Were four healthy men fishing in cockpit of CD22 cruiser yesterday resulting in water accumulation in rear half of cockpit while anchored. A case of overloading and low stern? I believe there is an open drain hole in fuel tank "sump area" in addition to transom drain plug no?
Cockpit Load
- Thread starter homerjack
- Start date
If you take water over the c Dory22 transom--easy to do with 4 "healthy" in the cockpit--the water will come in thru the hole which the cables, fuel line and power cable goes thru on the starboard side of the splash well.
Since it is hard to re-do the boot, which goes over these cables, I take a new boot, cut a slit in it, then bed it onto the splash well wall. I then put silicone seal in around the cables, and before it is cured. This presses plenty of silicone around the cables, and should make it close to water tight. If you have to replace fuel line or cables, the silicone can be cut off, and more applied. May not be 100% water tight, but close.
If that doesn't help--then I suggest less "healthy" crew...
Since it is hard to re-do the boot, which goes over these cables, I take a new boot, cut a slit in it, then bed it onto the splash well wall. I then put silicone seal in around the cables, and before it is cured. This presses plenty of silicone around the cables, and should make it close to water tight. If you have to replace fuel line or cables, the silicone can be cut off, and more applied. May not be 100% water tight, but close.
If that doesn't help--then I suggest less "healthy" crew...
The bilge pump mounted at the bulkhead drains out a rather low bulkheadfitting just above the pump. Water can siphon in throught that fitting since it turns downward into the hose from the pump. The solution is to run the fitting upward to the gunnel and then back down with a loop -- that stops water from coming into the boat. You end up with a hose loop or piping that is higher than the exit hole, thus stopping water intrusion. This was a problem on all of the bilge drains I have seen on the older c-dories. Ron
Newer boats also come from the factory, with only a bilge pump inside of the aft cabin bulkhead--but many of us added a second bilge pump all of the way aft, in the sump.homerjack":31pjmwwx said:
Jack, are you saying that there is another hole in the transom--above the area where the sump drain plug is? I have never seen a C Dory which had such a hole--but that does not mean it doesn't exist in some boats.
I've got two batteries and two fuel tanks back there and hardly room for a pump. It's never been an issue before and I assume it was due to all the weight in back that day including a big cooler full of halibut. Not sure now if there is an additional drain hole. Probably my oldzheimer's again.
I'm having just a little trouble understanding which hole you are referring to.
Your splashwell most definitely has a drain, and it is right above your drain in the sump at the transom. You can plug this drain, or leave it open. Mostly they are open. Your splashwell should catch most, if not all, of the water coming over the transom. If your splashwell has been removed, I can see water getting into your cockpit, as well as the appearance of a drain as you describe, right above the sump drain, and I would expect you to take water on into your cockpit.
You can absolutely get water intrusion through a sump pump that is installed to pump out low on the boat. In many cases a loop is used to keep water from accumulating (this is also done with wet exhaust) however this method is only as good as your fittings. They make check valves that can help in boats with limited space for hose loops. It ensures that the water only flows one way. Most use these to keep water in the hose, and avoid having it drain back into the boat after the pump shuts off. These installations are done low, near the pump, to hold as much volume as possible. This would also keep any water from backflowing into your cockpit through your pump. I'd caution you that I would not want a check valve to be a major part of the "floatiness" of my boat. They sometimes come apart and have nothing in the way of a barb to clamp the hose to on one side. In winter I remove my check valve so water does not freeze in my hoses.
I would absolutely install a bilge pump in my transom sump. I have seen way too many bilge pumps stop working to trust my safety to a single pump on a non self-bailing boat. At work I have several self-bailing boats and they ALSO all have at least two bilge pumps. There is nothing like a backup, and if you really get some water in there having the extra pump gets you dry much faster and that can make a big difference, and could be a determining factor in whether or not a situation is survivable or not.
THAT SAID, I have carried a fair bit of water in my cockpit. It makes the boat very very "squirrely" as a CD22 does not handle weight shifting very well. HOWEVER, I am astounded at how well these boats handle the extra weight in the stern in terms of overall buoyancy. NO reason to forego extra pump capacity though.
Your splashwell most definitely has a drain, and it is right above your drain in the sump at the transom. You can plug this drain, or leave it open. Mostly they are open. Your splashwell should catch most, if not all, of the water coming over the transom. If your splashwell has been removed, I can see water getting into your cockpit, as well as the appearance of a drain as you describe, right above the sump drain, and I would expect you to take water on into your cockpit.
You can absolutely get water intrusion through a sump pump that is installed to pump out low on the boat. In many cases a loop is used to keep water from accumulating (this is also done with wet exhaust) however this method is only as good as your fittings. They make check valves that can help in boats with limited space for hose loops. It ensures that the water only flows one way. Most use these to keep water in the hose, and avoid having it drain back into the boat after the pump shuts off. These installations are done low, near the pump, to hold as much volume as possible. This would also keep any water from backflowing into your cockpit through your pump. I'd caution you that I would not want a check valve to be a major part of the "floatiness" of my boat. They sometimes come apart and have nothing in the way of a barb to clamp the hose to on one side. In winter I remove my check valve so water does not freeze in my hoses.
I would absolutely install a bilge pump in my transom sump. I have seen way too many bilge pumps stop working to trust my safety to a single pump on a non self-bailing boat. At work I have several self-bailing boats and they ALSO all have at least two bilge pumps. There is nothing like a backup, and if you really get some water in there having the extra pump gets you dry much faster and that can make a big difference, and could be a determining factor in whether or not a situation is survivable or not.
THAT SAID, I have carried a fair bit of water in my cockpit. It makes the boat very very "squirrely" as a CD22 does not handle weight shifting very well. HOWEVER, I am astounded at how well these boats handle the extra weight in the stern in terms of overall buoyancy. NO reason to forego extra pump capacity though.