Converting a roller trailer to bunks

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From: C-LionRay (Original Message) Sent: 12/22/2002 12:06 AM
Can you do it?
I don't like the roller trailer, it is way too hard to get the boat on it straight.
I prefer to power load on a bunk trailer.
Can I convert my existing trailer or should I trade it in or sell and buy new?


From: Mike Sent: 12/22/2002 12:30 AM
Ray -

Give it a bit longer before you junk the rollers. I got rollers, and I would not trade for nothing. You can launch and retrieve a lot shallower, and if you do back it in deep, you can load the boat all but the last foot by hand. All you need to add are some side guides, and then make some removable shims like B~C did. I don't use the shims myself (yet). The side guides keep her close to the middle, and if it's too far off center, I roll the boat back while in the water and shove it over. Sometimes I back it in a little farther to move it over. Seven times out of ten, it goes on right down the middle without touching the guides.

Another good thing about the roller type is the ability to move it six inches or so back to inspect or clean the hull when she's parked at home. No rigging needed.

On the other hand, ain't this a great problem to finally have?

Mike

From: Sea Wolf Sent: 12/22/2002 5:26 AM
Ray- Stick with that roller trailer until you've given it a fair shake. My side-guides only have about 1-1/12 inches of clerance total along both sides of the boat and are quite high, about 4 inches at the top below the rub rail. I never have to re-center the boat, period. I do use the winch, always, but I think I its a lot easier to climb up on the trailer and do that as compared with climbing down out of the boat over the bow after powering on. This is of course, when launching and retrieving alone. The roller trailer is much easier to use in shallow angled ramps. It would be relatively inexpensive to add an electric winch if you thought the cranking was getting tedious.

One extra thought. With the roller trailer, be sure to have a secondary tie-down chain in the front to the bow from the winch tower and only unhook it once you're on the ramp. If your winch were to fail, there's nothing else except the rear straps to keep the boat from sliding backwards on the trailer and off. The E-Z Loader factory provides a safety chain for this purpose, but mine came with an S-hook on the end and I changed it to a re-closable threaded chain length to make it a little more positive. Congradulations on your new boat! Joe.

From: 2nd Byte Sent: 12/22/2002 2:46 PM
Ray, I went the opposite way. I had a tandem bunk trailer for my "85 Angler and when I bought my '91 Cruiser it came with a roller trailer. I wanted the rollers and for sure wanted to keep the newer tandem axle so I switched the rollers and bunks between the two trailers and wound up with the tandem axle with rollers. I much prefer the rollers. As others have said, I wouldn't rush to make the change to bunks. Ultimately you may still wish to change but give the rollers a shot, you'll probably find that you like them.

Congrats on the new boat!

Mark

From: Mike Sent: 12/22/2002 3:13 PM
Ray -

I see in your "Ain't She Purdy" picture on the CB message board that you have zip for side guides. You can get a set of the things for under $200 from EZ Loader, or you could make them yourself for lots less. Those, and the shims like B~C made to emsure centering will do all you need. (He heard of the idea on the C-Dog site. There is also a picture there.) There are some folks who prefer the bunks for the CD hull, and maybe you'll find you are one of them.

Mike

From: C-LionRay Sent: 12/24/2002 4:41 PM
I think I'll take the guides off my other trailer and give it a try. There are too many other things to spend the boat bucks on .
I'll let you know how I like them.
For the guys that like the rollers, do you hand crank, winch or power load?
Thanks again...


From: Mike Sent: 12/24/2002 4:47 PM
Excellent plan, Ray. Figure it out for free. I have a hand crank on my trailer, and as little as I launch and retrieve (have a slip at the marina) I don't figure to ever spring for an electric. If I spot the trailer right, I have a foot or two of cranking at the most. Even when I have several feet to pull, the rollers make it almost effortless.

Mike

From: 2nd Byte Sent: 12/25/2002 11:47 PM
Ray, I've used both the crank and the Power Winch and I guess it's amatter of what suits you need best. How often you're taking it in and out of the water, etc. Both work fine. I currently have a power winch on my trailer and I like it. For my particular need it is great.


From: C-LionRay Sent: 12/26/2002 4:52 PM
I added the guides with th ehelp of my son today and we'll let you know how the boat loads after our initial fishing trip tomorrow.
Thanks for the replies...


