
Mine is an older model (1991) and the Bowmar Hatch is a 90006390, probably about 20 inches by 20 inches.
I don't find it in Bowmar online literature but haven't called them yet.
Has anyone else found a screen for this model?
Thanks!
You don't need to buy a screen. I had given some away a couple of years ago. I use "Army no see-um netting"--had to buy a full tent sized piece. Fiberglass window screen works very well, Put velcro on the around the hatch on the overhead--we used the sticky back white velcro, and it has been on about 5 years. We secure the velcro on the on the net with hot glue.
We use the same technique for the front opening window. These screens are much easier to stow than the fixed aluminum framed screen.
Here is a photo of our front window "no see-um net" Cut outs for arms and latch cams.
Close up of Velcro on the screen:
The factory screens work best with a frame designed for them.
We use the same technique for the front opening window. These screens are much easier to stow than the fixed aluminum framed screen.
Here is a photo of our front window "no see-um net" Cut outs for arms and latch cams.
Close up of Velcro on the screen:
The factory screens work best with a frame designed for them.
Phil Barnes
New member
Thanks for the ideas! $80 Buckos buys a lot of screen and velcro!
Homerjack, here is what I did recently on my 1989 22.
1. Removed hatch, 12 screws plus 6 more at hinges
2. Scraped all old sealant off cabin roof, didn’t seem like enough?
3. Cleared underside of hatch of old sealant
4. Injected “gitrot” into balsa surrounding the Full opening, some soft spots, didn’t want to pull it all out and re-do with new balsa as soft spots were only in one corner. Also brushed gitrot around complete opening to seal balsa.
5 When gitrot dried, sealed opening with 5200 to keep water out since cutout was larger than hatch.
6. Over drilled the 12 holes and filled with epoxy.
7. Re-drilled the holes down through bottom layer of glass to use bolts vs screws. Used hatch as guide.
8. Placed a layer of “butyl tape” on under side of hatch
9. Inserted screws through hatch/butyl and wrapped the protruding part with small amount of butyl.
10. Filled pre-drilled holes with 4200
11. Placed hatch in position and pushed bolts through
12. Tightened bolts/nuts to firm, waited 24 hours then re tightened, butyl squeezed out slightly, so I knew I had good seal. Used stainless nuts and bolts , with medium sized washer.
Now I need to tackle the leaking wood handrail screws, winter project. Never ending, the joys of an older boat!
Curt
1. Removed hatch, 12 screws plus 6 more at hinges
2. Scraped all old sealant off cabin roof, didn’t seem like enough?
3. Cleared underside of hatch of old sealant
4. Injected “gitrot” into balsa surrounding the Full opening, some soft spots, didn’t want to pull it all out and re-do with new balsa as soft spots were only in one corner. Also brushed gitrot around complete opening to seal balsa.
5 When gitrot dried, sealed opening with 5200 to keep water out since cutout was larger than hatch.
6. Over drilled the 12 holes and filled with epoxy.
7. Re-drilled the holes down through bottom layer of glass to use bolts vs screws. Used hatch as guide.
8. Placed a layer of “butyl tape” on under side of hatch
9. Inserted screws through hatch/butyl and wrapped the protruding part with small amount of butyl.
10. Filled pre-drilled holes with 4200
11. Placed hatch in position and pushed bolts through
12. Tightened bolts/nuts to firm, waited 24 hours then re tightened, butyl squeezed out slightly, so I knew I had good seal. Used stainless nuts and bolts , with medium sized washer.
Now I need to tackle the leaking wood handrail screws, winter project. Never ending, the joys of an older boat!
Curt
Homerjack, here is what I did recently on my 1989 22.
1. Removed hatch, 12 screws plus 6 more at hinge
2. Scraped all old sealant off cabin room, didn’t seem like enough?
3. Cleared underside of hatch of old sealant
4. Injected “gitrot” into balsa surrounding the Full opening, some soft spots, didn’t want to pull it all out and re-do with new balsa as soft spots were only in one corner. Also brushed gitrot around complete opening to seal balsa.
5 when gitrot dried, sealed opening with 5200 to keep water out since cutout was larger than hatch.
6. Over drilled the 12 holes and filled with epoxy.
7. Re-drilled the holes through bottom layer of glass to use bolts vs screws.
8. Placed a layer of “butyl tape” on under side of hatch
9. Inserted screws through hatch/butyl and wrapped the protruding part with small amount of butyl.
10. Filled pre-drilled holes with 4200
11. Placed hatch in position and pushed bolts through
12. Tightened bolts/nuts to firm, waited 24 hours then re tightened, butyl squeezed out slightly, so I knew I had good seal. Used stainless nuts and bolts , with medium sized washer.
Now I need to tackle the leaking wood handrail screws, winter project. Never ending, the joys of an older boat!
Curt
1. Removed hatch, 12 screws plus 6 more at hinge
2. Scraped all old sealant off cabin room, didn’t seem like enough?
3. Cleared underside of hatch of old sealant
4. Injected “gitrot” into balsa surrounding the Full opening, some soft spots, didn’t want to pull it all out and re-do with new balsa as soft spots were only in one corner. Also brushed gitrot around complete opening to seal balsa.
5 when gitrot dried, sealed opening with 5200 to keep water out since cutout was larger than hatch.
6. Over drilled the 12 holes and filled with epoxy.
7. Re-drilled the holes through bottom layer of glass to use bolts vs screws.
8. Placed a layer of “butyl tape” on under side of hatch
9. Inserted screws through hatch/butyl and wrapped the protruding part with small amount of butyl.
10. Filled pre-drilled holes with 4200
11. Placed hatch in position and pushed bolts through
12. Tightened bolts/nuts to firm, waited 24 hours then re tightened, butyl squeezed out slightly, so I knew I had good seal. Used stainless nuts and bolts , with medium sized washer.
Now I need to tackle the leaking wood handrail screws, winter project. Never ending, the joys of an older boat!
Curt