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Floorboards c-dory 19Ft
- Thread starter ZoeB
- Start date
To my knowledge your only options are:
1) Dri-deck or similar. You can buy something similar for about 1/4 the money at Home Depot. That's what I used in my 22. The pluses of these tiles are: a) Easy to install b) Easy to remove and clean under (and you will want to clean under them occasionally) c) Not so tall - this keeps more of your legs below the top edge of the sides of the boat and increases safety a tad. d) Keeps your feet dry when there's not much water in the boat. The downsides are: a) Not particularly good looking relative to some nice floor boards b) The floor remains curved c) You can see the stuff that collects in all the holes (this can be viewed as a plus since you can easily clean).
2) Build your own floor boards.
3) Pay someone else to build your own floor boards.
I don't think the factory made floor boards for the 19's but I could be wrong.
1) Dri-deck or similar. You can buy something similar for about 1/4 the money at Home Depot. That's what I used in my 22. The pluses of these tiles are: a) Easy to install b) Easy to remove and clean under (and you will want to clean under them occasionally) c) Not so tall - this keeps more of your legs below the top edge of the sides of the boat and increases safety a tad. d) Keeps your feet dry when there's not much water in the boat. The downsides are: a) Not particularly good looking relative to some nice floor boards b) The floor remains curved c) You can see the stuff that collects in all the holes (this can be viewed as a plus since you can easily clean).
2) Build your own floor boards.
3) Pay someone else to build your own floor boards.
I don't think the factory made floor boards for the 19's but I could be wrong.
nordicstallion
New member
When I first got my 19 I had problems with excess water sloshing around on the deck that made rubber boots a requirement. I briefly considered the addition of floorboards. I could pump out most of the water but it would soon be back. I finally found the source of the problem in the bilge pump plumbing. The discharge tube that went up to the discharge thru hull fitting but didn't go up above the discharge fitting to create a high spot so that as waves or chop could not come in thru the bilge pump. Once I put in a longer discharge tube that went above the fitting & then back down to the fitting the problem was gone. The deck is always wet or at least damp as the pump won't pump every last drop of water so as the boat rolls the residual water temporarily migrates out of the sump then back again. Not a problem, I always wear rubber boots anyway. Hope this helps. I didn't like the idea of pulling the floorboards every time to clean out all the fermenting fish blood & parts. Vern
we put industrial closed cell foam flooring over the dri deck on the first 22. This allowed circulation of water, and any debris under the dri deck, yet a comfortable footing surface. The material came from SAMS at that time. It held up well,and went with the boat when we sold it.
Thanks everyone.
I am waiting to hear back from the factory on specifics, but they sent me an email saying that they do have floorboards for the 19 ft angler. They replied to my email saying "You are able to get them through the factory.
The floor boards are $600.00 each or $1800 for the set of 3". I sent a follow up to get more details.
Probably going to opt to have a local build them for the Zoe B.
I am waiting to hear back from the factory on specifics, but they sent me an email saying that they do have floorboards for the 19 ft angler. They replied to my email saying "You are able to get them through the factory.
The floor boards are $600.00 each or $1800 for the set of 3". I sent a follow up to get more details.
Probably going to opt to have a local build them for the Zoe B.
When I visited Triton in the summer of 2012, they had the molds for floorboards for the 19 (but not for the 22). If I remember correctly, they looked just like the 22 boards, but of course a bit shorter fore-and-aft (which would mean two pieces with a split running down the middle from the door to the splashwell).
$1800 for set of three? That's outrageous! When we bought our 2005 CD22 new, we ordered floorboards. I may be off a little bit but I'm pretty sure that was an option for 2 floorboards priced at $500 give or take. I'll check my original quote at home. But surely nowhere near $1800 or even $1000. And like Bob stated, we only have the 2 floorboards for our CD22, I'm not sure why you would need 3? We really love the floor boards. They make it really easy to pull up and clean both the floor boards and the floor, plus of course the cockpit floor is flat. Totally glad we chose that option.ZoeB":k0h4s3po said:Thanks everyone.