From: Mike Sent: 12/26/2002 5:23 PM
Ray -

Oh boy! It is great to hear Mr. Fisherman talking about the "initial fishing trip"! We want to hear about the launch and retrieve, for sure, but we really want to hear about the fishing trip!

When I dunk our boat, I always back the trailer in until there is just enough dry ramp left to get onto the tongue behind the Jeep. It always seems to work, regardless of the ramp I'm using. I almost always remember to unplug the lights first. You have to leave the safety chain on the bow eye when you back down, but don't forget to unhook it before starting to unwind the winch strap. She goes back easy on the rollers. For launching, you really don't even need to get the trailer hubs wet. As long as the stern is touching the top of at least a foot of water, you can shove the boat right off the trailer. I prefer to back in far enough so the boat is floating by the time the bow gets a couple feet back. Easier to unhook the strap that way. The C-Dory hull is very forgiving, and easy to launch. And once floating, the shallow draft makes it easy to move around by hand. If the wind is blowing, though, it does seem to catch a lot of it, so keep that in mind.

Good luck with the trailering chores. You don't really need luck, though. Good luck with the fishing, too. But then, looking at your Mr. F album, you seem to have plenty of that.

Enjoy,

Mike

From: Fishtales Sent: 1/29/2003 7:28 AM
Ray,

I guess I'm a minority here- I like the bunks. When I ordered the boat I specified the trailer to have bunks, tandem axle, disc brakes and guides. The factory supplied E-Z Lift trailer would not (at that time) install disc brakes and they wanted more bucks for the bunks (?) I special ordered my trailer from TrailRite for the same price that E-Z Lift wanted for their single axle roller trailer.
My personal preference is to drive the boat onto the trailer, and with rollers that would be tough to do without having the boat roll off before you can hook the winch strap to the bow.
About 95% of the time, I use a sling to launch the boat. With the bunks, I had to install some slots for the straps to go under the stern.

Roger


From: Swanny Sent: 1/29/2003 9:00 AM
This may be slightly off topic, but my new CD-25 works excellent with my Pacific bunk trailer (2 axle). I've loaded/unloaded now 3 times, no problem either powering up or winching. Since we have good ramps with docks here in So. Cal. I prefer to winch. I back my van's rear wheels to within about 6"-12" of the water. I hand position the boat to within 2 ft of the bow roller on the trailer. 10-15 seconds of easy winching, we're done. And, since the winch strap goes UNDER the bow roller, there is zero slip-back when I pull out. I think this boat holds a new record of being the easiest I've owned to load and unload. The trailer fit makes the difference.

Steve

From: C-DOG_Ken Sent: 1/29/2003 1:26 PM
Hi, Ray

I've got an EZ Loader with rollers, and I didn't like it the first year I used it, because I was having similar problems getting centered. I finally discovered that I was backing in a little too far, allowing the boat to still float from side to side, even when I hit the bow roller stop. Leaving the trailer a little higher allowed me to power onto the rollers, which almost automatically centered the boat. Now I'm happy with it. Mine came with side bunks, which I would recommend adding, since they're a great help in a significant crosswind.

Ken

From: Redƒox Sent: 2/1/2003 2:51 AM

I'm one that prefers bunks to. After seeing what happened to two boats at the ramp this summer when the bow was not secured and the boat rolled off the trailer. And knowing the pressure on the hull is more evenly dispersed when stored on the trailer. Also I'm too cheep to be replacing those spendy little rubber rollers in a few years.

From: Chivita Sent: 2/14/2003 10:01 PM
I ordered the disc brake and slotted bunk options for Chivita's EZ loader trailer but Chivita was ready before the trailer was. So the factory loaned me a drum brake roller trailer. Here are the few observations I have to add about the difference.

Bunks are about $250 cheaper than rollers!

EZ loader's answer to a slotted bunk trailer is to add an extra set of bunks mounted on top of the original bunks, with the upper set cut for the strap to fit under. Even with that extra set of bunks Chivita seems to sit lower on the trailer than she did on rollers, but I didn't measure. (sorry!) Without that second set of bunks, Chivita would be even lower which is probably better for towing as the center of gravity would drop and wind resistance might be a little better.

When we first brought Chivita home from the factory, someone had not locked the winch handle and we almost lost her off the trailer as she rolled so freely on the rollers. The two stern straps where worthless in holding Chivita, they both came completely loose. The only thing that saved us was the chain safety strap hooked to the bow and a very polite guy who honked and yelled loud enough to wake the dead. I carefully tried the same experiment with the new bunk trailer and Chivita didn't seem to budge off the bunks. I'm sure if I had tried to drag race some one the outcome would still be expensive.

