Bow Chocks for 22 Cruiser

J

Jim and Anne

New member
Greetings all,
Anne and I have finally taken delivery of our new 22 cruiser which we've named CompanionShip. It's up on stands in the yard and I have rolled on the last coat of barrier coat and bottom paint. Now it's ready to go back on the trailer. I'll spend the weekend installing the radio, GPS, fishfinder, and transducer and other outfitting chores and then it will be ready for launch. I'm sure you all can understand our excitement.

I do have a question for you experts out there. We will be keeping the boat on a mooring for the boating season. (which here in New England with the C-Dory pilot house should be until November) Because of being on a mooring I will need to install bow chocks (skene chocks) to run the mooring pennants through. Have any of you installed chocks? If so could you provide advice as to placement and installation. I searched the forums but was unable to find any helpful information. I've even looked through many of the photo albums but have been unable to even find photos of boats with chocks installed. So if you know of any photos maybe you could point me in the right direction.

Thanks for your help.

I'd like to thank all those who have posted here with their sage advice over the years. Reading through the posts and seeing everyones enthusiasm for their C-Dory's was one of the reasons we went with a C-Dory. Your a great group of helpful (and sometimes very funny) people.

Jim
 
I would use captive chocks and thru bolt them, after coating the inside of the hole with epoxy. the chocks I refer to are: Windline Marine locking line chock Model LC1
http://www.windline.com/accessories.html

These are sturdy enough for full time mooring, will take a pennant up to one inch, and lock , as well as can be thru bolted. A chock screwed to the deck is an accident waiting to happen in the balsa cored deck.
 
Thanks Bob,
I have looked at that style of locking chock. But my inclination is to go with the diagonal opening type because they would be easier to drop the line into at night or if it was a bit bumpy.
It seems to me that in order to thru bolt into the deck, the chock would need to be set back from the edge so far that the pennant would rub the gelcoat--somewhat negating the one of the purposes of the chock. I'll be puzzling the solution over the weekend.
Jim
 
hi jim,
congratulations to you and your bride on the recent cd-22 purchase.
i can't give you any better information than bob has posted.
so, thought i'd just wish you well and share in your enthusiasm for boating.
best regards
pat
 
Hi Jim, congratulations on the new boat. I thought they came with bow chocks, one on each side of the bow, at least mine did, it wasn't an extra. Anyway, you're right, you will need them. I'd put heavy ones up there, the diagonal ones are fine, easier to put the line in but if you make up a rig that stays there permanantly, a pennant, if you will, that remains on the boat, you don't have to go to the bow!

Take a nice heavy line, about 25' long with an eye in each end. Run it through the chock and to the cleat on the bow centerline. Then lead the free end, down the side of the deck back to the edge of the cockpit. You can then clip that end on the mooring buoy, however you choose to hook it up without leaving the cockpit.

When departing, you can motor up to the mooring buoy, snag the line with a boat hook and unclip it and put the end into the cockpit again. Just make sure that it's not long enough to get back into the screw(s) and long enough to reach about halfway down the length of the cockpit.

When returning to the mooring, approach the buoy, snag it with a boat hook and clip your line on and let the boat drift away from it.

With this method, you don't have to worry about what kind of chock you use, you could even put one on each side and make a bridle sort of affair to connect to the single line going back to the cockpit.

Where in MA are you going to keep it? I've sailed out of Marblehead, Hingham and Quincy, great places to be!

Charlie
 
Hello Charlie
We'll be keeping the boat in Cotuit Harbor, which is on the south side of Cape Cod.
I grew up in Weymouth, so I know the Hingham and Quincy areas quite well. Thanks for the tip on running the line from the bow back to the cockpit.
I just looked at your photos of Captain's Choice to see about placement. Are your's thru bolted in the position they are in?
Jim
 
Almost all chocks and cleats on the edge of the deck will allow the lines to rub on the gel coat--so we install 1/8 rounds (rub rails of SS) which go right where the line might rub. All of my cruising and most of my racing sailboats had these strips of SS.

I just don't trust screws on any mooring gear which may take a load. Several ways to get around the gel coat rub problem.
 
An alternative to using a stainless steel chafe guard, is to apply a strip of automotive clear mylar chip guard. It protects the gelcoat, is cheap, and easy to apply. I use it on several places on my boat, anyplace where there is a chance of chipping or abrading the gelcoat.

Best regards,
 
thataway":2z64droh said:
Almost all chocks and cleats on the edge of the deck will allow the lines to rub on the gel coat--so we install 1/8 rounds (rub rails of SS) which go right where the line might rub. All of my cruising and most of my racing sailboats had these strips of SS.

I just don't trust screws on any mooring gear which may take a load. Several ways to get around the gel coat rub problem.
Click to expand...

Bob,

Do they sell these 1/8 rounds, or this something you made?

Rob
 
Jim and Anne":2ovubf2b said:
Hello Charlie
We'll be keeping the boat in Cotuit Harbor, which is on the south side of Cape Cod.
I grew up in Weymouth, so I know the Hingham and Quincy areas quite well. Thanks for the tip on running the line from the bow back to the cockpit.
I just looked at your photos of Captain's Choice to see about placement. Are your's thru bolted in the position they are in?
Jim
Click to expand...