I am waiting to hear back from the factory on specifics, but they sent me an email saying that they do have floorboards for the 19 ft angler. They replied to my email saying "You are able to get them through the factory.
The floor boards are $600.00 each or $1800 for the set of 3". I sent a follow up to get more details.
Probably going to opt to have a local build them for the Zoe B.
I know there are a few craftsman on the site who fabricated their own floorboards. Check out the pics in their album, especially if you will be hiring somebody to make them for you. Good luck in your search.
As I recall the third floorboard for the 19 fits between the two seat boxes, making a level floor that has no lip at the aft end of the seat boxes. The 22 floorboards end at the bulkhead.
To me, the factory floorboards in the 19, take away cabin headroom and cockpit side height, plus you add weight to the transom.
Robbi
To me, the factory floorboards in the 19, take away cabin headroom and cockpit side height, plus you add weight to the transom.
Robbi
An additional comment with a couple of caveats:
I have a set of 22 "factory" floorboards. I bought them from another 22 (the owner didn't use them so they were stored in the garage), which, if I remember correctly, was a 2003 model. Anyway, I was thrilled to get them, they looked to be in very nice shape, and I like the function.
To make a long story short, a couple of "little" issues had me delving into them to take what I thought would be minor corrective measures. Instead I found the construction to be so poor, and the issues so extensive (due to the construction methods) that to fix them would be very costly and time consuming (I have the tools and the know-how, so it's not that) -- to the point that I'm not sure whether I'm going to fix them up, or just make a set from scratch. Basically, they were not made very well.
The new builder very well be making them differently and better (and or perhaps the issues were particular to this one set). However, I would want to check before forking out that sort of money. They are very nice in that they fit well, look good, and look "built in" since they have rounded corners and matching gelcoat.
Home-made ones might be able to be made lighter, but I'm not sure. If so it would be a plus (not that the "factory" ones are super heavy, but they are not super light either).
Sunbeam
I have a set of 22 "factory" floorboards. I bought them from another 22 (the owner didn't use them so they were stored in the garage), which, if I remember correctly, was a 2003 model. Anyway, I was thrilled to get them, they looked to be in very nice shape, and I like the function.
To make a long story short, a couple of "little" issues had me delving into them to take what I thought would be minor corrective measures. Instead I found the construction to be so poor, and the issues so extensive (due to the construction methods) that to fix them would be very costly and time consuming (I have the tools and the know-how, so it's not that) -- to the point that I'm not sure whether I'm going to fix them up, or just make a set from scratch. Basically, they were not made very well.
The new builder very well be making them differently and better (and or perhaps the issues were particular to this one set). However, I would want to check before forking out that sort of money. They are very nice in that they fit well, look good, and look "built in" since they have rounded corners and matching gelcoat.
Home-made ones might be able to be made lighter, but I'm not sure. If so it would be a plus (not that the "factory" ones are super heavy, but they are not super light either).
Sunbeam
C-addiction
New member
The factory deck plates in my 19 angler.
It is nice to have the flat deck throughout, although the plates give and tend to slide around a bit. You definitely need to remember to remove them when cleaning or the smell will drive you out of the boat.
It is nice to have the flat deck throughout, although the plates give and tend to slide around a bit. You definitely need to remember to remove them when cleaning or the smell will drive you out of the boat.
C-addiction":3i6gklq8 said:... although the plates give and tend to slide around a bit.
The "give" may be because yours are built and/or failing like mine did (which may not be how they build them now). Mine weren't to the "giving" stage yet, but would have been shortly. I found a couple of hairline cracks on the underside corresponding roughly with where one would step in from the cockpit. Figured I would enlarge them a bit, fiberglass, and be done with it. However...
As I opened up the crack I found wet core, and worse, it just went on and on. I ended up dissecting most of the board (due to the wet core and what I was finding), and I believe that certain characteristics of the construction caused both the cracks and the extreme water spread. I've been meaning to write this up, but in brief:
If your boards are like mine, you will see fore-and-aft "steps" or levels on the underside. This is so they can be thicker in the center and thinner where the hull starts to curve up toward the sides. The way mine were built, each "level" was a separate piece of core, and there were very large gaps running the full length between each piece, corresponding with the level changes. These were not filled with anything. The fiberglass was all chopped mat, from what I could tell (weak).
