I lost all pressure in the fresh water system this weekend. Not a drop from either sink despite the pump running continuously. I traced the problem to the outflow hose from the electric water heater. It had come off of one of the two T connectors located under an access port beneath the sink in the head. No hose clamp was seen, but it may have fallen into an inaccessible area of that compartment. I got the hose reattached and clamped, but not before accumulating 1/2 inch of water in that compartment that doesn't drain to the bilge and is really hard to get to. I finally settled on a turkey baster. The starboard lazerette also flooded, but that was easier to clean up. I surmised that hot water in that hose might have caused it to loosen, especially if the hose clamp was missing or not tight. Just a heads up that you may want to check that all the hose clamps in that area are tight.
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Fresh water leak
- Thread starter Lizzie G
- Start date
Greetings, Don't neglect to drain your lines this in preperation for the winter. I didn't, it was my first winter in Bend and guess what? My hot water tank froze and cracked. I'm alot more familiar with my water system now. I was able to remove the water tank and have it welded. Replaced the tank myself. Total cost of this new experiene was $30.00 and frustration. I also had plenty of water to mop up. I suggested to our C Dory factory that they could do a better job of providing information regarding winterization, but bottom line it was my own ignorance that caused the problem and it won't happen again.
Hopefully C Ranger is not using the dreaded "Bostik" sealant on hoses. You should consider double clamping hoses. I did have one boat's water system where I had recurrent problems with hot water side of the facets--and eventually put flexiable "form a gasket" on the hose barb, then double clamped the tubing.
This was the source of most of our problems on the shake down cruise on the 25 ranger. I have hull # 6 . How long or how many hulls it took for them to educate their employes, I don't know. From the time I picked up the boat I knew it needed double hose clamps. The sewer line came loose and pumped a lot into the bilge. Than the water line let loose and dumped all the fresh water into the bilge. Wefing double hose clamped a lot of the connections that they could get to. Later guess what?.......They put a through hull in for salt water wash down and single clamped it. Those are the connections that cause boats to sink right at the dock. You would think, as hard as it is to get to some of these fitting under the deck, they would do everything possible, as they are building, to be sure the are no leaks or jammed hose clamps that didn't tighten properly, before the top deck is put in. I will never feel confident about the through hull fitting or the water and sewer lines that I cannot see or get to. One of the connections that I found when it was leaking was a jammed clamp the could not be tightened anymore and the clamp was actually loose on the hose. That was an easy one.
Captd
Captd
Another simple "solution" is to keep a socket which will fit the hex head on the hose clamp. It is much easier to get these clamps tight with a socket, than a screwdriver. The sizes are 5/16, 1/4 and 5/32 inches. I have one of the multi blade screw drivers which has sockets built into the handle--I also have a small set which has a right angle screw driver, or sockets, so you can get into cramped places.
Also, not all hose clamps are created equal. There are some which are finely machined all SS. There are those on the other end, with just slits cut in the strap, and the screw or screw housing is ferrous. Try and find the best hose clamps you can find--especially for below the water line fittings.
Also, not all hose clamps are created equal. There are some which are finely machined all SS. There are those on the other end, with just slits cut in the strap, and the screw or screw housing is ferrous. Try and find the best hose clamps you can find--especially for below the water line fittings.
Buck Adams
New member
Dan,
Thanks for tracing the problem. I have been trying to trace a fresh water leak since the first week I've had BiZness. Similar problem is being experienced by a friend on his R-25. My pump came on constantly and I quickly ran out of fresh water. I used a Topside siphon can this weekend to pull out 2 1/2 gallons from directly beneath the helm station. I found it by pulling out the cabin heater exchange box right under the helm. I thought the problem was probably coming off the the water pressure pump that rests immediately above where I found the water, but the fittings were dry and for the life of me I couldn't find a drop coming off the pump or hoses.