Jim, I think so, to be honest, I've never looked. I will this weekend and let you know. I do know that the deck is very thick up there but be sure, whenever you drill a balsa core, to put plenty of epoxy to seal the core at the hole.

Charlie
 
OK - so this is a bit off topic

1st - Let me say Jim and Anne did their "due diligence", that means "lots of research", before buying a great boat. I know they waited YEARS for a mooring in one of the nicest bays on the south shore of Cape Cod. When their number finally came up and they were considering several boats, I gave them a pitch while aboard the Retriever. Last fall as I was selling all the pluses of the boat, they also wanted to know what I found wanting. (It's a b**ch to land single handed in a stiff wind). Jim sized the berths for comfort, while they both seem to appreciate the CD, on Vineyard Sound, was better suited to slower cruising as a chop develops.

Now, here's my off topic question - when you're bottom painting a boat for the first time, how do you know where to draw the water line? I had one guy who does this for a living tell me, "We put them in the water and walk around them with a magic marker!" :roll:

Phil
 
These are called "Rub strakes" They are made of stainless and on current West Marine catalogue page 555.

Taco makes these:
http://www.tacomarine.com/cat--Stainles ... _back.html The ones I use are hollow back, are smooth and tapered. They do screw on, but since there is no load on them, a couple of self taping screws and 5200 keeps them in place nicely.

Another example is at:
http://www.bosunsupplies.com/products2. ... uct=L209RS

I usually launch a boat and let it sit overnight--most places there will be a little "scum line"--and go a couple of inches higher. Some boats I have eye balled where I thought the water line would be--not always exact--but usually within an inch or so.
 
ccflyer":n27nny8a said:
Now, here's my off topic question - when you're bottom painting a boat for the first time, how do you know where to draw the water line? I had one guy who does this for a living tell me, "We put them in the water and walk around them with a magic marker!" :roll:
Click to expand...

When La Conner Maritime did the bottom paint on my new Tom Cat, they asked me to leave the boat in the water for a month before bringing it in, so as to establish a scum line, which established the waterline.

Now here is my OT question. What, exactly, is a pennant and how is it different from any other mooring line?

Thanks,
Warren
 
Warren-

A pennant is a flag, but is also a pendant:

Pendant - The line by which a boat is connected to a mooring buoy; a short rope hanging from a spar having at its free end a spliced thimble or a block. Sometimes called "Pennant"

After establishing the waterline, you may want to consider using it just as a guide to draw in the top of the bottom paint parallel above that waterline.

The scum/bottom growth can grow above where it is because the wave action of the water can keep it wet above the absolute waterline at rest in static conditions.

Depending on what you experience where you're moored, you might raise it as much as 2-3 inches above the waterline, then add an accent boot stripe. Too much, and it might look funny, though.

The boat will look great if the colors are choosen properly!

Joe. :teeth
 
Sea Wolf":1cvwsqwk said:
Pendant - The line by which a boat is connected to a mooring buoy; a short rope hanging from a spar having at its free end a spliced thimble or a block. Sometimes called "Pennant"
Click to expand...

Joe, this begs the question: what is the purpose of the spliced thimble or block? How is it used? Part of my question is I am not entirely sure what they are mooring the boat to. I am familiar with mooring buoys constructed of a used tire and a pyramid-shaped upper structure, at the top of which is a ring attached to the chain which goes down to the sea bottom. Are we talking about a specialized line to attach to this ring? If so, how is it attached?

Thanks,
Warren
 
Warren-

I'm not a real experienced mooring person, more inclined to use a covered marina when available, so I'm not sure about the block usage. Perhaps Bob Austin (Thataway) can clear this up.

However, here's a very good article on the use of the mooring pendant, quoted below:

MOORING PENDANTS - I like the security of two mooring lines over a single one. If I know a huge storm is approaching I will temporarily add a third line from the bow eye on the stem directly to the chain at the bottom of the float. Give it enough slack so the ball has just enough room to move as if the third line were not there. My two main mooring lines consist of two equal length of 1/2" (minimum) triple plait nylon with a loop spliced at the top end. Set at least six tucks in the splice. Do NOT use a knot. A splice is stronger and lies flat on the deck. These lines should have no more than 1' of slack in calm water to ensure that the bow picks up the chain when the wind starts to blow. This helps to dampen the hunting at the mooring and keeps the ball from bouncing against the hull.. Avoid the temptation to use all the line you bought simply because you don't want to waste it. Pendants longer than described above will droop in the water and then wrap around the chain below the float as the boat ghosts around the mooring float. That's exactly the situation to avoid during a storm as the line will abrade right where it wraps around the chain. Another way to prevent the pendants from wrapping around the chain is to make the lines float by slipping a foam tube over each. Use the type of foam tubing that kids play with in the water. While preventing a line from sinking it also makes it easier to pick up when you approach the mooring. If you use lime green foam they stick out like a sore thumb in the anchorage. Don't use red, you won't be able to see it at night.