So, the large gaps created weak-point, "lines" the length of the floorboards, the fiberglass was weak anyway, and this allowed the easy formation of longitudinal cracks. The large gaps also allowed any water that found its way into said cracks (not hard when it is the bottom of a floorboard) to travel easily through the floorboard, soaking the core as it went. Wet core, gaps, etc. will all let the floorboard "give," instead of being firm as it should be.
I bought my floorboards used, but they had mostly been stored in a garage. After very little use, I found the cracks, opened them up, and now I'm not sure whether I will repair them or just build my own. I do like the look and fit. It
It would be nice if they were putting them together better now (and they very well may be).
South of Heaven
New member
ZoeB":1yxux4t6 said:So I never did order the factory deck plates for the Zoe B, and now am considering putting in a wood deck/grating. I do remember seeing a wood deck on a c-dory in the past, if anyone knows the post or can direct me to the pictures I would appreciate it.
Thanks.
SUBSCRIBED! I am doing a faux teak flooring in my 19. I took measurements and also had some rough measurements from Greg (Aurelia).
It's gonna be a bear of a DIY project but I'm gonna do it myself. I'm gonna leave my electronics mods and more involved engine maintenance to my mechanic (I'll do oils and filters) so I told myself I'd tackle the boat cleaning, detailing, waxing and wood flooring....LOL. And believe me; My new boat is gonna need A LOT of detailing. I'm anticipating a full day of work or maybe more. Just the exterior may take me a full day, I've never waxed a boat before.
Flooring: I'm going with PlasDeck/PlasTeak. They are both the same company but the "deck" is for exterior applications and "teak" is for interior. It's gonna take a lot of sanding and prep work; plus the cockpit and helm floor is concave so that will add it's own unique difficulties. I'm NOT gonna lay down any flooring in the cuddy or in the square area near the fuel tanks. Just the cockpit, aisle and helm area.
There are lots of other faux teak companies but this brand kept coming up and had good reviews on the East Coast. I'd suggest you do your own research and see what you find.
There are some good C Brats threads about it....To your question about "pics from other Brats", check this out. This is C Brats porn IMHO! LOL! Love this guys boat... This was the inspiration for my boat.
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php
Love what they did to Tinker Toy.
I think i am going with real wood as i want to eliminate the pitch in the deck and create a bilge. I do a lot of spearfishing and crabbing from the boat so it would be good for the cockpit to drain, or at least to not be standing in water.
I don't mind as much during the summer, but when I wear shoes during the winter it always creates mud.
I think i am going with real wood as i want to eliminate the pitch in the deck and create a bilge. I do a lot of spearfishing and crabbing from the boat so it would be good for the cockpit to drain, or at least to not be standing in water.
I don't mind as much during the summer, but when I wear shoes during the winter it always creates mud.
South of Heaven
New member
ZoeB":c2oflav0 said:Love what they did to Tinker Toy.
I think i am going with real wood as i want to eliminate the pitch in the deck and create a bilge. I do a lot of spearfishing and crabbing from the boat so it would be good for the cockpit to drain, or at least to not be standing in water.
I don't mind as much during the summer, but when I wear shoes during the winter it always creates mud.
Well, the PlasDeck will add about a 1/4 or so of thickness. I'm not sure how much added thickness you'll need to make a flat floor......BUT since you're a fisherman/crabber then I'd strongly suggest that you do your due diligence before adding real wood.. I can't imagine real wood holding up better than faux teak in a salt water fishing environment.
This is an educated guess, BUT I think that "Tinker Toy" does more cruising than fishing. Lol. Just a guess. Who knows?! Maybe he's actually an avid fisherman and can shut me up!
nordicstallion
New member
I think pulling the deck flooring out to wash out the fish slime, blood and guts is far too much hassle just to have a flat spot to stand & keep your blue suede shoes dry. I just bought rubber boots. But then I don't have standing water in the boat