How about...a Marinaut 25?

L

Les Lampman

New member
Obviously this subject has come up for us from time to time and I've had quite a few emails asking about a larger Marinaut as well. So I'm posting this to get some feedback and think about where we'll take it.

First, my thoughts. My intention is to make a larger M215 and not something altogether different. I want the same look, the same features, and the same great running hull. I don't want to lose what makes the M215 work as well as it does.

I'd lengthen the M215 by 42" (3' 6"); 30" of that would be to accommodate an enclosed head space in the aft starboard corner of the cabin, 6" would go to having a fixed v-berth, and 6" would go into the cockpit.

A larger Marinaut (I'll call it the M25) would be 8' 6" wide, the hull would be a bit deeper (than the M215) and the cabin a bit taller; mostly to keep the boat in proportion but also to add the needed headroom for an enclosed head/shower compartment. The hull shape would be as close as possible to the existing M215 and the overall "look" would stay the same.

I'd retain the "floor pan" all-one-piece and same level (for the most part) concept. There would be a step over sill (door threshold) as in the M215 but no big step down into the main cabin. The aft cabin bulkhead would be fixed and not removable; I think in a 25-footer it's likely needed for structural support (hull and cabin top) and it's needed as the aft wall of the head compartment. Besides which, a removable bulkhead on a 25-footer would be very unwieldy (heavy and awkward).

The layout would be essentially the same as a C-Dory 25/Tomcat (and about a bazillion other boats). That layout has been around for decades and it works so I see no reason to change it. The enclosed head would be in the aft starboard corner of the cabin and the galley/helm ahead of that. A storage cabinet would be in the aft port corner with the dinette ahead of that. Basic, simple, and it works.

My goal would be to have the M25 end up about 1,000 pounds or so heavier than the M215 and for it to have good economy and performance with a 150-hp outboard. And so that it could be towed by smaller vehicles and be very easy to launch and retrieve.

Pricing is a whole 'nuther thing. I've still got a lot of homework to do but my goal would be to have it price out about 1/2 again as much as the M215. So around $70K for the base boat; with standard equipment but before power, trailer, electronics, and accessories.

I could probably add a lot more but I think there's enough detail there to get the conversation started. As always all (well intentioned and polite) comments and thoughts are welcome.
 
Hi Les,

My current boat is a CD22 and I am thinking of a larger boat next, so I like the idea. As a bigger guy (6'3" tall and 200+ lbs) I would like to see the M25 accomodate someone my size. Specifically, I would like signifcant headroom in the cabin...enough to stand up straight with an inch or two to spare under an optional roof mounted AC unit. Also important would be a 6'6" berth for extended cruising, and a table that holds at least 3, if not 4 people comfortably.

Other things I would be looking at are sizable fuel and water tanks and functional storage spaces. While I have a single engine now, on an extended cruising boat, the option of twin engines would be a plus. One last thing I can think of off the top of my head is an optional hard top for the cockpit. This option on the Rosborough seems extremely functional for dingy storage, solar panels, and minimizing canvas in the cockpit enclosure.

I am looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

Rob
 
Great to heat this. I have been after Dave about it for a year. The key things I would like to see are a 4 person table like in Rogers 25 cruise ship, More fuel, more water storage, and more storage. Now I know you are opposed to the raised cockpit concept because of the build cost and the weight but man I have to tell you how much use I get out of it on my 27. Not to mention the "oh my" factor when I show it to people ( keep it clean people) . I think that the space on the M215 that was freed up by moving the fuel tanks to the side could be better used as built in storage and that would make up for a not having the under deck storage I have now.

Will you have a storage closet across from the head? full or half?

Head room in the M215 is great and at 6ft I find a lot of boats lacking but you have to stop somewhere. My fishing buddy Cliff is 6'7". you would need a 7 foot tall roof to fit him, or a hole he could stick his head out??

Rob as far as a air conditioner goes, Move to a better climate :wink: :wink: its worth it. Water turning to ice or steam is someones way of telling you to move :lol:
 
Hi Rob,

Thanks very much for the reply, it's great to get the input.

Cabin headroom won't be a problem.

At 5' 10" I can lay down on the fixed section of the v-berth in the M215, so we should end up about 6' 4" down the centerline (and maybe a bit more on the diagonal) on an M25. Working toward 6' 6" should not be too tough.

The math for an 8' 6" wide boat doesn't support a 4-person dinette very well (unless you shade the meaning of that). Assuming the dinette is at the widest point of the boat (and it should be close) we'll subtract a foot for the two side decks (6" each); then we'll subtract 30" (2.5 feet) for the central passageway; then we'll subtract 24" (2 feet) for the helm seat area (which includes the space needed for the engine controller) and galley counter. That leaves us about 36" (3 feet) for the dinette width. It should really be about 48" wide (at least) for 4 adults.

There are places we can fudge things but as you see if you start out with a 8.5' wide boat and subtract 4 feet for the dinette you've only got 4.5' to play with for the center aisle, galley/helm, and side decks. Since it would be difficult to get the helm in much less than about 2' in width and side decks much smaller than 6" in width are uncomfortable we're down to 1.5' (18") in width for a central passageway with a 4' wide dinette, and that's awfully tight for a lot of folks.

Sizable fuel and water are kind of open for interpretation but I do understand what you're getting at. I haven't done all the calculations yet but I think the fuel capacity on the M25 (as imagined) would be around 75 gallons (in standard tanks) with an option to go to around 100 gallons (or maybe a bit more).

