Help Fitting Bimini for 22 Cruiser

C

cbbernard

New member
Hello, C-Brats

Looking to purchase and install an aftermarket bimini for my 2005 22 Cruiser. I've read a ton of helpful posts on here and done a ton more research, but having never fitted a bimini on a boat before, I have a few questions you might be able to help with.

I'm looking at three arch bimini. The length seems standardized at 72 inches.

1. Is a 46" height right? When mounted to the gunwales, that would put it at about 77", high enough for me at 6'3". It would have to slope up from the back of the cabin roof (at 68").

2. Do I measure the width to the INSIDES of the gunwales or the OUTSIDES?

3. My plan is to attach snaps to the cabin roof and bimini edge—will this work?

I appreciate any help you all can provide and hope to tap into your collective experience and save myself a headache or two.

Thanks!

cb
 
Almost all of the C Dorys (and many other boats) is to use either a plastic or metal "Awning rail" on the top of the cabin. This will ensure a watertight attachment. There is a small piece which fits into the awning rail, and then zippers to the rest of the Bimini. This also allows for opening this area, and getting more ventilation if necessary.

The attachments for the Bimini bows are usually on the top of the gunwale or inside the gunwale. Not outside. You can bring the Bimini as far aft as you wish.

Are. you buying something like a "Taylor" stock item, or are you having a local canvas maker do the work? If you handy, this may be a time to start to be your own canvas worker? Sailrite has good support and patterns. Although their sewing machines are outstanding, I have used both an older Brother and Paff heavy duty sewing machines.

Look at different methods of mounting--side vs top. One of my 22's had a sliding track on the inside of the gunwale, so the the bottom attachment could slide to allow the Bimini to fit inside the cockpit when down. Measure to the inside.

3 bows are the "norm', but I have had 4 bows. SS Bows are better than Aluminum, At least 3/4" in diameter. I would use zippers, not snaps between the piece going to the awning rail. If yo want to use "fittings" use common sense fittings, not snaps on the two pieces of canvas.

I believe that the 46" should be OK.
 
Bob,

This is helpful. Thank you.

I'm looking at a standard three-bow bimini from National. It would be 72" long, 46" high, and if I'm measuring to the inside of the gunwales, 75" wide.

I've read about the bimini attachment point on the C-Dory cabin, but I have not seen it in person and cannot picture it in my mind. How do I make this happen? I have a friend who can sew a zipper onto the edge of the bimini, but is there a piece I buy that fits the cabin channel with the zipper mount on it?

Thanks!
 
This shows the canvas between the Bimini and the awning railing (plastic all along the back side of the cabin house). Go to Sailrite web page and search for Awning Rail. Then how to make a Bimini.

camper_1.sized.jpg

The second photo is of the free standing Bimini, (custom made) with out the cloth tying the awning rail on the back of the cabin house, to the top:
 
Looks like you're getting advice on how to build your own bimini, or at least for what to ask.

There's another approach. One that guarantees a good fit. You could call your bimini maker and haul the boat over to them. Give your input and have them build and install to their dimensions. That way the thigie will fit, or it's their nickle. The molds for the hull and cabin really haven't changed over the years.

When we bought the boat, it came with a bimini from Kings Marine Canvas, in Seattle, but that's a little far from you.

Boris
 
My 22 came with a bimini that the PO put on. It is a 3rd party one from Talyor or Attwood or the like (label is too faded to read). It is 3-bow mounted to the gunwales. Mine does not attach to the cabin roof, but has straps at the front and back.

The advantage to the straps is that the angle of the bimini can be adjusted fore and aft a bit as needed depending on where the sun is. For instance, if the sun is off the stern, the bimini can be angled more to the stern for better protection. The disadvantage to the straps is that it is not attached to the cabin roof and if it is raining, water can come through the gap. This can be mitigated by angling the bimini more to the front.

The bimini is sized so that when it is stowed it rides on the top rear of the cabin roof and is secured to the roof hand rails for towing.

These pictures show the bimini stowed and deployed.

P7280026_1_sm.sized.jpg

1020779_G.sized.jpg
 
here's another approach. One that guarantees a good fit. You could call your bimini maker and haul the boat over to them
Click to expand...

