CD 22' Bilge pump replacement

J

jsimmons248

New member
Some advice please on my 2004 CD 22' original bilge pump replacement. All I can read from the old pump is the following: Model # 62, ISO 8849 Marine Ignition Protection 1500 gpm 12 volt 4.8 amp. The pump snaps into a base that is mounted on the deck and there is no brand name I can read off of the casing. I do not see an external float switch so I assume it is internal to the pump. The main question is what should I replace the pump with? Have there been improvements in pump function and design since 2004? I would appreciate any suggestions. :D
 
jsimmons248":3hh0k3op said:
Some advice please on my 2004 CD 22' original bilge pump replacement. All I can read from the old pump is the following: Model # 62, ISO 8849 Marine Ignition Protection 1500 gpm 12 volt 4.8 amp. The pump snaps into a base that is mounted on the deck and there is no brand name I can read off of the casing. I do not see an external float switch so I assume it is internal to the pump. The main question is what should I replace the pump with? Have there been improvements in pump function and design since 2004? I would appreciate any suggestions. :D
Click to expand...
Most likely it's a Rule pump (that's what the factory tended to use). Bilge pumps haven't changed a lot in the past 11 years (or more). There are a few different versions - some have internal float switches, some require external. Rule also made (makes?) a pump with a sensor that is based off of detecting the physical resistance of the water when the impeller turns. Those pumps would cycle on every minute or two to test if water was present. Most brats found that quite annoying if you're trying to sleep on the boat and the extra power draw wasn't appreciated either. Of all the different types of pumps I have had on my boats, the Rule bilge pumps have been the most reliable. The easiest thing to do would be to find the same model pump and plug it back into the base. Most will fit the same base year over year.
 
I am using both Rule and Johnson pumps. The former has solid state float switch and the pump is a cartridge making it easier to replace (in theory) LOL It is easy to remove to clean out debris m2cw
 
I have found a Rule 1500 gph pump that will need an external switch to activate the pump. Would an external switch pose a problem? Anyone use them as opposed to an internal switch that I have read can cause problems? Thanks.
 
jsimmons248":3e6zo2vn said:
I have found a Rule 1500 gph pump that will need an external switch to activate the pump. Would an external switch pose a problem? Anyone use them as opposed to an internal switch that I have read can cause problems? Thanks.
Click to expand...
I've used both. The internal switches have not been a problem (with the exception of those that auto sense by turning on every now and then). The float switches are very reliable also. The advantage of a separate float switch is that it's easy with most of them to manually activate the float switch to test it - e.g most have a small shaft that can be turned by hand. The disadvantage of a float switch is that it takes more space in the bilge area than a pump with an integrated float switch.
 
I use external switches (conventional and solid state) and no experience with interior units.

Both brands mentioned are reliable

Good luck
 
Before I get to blathering (since it may not apply), which bilge pump are you replacing? Reason I ask is that there have been varying locations for the "mid" bilge pump over the years (and 2004 is at a point where I'm not sure), plus some folks (or maybe dealers) have added a pump at the transom. Some of my potential comments would only apply to one or the other, so....
 
I thought about this more than a little before I updated our setup. I went with an Attwood Tsunami pump with easily replaceable core and external float switch that has a simple slide up/off cover so I could test or clean the switch with great ease. The core can be swapped out without touching the plumbing.

Here are the pieces and I just keep one extra core on board.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... id=1159959

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... id=1160012

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?pa ... &id=124115

Greg
 
jsimmons248":5fyttr14 said:
The pump is located in a small depression (sump) in the center of the boat at the transom.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Okay then you won't have the "slant" issues of the mid pump located under the galley and really have a number of options. A couple of notes:

1) That sump is very likely cored (was on my boat and on other 22's I have seen). You can tell by looking at it: if it looks "shallow" as compared to the thickness of the hull, then it is cored. Mine had a core of about half the thickness of the main hull core. It also had screws running right down into said core, unprotected, holding the bilge pump basket. I removed them, drilled and filled (thankfully no wet core) and then used adhesive caulk to secure the new bilge pump basket* and no screws. I would recommend similar if your bilge pump basket is screwed down. It's relatively easy presuming no core damage.

2) The sump is a bit shallow, so I looked for a switch that would turn "on" at the lowest point possible. There is a variation in "on" and "off" points for various switches. I think I found the specs the easiest in the Depco Pump catalog. This may not matter to you depending on when you use the pump (e.g. when underway, etc.)

3) Varying opinions on this, but I detest the "automatic pumps. The last thing I want is to hear a pump cycling on when it doesn't "mean anything"-- not to mention all night when I'm sleeping, or when the boat is unattended (using up battery power). Ugh!!

4) I chose a pump that would take 3/4" hose, because I wanted as little "back slosh" as possible (due to small sump). I didn't want to use a check valve. The 3/4" hose holds less water than a larger hose. I'm not planning on this being a "crash pump," but more for nuisance water, so this works well for me. I used the stock (albeit replaced) through hull location and made an upward loop just as the hose came into the boat, then down to the pump.

This is how it ended up. 1,000 gph pump, 3/4" hose. That's a Water Witch model 101 switch attached to the side of the pump.

bilge_pump_lightened.jpg

Sunbeam

*(I also removed the core and made the sump deeper, but I realize that's not most people's idea of a bilge pump replacement scenario, and I actually did it as part of replacing the transom drain, not the bilge pump.)
 
Many thanks for all of the great information! At this point in time I am looking at a Rule 1500 GPH pump with a float switch for the replacement. It appears the old pump base was screwed into the core so I will look to see if there are any issues before installing the new base.
 
Just for the record, here are a couple of photos of the original transom sump in my 2002 22. You can see it's shallow relative to the thickness of the hull (which I think is around 1"+). That's because it was cored with about half the thickness of balsa as the rest of the hull. In the second photo, you see just the forward/port corner, and I had already over-drilled and de-cored the holes left over from the removed bilge pump (new one went in with just adhesive caulk). The transom drain also happens to be out, but that's another subject.
1_aft_sump_original.jpg

tube_removed_inside_view.jpg

This "cutaway" illustrates how the sump (at least in my boat) was cored with partial-thickness balsa. Maybe it helps to visualize the area (an/or deduce how yours was built):

transom_drain_sump_core_annotated.jpg
 
I like Rule 5-year Gold series bilge pumps. Beefier build and wiring, and a 5-year warranty you won't find anywhere else (you're lucky getting 10 years out of one...they live a hard life). My stdbd side just ran dry for 2 weeks or more (so quiet and vibration free that we didn't notice it was on with the AC on or at anchor). The transom shower hose got stuck under the float switch in rough water, keeping it on. Buy Quality the first time, and you'll never be sorry.
Cheers!
John
 
That starbd Rule Gold 5 year warranty pump finally quit working. It may have been pumping dry for weeks or months. this is a $140 item, not cheap.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... ilge+Pumps

Faxed my receipt, and here is the reply.

Hi John,
I have your sales slip that you faxed. I will have a new pump sent to you. You should see it in approx. 10 days.
Regards,
Karen Stanton
Customer Service
100 Cummings Center, Ste 535N (Ste 445D warranty)
Beverly, MA 01915
978-282-5276 direct line
978-281-4320 fax

WOW! no arguing, no mailing back the defective pump and a "direct line" to customer service in a company recently re-merged a few times over!
Even I am impressed!
Cheers!
John
 
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