Yale cordage introduced a new manufacturing process with 3 strand nylon. Rather than weaving 3 strands into rope, they pioneered a unique eight-strand weave. This new line is called Brait. It is worth investigating as an alternative to triple plait nylon.

Splice a metal thimble in the bottom of the pendant that connects to the float. A metal thimble increases strength and minimizes wear. The rope will soon wear through without the protection of a metal thimble. As you splice the loop around the thimble bind the junction of the lines at the open end of the thimble with a whipping to keep the thimble captive inside the eye. This eye MUST be tight around the thimble. Attach the two lines to the float using a single shackle as shown above. For some reason, two shackles will bind around each other and of course one can't! I have no explanation for why this happens except that it happens. Just take my word for it! Now that you've become an expert at splicing, splice another loop at the deck end of each line. Make this loop just large enough to slip over the deck mooring cleat. This is a very convenient and secure method for quickly fastening the boat. See picture below. If you want extra security, tie a light line over the cleats to lock the heavy ones in place. My lines have never slipped off their cleat since 1980. .
A splice retains approximately 90% of the original strength of the line. A bowline retains approximately 80% of the strength and all other knots about 65%. This is the reason why riggers always splice. Besides, a splice is far more compact than a knot and lies flat on the deck.
Before you splice in the top loops, slip a 2' length of 3/4" rubber garden hose over the line. This is the cheapest and BEST chafe gear you can use. If this combination is too thick to pass through your mooring cleat, the cleat is too small. Replace it with a bigger one.
NOTE: Don't use polypropylene line as UV deteriorates the line quickly and it doesn't have as much stretch as nylon. The muskrats love to chew on poly. They have razor sharp teeth that make real quick work of a 1/2" line. The incision resembles a knife cut so don't be mislead into thinking this is a malicious event.

mooring_clevis.jpg
Look closely to see metal thimbles inside loops of rope at the shackle pin! Also note shackle is siezed with wire.

DECK FITTINGS - The pendants or nylon mooring lines should each pass through a mooring chock mounted on the edge of the deck and then terminate at a deck mounted cleat. All deck fittings MUST be firmly through bolted, equipped with a generous solid wood backing plate and sealed to the deck with marine adhesive, Sikaflex. Use a large metal plate that straddles both mounting bolts of the chock or cleat to distribute the load equally. Use nylock nuts on the bolts to ensure they stay tight with vibration. Marine sealant on all fittings prevents movement and water leakage. Imagine that you have to hold 1/3 of the boat's weight from the cleats! Use 3/4" rubber garden hose (not vinyl) as chafe gear around your pendants as shown at right. Slip the line through the hose BEFORE splicing your loops in the end.
Check everything monthly and annually.

mooring_chock.jpg
Look closely to note all chafe guarding, chocks, cleats, braiding, and siezing.

The original article is HERE.

Joe. :teeth
 
Quite a setup Joe :shock:

I think if you got down to the boat on a Tuesday, you could be underway by Wednesday afternoon at the latest!! :P

Seriously though, it looks very secure. Why trust a $50K boat to $15 bucks worth of line!! :thdown

Charlie
 
Captains Choice":3sb2hmh2 said:
Quite a setup Joe :shock:

I think if you got down to the boat on a Tuesday, you could be underway by Wednesday afternoon at the latest!! :P

Seriously though, it looks very secure. Why trust a $50K boat to $15 bucks worth of line!! :thdown

Charlie
Click to expand...

Charlie-

Of course, it's not my boat.....

But we sailors* really know how to get things done right on the water!

*Like you, me, Bob Austin, Wild Blue's Jim H, Larry H, etc, etc., about half the C-Dory crowd (!)

Joe. :wink
 
I have never kept a boat permently on a mooring. But there are a lot of weak points in a mooring system. The usual Pennant on a mooring is the line which attatches the chain to the boat. It is usually line--either braded, plait or three strand. The usual mooring relies on chain as the main connection with an anchor--there is a heavy chain, then a lighter chain, which often goes to or thru the mooring ball, or float. Finally the Pennant attatches to the boat.

Chafe is certainly a problem with moorings, so is the shackle--consider that many shackles are only a fraction of the working load of the chain and rest of the mooring system. I have used several of the round thimbles, and I agree that they do seem to allow less chafe, but are harder to work with, especially in our normal "anchoring". I have one 300 foot combination nylon/dacron plaited line which has these round thimbles in it--it was surpluss and used for towing Navy targets. You can only put the pin of the shackle thru it--so you have to use two shackles if you wanted to use chain--where as the usual thimble will allow only one shackle.

Definately in storm conditions, one must have good chafing gear--and I assume that any one who is on a perment mooring will have good chafing grear. I have always used fire hose--(courtesy of my fireman friends). It is softer than plastic hose, which will heat and work harden. I like to tie my chafing gear onto the line or Pennant.

My concern with a skene type of chock is that it is only screwed (but with 5200 that may well be strong enough)--into the deck, and if the line comes out of the chock, it might chafe against an anchor roller or some sharp object.
 
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