One other thing I learned with the disk brake trailer, even with our diesel truck's 400 pounds of torque, you cannot move Chivita backwards unless you disengage the trailer brakes using that little lever on the trailer. The drum brakes of the factory's trailer did not have this issue.

From: Chuck S Sent: 2/15/2003 6:06 AM
My boat trailer experience and training always insisted on not relying on the winch to do anything but help get the boat on the trailer. A separate strap or cable is required to secure the bow of boat to the trailer -- don't rely on the winch, it can be easily disengaged. A belt and suspenders approach? Maybe.

-- Chuck

From: STIMPY'S DAD Sent: 2/19/2003 8:22 PM
Mike,
The link refered to in your reply to Ray re B-C's guide ons will not open. Does any one have a picture of his set up?
Doug on "STIMPY"


From: wilbe asea Sent: 3/1/2003 8:58 PM
Referring to the debate between rollers and bunks, the new King trailer I purchased when I bought my C-Dory comes equipped with bunks that are lined with something akin to UHMW plastic, slippery stuff I have used in my wood working hobby. According to King trailers, these bunks are almost like having rollers, but support a larger area of the boat like bunks do. They are channeled, and do not hold sand and rocks like carpet does, and have a long life expectancy. Since I am new to such material in this application I cannot vouch for Kings's claims.

From: C-Worthy Sent: 10/27/2003 10:14 PM
I'm a rock-n-roller, and here's why. I've watched numerous boats being launched from bunk trailers and they all involved backing and slamming on the brakes, then backing and slamming on the brakes, then backing and slamming on the brakes... You get the point.

This is hard on everybody, especially the brakes. I also don't drive the boat onto the trailer. There is far less room for error by winching the boat on by hand. Though I have to admit, it looks cooler to throttle it up and jam it on. Too sporty for me with my limited experience.

The first time I had to help load a boat on a trailer was in the Yukon River and the skiff had a hole in the bottom, so we had to get it on quick. Luckily I wasn't driving since there is a about a 5-knot current to cut across. We had to try three times before finally getting the boat onto the trailer just right. I kept thinking that rollers would have made a huge difference in that case. The skids just weren't slick enough.

Also, don't be fooled by your skids friction power. Every year in Whittier I hear about some poor dope who unhooked his treasure at the top of the ramp and backed her down, doing the brake-back-brake routine (it works at Deep Creek, right?). All the while the boat's slipping a little bit further on the trailer skids with each tap on the breaks. Throw in our notoriously rocky boat ramps and - sssscraaape - all the way to the water. This usually also adds a hole to quickly swamp the "treasure". This probably ruined their morning.

Nope. I'm sold on rollers. I like to know that's she's greased and ready to slide on or off. I also can't say enough about guide bars on the sides. Nice to have in the wind, too.

My ¢¢
Blain
C-Worthy

From: Redƒox Sent: 10/28/2003 9:19 AM
Oh gimeabreak! Only time I had a little trouble was at the crapy little dock in Whittier, on minus tides. C-Dorys draft so shallow, and bunks are lower to the ground that places the boat lower also. Me thinks them roller trailers were designed more for deep draft sport boats. Bet you'll think twice when you have to fork out a bunch of doe for them rotted out rollers some day ;)

From: Sawdust Sent: 10/28/2003 1:13 PM
No single answer to this one, guys!

I use each type quite often -- and both have advantages and disadvantages. Neither will excuse dumb mistakes, like unhooking at the top of a ramp, and both types load and unload easily if done properly. For the ramps that I routinely use, side guides are important -- almost a "must" if lots of wind and/or current across the ramp. To either offload or retrieve with a bunk trailer, it helps to first back the trailer far enough in to get the bunks wet -- usually eliminates the "brake and bump" operation. I drive on when loading by myself and prefer bunks because there is generally enough friction with the bunk padding to hold the boat while going forward on the boat to hook up the chain and cable. OTOH it's just about as easy to let the thrust from the running motor hold the boat in position as you go forward to hook up. Greg is right, maintaining and or replacing rollers is a PITA and rollers are more expensive.

I'm not as nimble as in yesteryear, so I'm much happier with another helping hand to do the hook up. Les does this often, and loads/launches by himself with all sizes up to 30+ feet.

