Camper canvas leaking at rear of cabin

P

pcg

Member
No, my camper canvas does not leak. My boat doesn't have camper canvas yet. However, I will be adding canvas at some point so I've been thinking about how to design it and it seems to me there is a weak point (where water can drip in) where it attaches to the cabin roof. However, I'm not speaking from experience, so maybe I am wrong?

Does water ever drip down into the cockpit from the rear of the cabin roof? It seems it could because the canvas I've seen slopes down to the fiberglass roof, and the roof (which is underneath the canvas) then slopes down towards the cockpit. Am I correct? Is this prone to leaking here in heavy rain?

Since I will be doing fiberglass repair to my boat before painting, I have the opportunity to alter the roof line at this point. I could make the rear of the roof flare upwards a tiny bit, like a spoiler at the rear of a car. This would prevent water that runs down off the canvas, and then onto the roof and under the canvas, from dripping over into the cockpit. It would just run along the rear edge of the roof until it got to the edge of the roof, then run down the side of the outside cabin wall.

Or do I not understand how the canvas is attached and this is not a problem?
 
I don't have a camper back, but the roof of the 22 is flat (fore to aft). If you attach the camper back to the major roof surface (not the high part in the center) the water coming from the camper back top will run onto the roof and then off the sides of the roof. However, the roof is not as wide as the gunwales, so water running off the side of the roof can run back into the cockpit. How much water comes into the cockpit is determined by the boat loading (fore/aft attitude).

This may be alleviated somewhat by the shape of the top of the camper back. A more bowed top will allow more water to run off the sides of the camper top rather than run to the front.

Having a continuous connection of the camper top to the cabin roof (awning runner) will also help prevent water intrusion.
 
Paul I think your idea for raising the roof a little on the back edge sounds ok. My 22 (2016 model) has a lip on the back edge similar to what you describe but sounds like this wasn't always the case in older models. I think that lip is probably more beneficial for diverting water when there is no camper canvas, since the camperback attaches in front of it anyway. The awning rail, properly designed canvas and side curtains should keep the water out regardless of the lip. I've spent a fair number of weekends in some pretty heavy rain and have never had any water enter the cockpit from behind the roof.
-Mike
 
ssobol":339vk76w said:
... A more bowed top will allow more water to run off the sides of the camper top rather than run to the front.
Click to expand...
That makes sense.

MikeR":339vk76w said:
My 22 (2016 model) has a lip on the back edge similar to what you describe but sounds like this wasn't always the case in older models.
Click to expand...
On my 1999 the roof appears flat right at the apex, but as soon as it starts sloping towards the edge, it also starts sloping slightly to the rear.

MikeR":339vk76w said:
The awning rail, properly designed canvas and side curtains should keep the water out regardless of the lip. I've spent a fair number of weekends in some pretty heavy rain and have never had any water enter the cockpit from behind the roof.
Click to expand...
That's encouraging to here. I just need to learn what constitutes a proper design, both in terms of the support structure and also where zippers and snaps are placed on the canvas. There are good resources online for designing and constructing camper canvas, but nothing specific to the C-Dory 22.

Gene Morris":339vk76w said:
We have had a camper back made by Bentleys in the Portland Or area for over 10 years. The zippers and sealing system that they installed prevents leaks forward...If you like I could take a photo of the set up and send it to you.
Click to expand...
Gene, that would be very helpful. Thank you!
 
All of the C Dory's I have owned (1993-2007 vintages) have had a raised area along the back of the cabin roof. There is also a small lip starting at the aft end of the forward side window, going all around the front of the cabin of the boat to the opposite side of the boat. Again, to prevent small amounts of water from running into the side windows.

This is for several reasons for the aft lip. Mainly to prevent water from rolling back into the cockpit in small amounts. This area is where the awning rail is attached:

Even if you didn't have this raised area--the extrusion would keep water from rolling back under the cloth. I have made "dodgers" for sailboats, with a small wooden strip bolted to the cabin roof, and then lift the dot fasteners on the face for the canvas is snapped to this.

The awning rail, is an extrusion of either plastic or aluminum, that a bolt rope, sewn onto the leading edge of the canvas Bimini or camper back, slides into--and provides a water tight joint. The awning rail is screwed to this raised lip (over an inch wide), and usually some sealant (LifeSeal or 4000) is placed under the extrusion

There are snaps on the side of the cabin , upper the overhang, aft which holds the canvas tight to the edge of the raised area, and the cabin top--a drop or two may get in there during a gale, but minimal normally

This photo was to show the additional railing on the top, I believe that all C Dorys should add (unless a radar arch in this area)--but just aft you can see the raised area and awning railing bolted in place.
DSC00818.sized.jpg

We use the same bolt rope/zipper piece for both the slant back cockpit cover and the Bimini top. The piece has the bolt rope in the forward edge, and two zippers, which start in the middle in the aft edge. There is a flap which has Velcro sewn in over the top, making the zipper water tight. Also you can open the top from the outside for entrance from each side.

Extrusion in vinyl:

Awning-Track-Flanged-White-48_1.jpg


Bolt rope which is sewn to Sunbrella and zippers:

Keder-Awning-Rope-Black-5-16_1.jpg
 
My 2005 CD 16 has the little spoiler lip and the camper top fastens in front of that with common sense fasteners. It doesn't leak at all under normal conditions. The only time I've noticed any leaking is driving into nasty wind and big chop. The spray plasters the boat and the wind drives in some water. Under these conditions, drops of water in the cockpit are the least of my concerns.

There is another type of canvas to deck connection that uses a track that fits a cord. It looks like more trouble to connect, as the cord would need to be threaded into the track. Others have talked about it here. If the track was set in butyl rubber, that might keep water from passing. Another thing that I did was make a "rain gutter" out of a press-on gasket material. Easier to go the the shop and take a picture than it is to describe. I'll post it later.

But my thought would be to first try anything that doesn't involve fiberglass, resin, and gel coat.

Mark
 
thataway":2n2i23j6 said:
All of the C Dory's I have owned (1993-2007 vintages) have had a raised area along the back of the cabin roof. There is also a small lip starting at the aft end of the forward side window, going all around the front of the cabin of the boat to the opposite side of the boat...
Even if you didn't have this raised area--the extrusion would keep water from rolling back under the cloth.
Click to expand...
I can see the lip in your photo and that's exactly the kind of thing I though I might add. My 1999 22' Cruiser doesn't have this. As you say though, the extrusion that you detailed would prevent water from flowing back under the canvas if it was well-sealed. I may add a lip anyway. Thank you Bob.
 
Marco Flamingo":1gk34k3g said:
... my thought would be to first try anything that doesn't involve fiberglass, resin, and gel coat.
Click to expand...
That would normally be my thought as well, but since I'm doing a complete restoration that will involve fiberglass and finish work, I'm trying to think of any fiberglass mods I might want in the future so I can do them all at once when I'm set up to do lots of fairing and sanding. I won't start until next fall so I have time to think things through, which means learning a LOT from everyone on this site. Thank you all!
 
Agree if your cabin top does not have the raised rail lip aft--now is the time to put one in. It won't take a lot of glass--maybe make a core of foam, and a couple of layers of glass to allow you to fair the structure, and hold the screws--although I would probably go thru the original roof, with pan head screws.

I prefer the Aluminum awning railing, because I have had some of the plastic ones deform and no longer hold the bolt rope in place. Maybe the latest plastic will work fine, and not stretch or deform if heavier extrusion. I do believe that snaps at the ends, and under the cabin roof on the boat sides, make this attachment stronger.
 
Back
Top