EZ Loader Trailer Price and Other Options

T

T.R. Bauer

New member
Gentleman,

Honestly, as much as I work on it, I hate my EZ loader trailer......It seems to own my free time......So, here are a couple of questions:

1.) Is is economically feasable to have new spindles welded on? They are the root of my problem as they are pitted and leak......And you know where that leads......If you don't, it leads to road side break downs even after a handful of miles as the salt gets to stuff very quickly.

2.) Do you think it would be cheaper and easier to just throw a new axle under it? This is something I can do myself and cheat the shop out of their $100-150 dollar an hour labor rate......

3.) Obviously a new trailer is far more costly than either options above, but does anyone know how much a new tandem costs? Which model does EZ loader make for the CD 22?

Thanks in advanced for your candid response.

Tim
 
I can't advise on a new trailer, but here are a couple of comments on your existing trailer. I'll say that our EZ Loader is 8 years old, used in salt water and is holding up as expected.

First, when you say the hubs are leaking, I assume that you mean grease or oil is leaking out past the seals. I've used stainless seals on Journey On's trailer which has oil bearings. That fixed the problem. and I've replaced the bearings with Timken bearings, which are a lot better than the Chinese bearings EZ Loader (and everybody else) uses.

Next, EZ Loader trailers are bolt together, so, you you can get a couple of axles and install them. You just have to order the hangers, figure out where to put them to balance the load, etc. Here's EZ Loader Parts.

And finally, EZ Loader now has aluminum as their basic line. Though clearly the running gear is still iron.

Your call.

Boris
 
Thanks Boris.

Grease/oil is not leaking out, but salt water is intruding in one of the hubs. It is either the spindle or the grease cap. Who knows......I am going to give it one more really good cleaning, get a new hub, seal, bearings, and dust cap, and see what happens.

If it leaks again, your whole new axle idea is a good one. However, it doesn't appear that EZ Loaders sell them. Or, I just can't find them on their site......as usual.....LOL....They probably don't list them as they likely outsource them through Dextor anyway.

Here's the ironic part, the trailer's original bearings, seals, and brakes lasted 15 years without issue. Then, because the brakes didn't work, the shop dug into them and replaced everything. I really probably should have done this myself, but I had other pressing things going on and figured that trailers are simple enough and it shouldn't be rocket science. So much for that......

The brakes work really well now, but the bearings need constant attention because something is leaking......I don't even get 1,000 miles out of them - or maybe 1 year, whichever is first.

Yeah, I'm pretty frustrated.......

Tim
 
Are the brakes dragging and heating the hubs--leaking grease etc?

I use an IR thermometer on the brakes, the hub and tires every 2 hours when trailering. (once I had missed it for 4 hours--and had a problem after a long down grade).

Many spindles are bolted on--get an axel with the spindles bolted on if you can. Yes replacing the axle is going to be cheaper than a new trailer! http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Spindles/Redline/R20384EZ.html
 
By golly, you're right, the parts list doesn't show axles. What I do when I order parts from EZ Loader is call parts: 509 489-0181 ext 219. Discuss life with them and they'll probably let you know what way to go. They also have a tech service guy, but take him with a grain of salt.

As you point out, water only comes in through the seal or the cap, one end or 'tother. Not only did I use sleeves, but I found out that the factory is the only place from which to get all rubber seals. If you get them from another place, they'll have exposed steel/iron which seems to corrode in salt water.

Also, I called the distributor in Settle. They were most knowledgeable and helpful. Only their e-mail is on the web site. I may have gotten it from Toms in Tacoma.

Good luck. boris
 
Boris and Bob,

Thanks for your responses as I really appreciate them as this has been a multi-year issue that is getting the best of me for sure.

Bob: The bearing are not getting hot on the hub in question. Yesterday, I checked them by just putting my hand on them and the coolest one on my last check was the one that failed - I am well aware that doesn't make any sense at all, but it really was slightly cooler than the rest of them. Then again, it isn't really ever hot here anyway like it gets in the South. It literally exploded after about 120 miles.....took the dust cap and nearly the tire with it. Thank goodness I carry a whole spare hub and it continues to come apart without too much cursing.

On the hub where the apparent H2O leak is, and the one that fails, the bearings always are rusty and look horrible as you can imagine. They looked decent upon inspection in the winter, but I dunked the boat two times since then and that one must really leak a good deal as there was literally nothing left of the outer bearing.

Boris: Thanks for their phone number at EZ loader. I will call them and get some information on what axle is under my trailer. Hopefully I will find something local with that information......as if....LOL.....But seriously, thank for giving me that number as it will help. Maybe 6 Roblees can cross referrence the part as I'm sure shipping will kill me otherwise.

Anyway, I apreciate your insights and I repacked everything today, replaced everything that needed to be replaced, and put some new bearing buddies on the ends. Hopefully that ended the water intrusion problems on the one hub - the other one looked as if I packed yesterday.

I will keep you guys posted as to what I find - if anything......

Tim
 
Have you tried the speedy sleeves? You drive them on and break off the edge. They give you a new surface for the seal to run on. I had one spindle that was leaking and I bought parts from a local shop and it still leaked. I then bought bearing and seals from Easyloader and it solve the leak issue. I asked how much was an axle at the time and was told $500 per axle for torsion axles.
 
As you mauy know I bought a 1989 22 with a single axle trailer a few months ago. It was quite apparent the trailer brake system and bearing assembly had been repaired over the years, with parts from miscellaneous manufacturers. My local trailer shop recommended complete assemblies from a manufacter named Dexter. If you order the entire assembly it comes with new races and matching bearings, as well as the brakes and drums. I think you can buy the stuff on line or frm your local trailer shop.
I opted to have a local/reputable shop do the work. They ended-up replacing some or rodeo brake lines and the brake fluid as well as replacing the spindles and the brake drums or about $900.00. I think I could have saved $300.00 if I had done the work myself...
 
U can buy a new axle set up . There is a place that builds them to fit . I think they use stainless axle stubs that are replaceable . If u do a search on hear you should find them. The one I know about is in Longview Washington. My axle is going to be changed out to.I have the same problem . Most of the new trailers have replacible stubs . Good Luck they can be a pain. ( you haven't lived to you have replaced the bearings in 100 degree heat in the middle of no where) Just checked POTTER WEBSTER COMPANY LONGVIEW
Richard
 
Try champion Trailer parts online. They custom made a v-shaped 6000# axle for about $500. Fit perfectly and gave great advice on the phone. Think they are out of Louisiana.
 
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