Proper fit of trailer and boat is very important. I've had to repair fiberglass several times from poor adjustment, and it pays to have an experienced pro check the fit... saves money!


HTH

Dusty

From: C-Worthy Sent: 10/30/2003 7:30 PM
No way man! Rollers Rule!
Besides, that crappy little dock in Whittier is where I go all summer.

Greg, I bet your a Chevy man, too...

Thanks for the middle ground, Dusty. That RedFox can get mean sometimes... (I'm just kidding buddy) I always respect RF's opinions. I'd say he probably has more time in a C-Dory, and know more about them than anyone on this site.

But it makes me think that there might be two camps, here. Am I bright or what?!?

Speaking of that crappy little dock in Whittier, I learned that the rates for the Whittier Dock are some of the highest in the country. Does this sound right to you? Are we getting our money's worth? I'm going to start a new thread on this topic in the Alaska Chat "room".

Blain "rollers-4-life" Anderson
C-Worthy

From: Sawdust Sent: 10/30/2003 8:42 PM
Blain,

We both agree, you and the old Dusty guy. Greg is my buddy - and I give mom a hug any chance I get. I certainly respect his opinions, and what works for him is cool. Sometimes other things work for some of us. I use both roller and bunks all of the time. Have one roller and two bunks right now, and it doesn't make a bit of difference at the ramps I use. Just gotta remember which one you are working with. My fishing partner has a roller job and cranks the boat on every time. Too tough for me... I drive on and let the motor do the hard stuff. It's also kind to the long waiting lineup at our busy ramp, because with two of us we can back in and be outa there in less than a minute.

New subject. I just joined your digital gang. Couldn't stand seeing all those great photos, so traded some of my old camera gear (I've got bags and bags of old Nikon bodies and glass) for a Nikon D100. I know, I know, Greg is a Canon guy -- and I would be too just to get the stabilized lenses, except this was a no-cash deal. I like that kind, and I can use some of my lenses on the D100 body. Back to kindergarten, eh!

There ain't no Honda gang here as far as I know. I run Suzuki and Honda, also had a Yamaha until a month ago.
Les (son) is a dealer for Honda and Johnson/Evinrude (Suzuki) and was a service center for Yamaha. Whatever pushes the C-Dory is fine with all of us. Greg and Mom have a whole bunch of personal friends here who look forward to them coming to the Seattle Boat Show CD gathering. Y'all come, hear?

Dusty

From: Redƒox Sent: 10/31/2003 12:42 AM
Well what good spirit here. You fellers cheered me up tonight.
Dusty, congrats, that's a fine thing ya got there! I would have gone that rout to with those old lenses fitting that new body like that. Hey Nikon has some image stabilized glass out there to!
Hey is there a "Wallas Gang" that might jump me when I get there? or do ya think I'll be safe.... (lol) Ok I'm going to get booted off the tech site if I keep it up.... **POOF** I'm out.....

From: CAVU Sent: 10/31/2003 7:18 PM
I have been following the bunk vs rollers discussion and I might add something that many boaters are not aware of. In many states it is not legal to power load your boat. Some states feel this contributes to washing out the ramp?

From: Redƒox Sent: 10/31/2003 9:06 PM
Good point.. interesting.

From: Moskwass Sent: 11/1/2003 8:16 AM
Here in Western WA where I launch most of the time we are constantly having to put up with holes that have been prop washed out. it is frustrating as all get out. the worst culprits are the commercial crabbers who put the bow on shore and hold it there in forward while they unload their catch. they make some very big washouts.
Roger
 
Since I'm in the market for a new trailer, I pulled this thread up to see if any of the comments above would sway me in my decision.
I too have had difficulty at times centering the 16' on the rollers. Primarily, I believe because of the vessel leaning lower on the starboard side due to the kicker motor. With the new 22' and the twin motors, I suspect the propensity to lean would no longer be a problem. Additionally, I had forgotten about Ken's solution in adding spaces to the guides.
When I launch with the roller trailer, I seldom dip the hubs into the salt water. However, when retrieving, the hubs do get dipped but then I'm on my way home to immediately wash the salt off.
One other plus for the rollers that has not been mentioned is that I've parked the boat and trailer on the yard at home to wax the hull. In order to obtain a complete wax job then I've easily eased the boat back a few inches on the rollers (with the boat tethered of course) so I could wax the areas previously covered by the rollers. I don't believe that I'd be able to do that with bunks.
 
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