Changing Battery Location on my tomcat 255

The windlass is powered off of the house batteries. The ACR's are wired so that if the engines are running all the batteries are being charged if required. I have learned a lot reading owners manuals and following along on the wiring diagrams, and then putting my hands on the wires themselves. I am considering adding a small storage area behind the fridge that is located on the Port side directly across from the captain's helm. Any thoughts?
 
pcg":1bb1lkyk said:
Foggy":1bb1lkyk said:
...
Also minimize distance from start batterys to engines;
bad for weight distribution often but good for engines
and batteries.
Aye.
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Yes, but... the engines have no knowledge of where the batteries are. They just want to have sufficient voltage and that depends on resistance between batteries and engine, and that is a factor of both distance and wire size. The OP can move his batteries farther away and with big enough wire can actually have less resistance and lower voltage drop than before.
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Please. There is a point of no return on this idea. Most C-Brats I've noticed
try to be practical.

Besides, my engines are smart. I take care of them. They take care of me.

Aye.
 
Ref putting storage behind the refrigerator which is on the port side under passenger seat. There should be no problem, as long as there is good ventillation. I recently had to replace the Engle Chest refrigerator (similar to the Norcold I had in Thataway, the TC 255, which was in this location. I could not get the same Engle currently so I put in a slightly larger Norcold 12 volt only. The space under the forward dinette seat is about the same size in the Tom cat and the fiberglass interior 25. There should be some room there. I did put in a small (with you muffin computer fan. It draws about 0.1 amp, so I am going to leave it running all of the time. I left the circuit, so I could easily install a "snap disc" thermostat which is set at 104* F--which I will have aboard, and can add if necessary. The fan will help dissipate heat from the refer.
 
Any reason you replaced with a D.C. unit only? There is plenty of space I was thinking of adding drawers accessible from the berth. I saw that someone else also utilized a computer fan to create circulation. I was actually thinking of building a small bank that I could put in the front window to create air circulation with minimal draw. I am still working on the project. Work and family the boat is a diversion :D
 
Randal Thank you for keeping me honest. I am not sure What the name of the boat will end up. I just kept going with what I thought was correct.
 
ChapaRRal Cock":17xl48cu said:
Any reason you replaced with a D.C. unit only?D
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'The Norcold nrf 45 was one of very few about that size which would barely fit--I had to renovate the slide and carriage system to accommodate it. The AC DC version costs about $250 more. The reality is if we are plugged into AC, the 12 volt system (the Li ion battery system runs the refrigerator and freezer--separate units) will be charged by an 85 amp charger. So there is no real need for a separate AC system. I have a double throw double pole switch which shifts the ref/freezer system to the "house batteries" or the Li ion batteries, if for some reason I want to run off the house batteries--which always have a 20 amp smart charger on the house batteries.
 
So I actually have it all back together and so far it seems as if everything works! I have A lot of clean up and zip ties to install. I think I removed 5lbs of wire because of shortening things up. I will get pictures up soon.
 
So I have posted a few pictures, I need to complete the Pictures, But would appreciate any feedback
 
Wanna change a couple heavy load (batteries, water tanks, fuel tanks)
positions on your boat?

Why not take a couple people , approximating the weight change you
anticipate, and place them (politely) in areas you'e considering the new
heavy loads and see how your boat handles - dead slow, getting on plane,
at your cruising speed.

Take them for a nice ride. Change positions of the friendly ballast as
required to give you a clue on how to progress.

Aye.
 
An unfortunate design aspect of that particular boat is the lack of adequate sponson height (and thusly freeboard/tunnel clearance). If the sponsons were made 6-8" taller I'd be a TC 255 owner.
 
westward":1iduv980 said:
An unfortunate design aspect of that particular boat is the lack of adequate sponson height (and thusly freeboard/tunnel clearance). If the sponsons were made 6-8" taller I'd be a TC 255 owner.
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Agree, unfortunately the molds for the TC 24 and TC 255 used the same hull/bridge deck configuration. The TC 24 being much lighter. The TC 255 needs at least 6 more inches of tunnel clearance to realize its full potential. Once on a plane, the tunnel opens up, but with a certain height of wave, the tunnel again makes contact.

ChapaRRal Cock looks like a great job and system. You may have already covered that positive bus bar which is exposed. ABYC would require that all positive bus bars have a cover of some sort. I have used spit clear vinyl hose to affect in places where it is difficult.
 
Thanks for the Tip Bob I knew I had to cover it just wasn't sure how I was going to
 
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