I pulled the inspection plate under the head sink when I was first troubleshooting the problem, but didn't see any water at the time. Is the fitting you're referring to immediately visible when you pull the plate, or somewhere further aft? Thanks. Buck
Thanks for tracing the problem. I have been trying to trace a fresh water leak since the first week I've had BiZness. Similar problem is being experienced by a friend on his R-25. My pump came on constantly and I quickly ran out of fresh water. I used a Topside siphon can this weekend to pull out 2 1/2 gallons from directly beneath the helm station. I found it by pulling out the cabin heater exchange box right under the helm. I thought the problem was probably coming off the the water pressure pump that rests immediately above where I found the water, but the fittings were dry and for the life of me I couldn't find a drop coming off the pump or hoses.
I pulled the inspection plate under the head sink when I was first troubleshooting the problem, but didn't see any water at the time. Is the fitting you're referring to immediately visible when you pull the plate, or somewhere further aft? Thanks. Buck
mikeporterinmd
New member
Sea Wolf":1yl9wvsx said:captd wrote:
"From the time I picked up the boat I knew it needed double hose clamps."
Isn't this one of the simplest and most fundamental ABYC standards, and required of all boats certified by them, or at least a common sense imperatiave?
Joe.
Double for hoses below the water line (any hose, that if it let loose, would
cause the boat to sink.)
Mike
Buck -
The two T-connectors are just visible through the inspection plate under the sink in the head, but I couldn't see the hose that had come loose until I stuck a small mirror and flashlight into the compartment. The fresh water system is working fine now, but I worry how many other potentially loose connections there might be in even less accessible locations. My new operating procedure for the sinks is to turn on the pump only when I'm using the water and then let the pressure drop.
The two T-connectors are just visible through the inspection plate under the sink in the head, but I couldn't see the hose that had come loose until I stuck a small mirror and flashlight into the compartment. The fresh water system is working fine now, but I worry how many other potentially loose connections there might be in even less accessible locations. My new operating procedure for the sinks is to turn on the pump only when I'm using the water and then let the pressure drop.
Buck Adams
New member
Dan,
Thanks so much for the follow-on info on the leak. I'll get an inspection mirror and take a look. I'll also take a look on my friend's Ranger and see if that's the source of the "mystery" leak on his vessel.
I toured the factory a few weeks back (it was great...Andrew spent an entire morning showing me how the R-25 is put together and Dave Livingston and I had the opportunity to spend quite a bit of time together. Casey in the front office was terrific too, as was everyone I got to meet). I took reams of video at different stages of the build-up and had the opportunity to see how different systems are put together. It's really handy to see what's where on board.
Here's one source of a potential fresh water leak I noticed during my tour. Behind the cabinet beneath the galley sink there is a T-fitting that has no access to it once the cabinets are in. If the leak is there, you are in big trouble. Andrew and I discussed putting in an inspection hatch through the back of the cabinet immediately to the right side of the fridge. A cut through there should avoid the hoses and the T-fitting, but give you access to it. If I have to resort to that, I'll start with a small hole and get a look in there before I go cutting out an inspection hatch.
Thanks again Dan
Buck on "BiZness"
Thanks so much for the follow-on info on the leak. I'll get an inspection mirror and take a look. I'll also take a look on my friend's Ranger and see if that's the source of the "mystery" leak on his vessel.
I toured the factory a few weeks back (it was great...Andrew spent an entire morning showing me how the R-25 is put together and Dave Livingston and I had the opportunity to spend quite a bit of time together. Casey in the front office was terrific too, as was everyone I got to meet). I took reams of video at different stages of the build-up and had the opportunity to see how different systems are put together. It's really handy to see what's where on board.
Here's one source of a potential fresh water leak I noticed during my tour. Behind the cabinet beneath the galley sink there is a T-fitting that has no access to it once the cabinets are in. If the leak is there, you are in big trouble. Andrew and I discussed putting in an inspection hatch through the back of the cabinet immediately to the right side of the fridge. A cut through there should avoid the hoses and the T-fitting, but give you access to it. If I have to resort to that, I'll start with a small hole and get a look in there before I go cutting out an inspection hatch.
Thanks again Dan
Buck on "BiZness"