I'm fortunate that our area has a guy pretty well known for the excellent work he does in boat covers and such. He's the one that has built my biminis and covers. If you can find a shop such as this, unless you have the knowledge to do your own, it's probably worth it. Colby
 
Thank you all for the good advice and photos.

Long-term, I plan to have one custom made by a local shop. But since we bought the boat last summer, we've been pouring a ton of money into fixing her up. The short term solution seems to be to buy a generic one for a few hundred bucks (less than a full Boat Unit!) and make do for five years or so. If I can keep the Admiral out of the bright sun and rain, she'll be more inclined to let me invest more down the road.

Ssobol, your setup looks like it's similar to the aftermarket ones I'm considering. I appreciate the photos.
 
I bought one of these for my 22 Angler, I got a bigger one because of the longer cockpit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GZDTGLO/

It's huge. I got the 54" tall one because I have a couple tall friends, but I wish I got the 48" one. That said, it was on a "Like New" Amazon Warehouse deal so I got it for under $100. I've replaced some of the hardware for stainless steel, specifically to mount inside the gunnels.

- tom
 
thataway":3e654fii said:
Almost all of the C Dorys (and many other boats) is to use either a plastic or metal "Awning rail" on the top of the cabin. This will ensure a watertight attachment. There is a small piece which fits into the awning rail, and then zippers to the rest of the Bimini. This also allows for opening this area, and getting more ventilation if necessary.

The attachments for the Bimini bows are usually on the top of the gunwale or inside the gunwale. Not outside. You can bring the Bimini as far aft as you wish.

Are. you buying something like a "Taylor" stock item, or are you having a local canvas maker do the work? If you handy, this may be a time to start to be your own canvas worker? Sailrite has good support and patterns. Although their sewing machines are outstanding, I have used both an older Brother and Paff heavy duty sewing machines.

Look at different methods of mounting--side vs top. One of my 22's had a sliding track on the inside of the gunwale, so the the bottom attachment could slide to allow the Bimini to fit inside the cockpit when down. Measure to the inside.

3 bows are the "norm', but I have had 4 bows. SS Bows are better than Aluminum, At least 3/4" in diameter. I would use zippers, not snaps between the piece going to the awning rail. If yo want to use "fittings" use common sense fittings, not snaps on the two pieces of canvas.

I believe that the 46" should be OK.
Click to expand...





Thanks for the information. Actually, I am looking into using a sewing machine to sew internal parts of purses and handbags. Still want to hand stitch outer leather. The machine would be used to sew mainly fabric to the leather interior. Would the Pfaff 60 work. I know it's not a singer 155, but what do you think?

I read here, that most of the Vintage domestic straight stitch machines can do thinner leather, and perhaps the Pfaff 60 can be a bit more expensive to get. Alternatives are Singer 201, Singer 15, Pfaff 30, and many brands of Japanese-made machines. If you sew a combined thickness of leather below 1.5 mm, I think the drop feed machines are likely to produce a better-balanced stitch than a combined feed walking foot machine.

However, a combined feed walking foot machine will cause fewer marks on the leather on the lower side from the feed dogs, and you got much more controllable and consistent feed. But drop feed machines are simple to maintain and use, and if you add a speed reducer you will find them easy to control as well. What do you say about it...?
 
My Pfaff is a 332, late 40's vintage, made in Germany with all metal gears. Any of the Pfaff's of this vintage (up until the 60's) should have all metal gears and be fine for reasonable leather sewing. The size of thread is somewhat limited (by the needles). If you have a Pfaff 60 it should be fine.

I do most of my heavy leather sewing by hand, with the punch to mark and make the holes, and then use two leather (blunt tip) needles for the hand sewing. Some projects I use a "Speedy Stitcher Awl". This allows the heaviest thread you can get and a good lock stitch.

I have used my friend's Consew, which has a 1 hp motor and foot clutch. Hang on and keep your fingers clear! (I sewed thru a finger when I was about 11 years old doing sails for a model boat. It was an old treadle Singer machine.)

There are some cheaper Chinese machines which appear to be very similar to the Sailrite machine. However the Sailrite is smoother, and more refined.
 
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