I haven't really nailed down the water capacity yet. Partly it depends on how much room with the larger hull we end up with under the cabin deck. That area may (or may not) play out to be a good place for a water tank (with an access panel of course). If not we'd likely use a bow tank as we do in the M215 though we may be able to find one that's a bit larger. I wouldn't go above about 20 gallons there though just because it's in a rotten place for lots of weight (even on a 25-footer).

Another option is to mold in a sunken area in the storage cabinet area (to port as you enter the cabin) that would hold either a larger water tank or perhaps an optional additional water tank in addition to the bow tank. Likely, at least for built-in tanks, I wouldn't go above about 40 gallons total (it would be 35 gallons if we used the 15-gallon bow tank and a 20-gallon second tank). More could always be carried in the storage areas under the aft deck.

I'm not sure about the change to the transom. I still think the average person loses far more than they gain by having to design the motorwell to accommodate twin engines. And if we offer both that means different molds and that we can't afford so it's got to be one way or the other. Right now I'd opt for staying with a single engine motorwell: it means there's no way for the weight of water in the motorwell to affect the boat, it means that there's much more storage under the aft decks (around the motorwell), and it means I don't have to worry about as much weight variance.

The M25 would be designed to run with a single 150. In a 4-stroke that's about 500 pounds of engine. With a kicker motor on a bracket we'd add about 125 pounds to that for a total of 625 pounds.

Now (rhetorically), what twins would one choose for a M25? Probably not a pair of BF60's that would weigh about 564 pounds (for the pair) because a lot of folks will not think that's enough. So that likely means a pair of 90's (I don't know of any 75's that are being built with 25" shafts...and they're the same engine/weight as the 90s anyway). Now we're at about 800 pounds (for the pair). The M25 would handle that but I'd be uncomfortable saying that it would handle that, and larger fuel tanks, and more water. Even a BF225 and kicker is lighter at 700-odd pounds and I don't think the M25 will need that much power.

In addition the helm area would have to be reworked and changed to accommodate two sets of engine gauges and to allow space for dual engine controls. And instead of two batteries (one starting, one house) the transom area would have to accommodate three batteries (two starting, one house); so more space and more weight.

All-in-all my decision at this point would be to stay with a single engine (and kicker) configuration. I can't see the expense and hassle of tooling up for twin engines when most boats (based on history) will be equipped with singles and I'd rather not take more away from the boat in terms of space for twin engines, extra controls, gauges, and batteries (which would affect all boats, not just those with twins).

ON EDIT: I forgot to address the hard cockpit top. I think it's a great idea. Thanks.

Les
 
Since you asked-

(And your last post happened while I was typing)

Double wide dinette would be a must, as many buyers wanted to feed four. The wider dinette would also make a better bed for two. Do buyers really end up traveling with another couple? Not that often, but they love the idea of doing it, and the double wide dinette would help sell boats.

The head of the 26 Venture is roomier than the 25 Cruiser- I would lean toward it's design (with holding tank seperate from the toilet itself).

Maintain the openness of the V-Berth- I think it makes the boat feel bigger.

Larger water capacity- especially if hot water and shower are available (40 gallons?)- option for a dockside water hook up to supplement the capacity when at the dock.

We really liked the 26 Venture as a boat- the one drawback was the narrow dinette. If that boat had had a double width dinette we could have sold a few of them.

Single versus twin debate- if the design works best as a single like the 215, then stick with single w/ kicker option.

Price- I think if you could hit $70K you'd have a winner. realistically- I don't think it can be done and maintain the quality of the boat and installed components. A moderately well equipped 25 Cruiser is pushing $100,000, and the 26 Venture was pushing another $10,000 to $15,000.

If a cruiser ready boat could be under $90k, there's probably a market- But the cost of construction I think will push the boat past that. Roughly $16,000 for the motor and rigging, nearly $7,000 for the trailer, another $5000 for electronics and you'll start squeezing your margins pretty tight.

Still, if it could be done, you guys are probably the ones to do it.
 
I agree on the water tanks not being in the v-berth or larger then 20 gallons in the v-berth. I have noticed several times this year that if I get low on fuel (weight) and Susan's tops of the water at a port , then I have a hard time keeping the bow out of the water. With my boats added length placing the water in the bow is a lot farther from the balance point then in a 22.
I would really consider a tank in the floor. Lowers the center of gravity and places the water close to the balance point of the hull.
 
starcrafttom":w4zhaxq8 said:
Great to heat this. I have been after Dave about it for a year. The key things I would like to see are a 4 person table like in Rogers 25 cruise ship, More fuel, more water storage, and more storage. Now I know you are opposed to the raised cockpit concept because of the build cost and the weight but man I have to tell you how much use I get out of it on my 27. Not to mention the "oh my" factor when I show it to people ( keep it clean people) . I think that the space on the M215 that was freed up by moving the fuel tanks to the side could be better used as built in storage and that would make up for a not having the under deck storage I have now.

Will you have a storage closet across from the head? full or half?

Head room in the M215 is great and at 6ft I find a lot of boats lacking but you have to stop somewhere. My fishing buddy Cliff is 6'7". you would need a 7 foot tall roof to fit him, or a hole he could stick his head out??

Rob as far as a air conditioner goes, Move to a better climate :wink: :wink: its worth it. Water turning to ice or steam is someones way of telling you to move :lol:
Click to expand...


Hi Tom,

Thanks for the thoughts...much appreciated.

See my previous reply to why a 4-person dinette is tough. C-Dory got it in the CD25/27 by having a narrow galley, narrow passageway, and by offsetting the passageway. On the M25 (without a complete redesign totally changing the boat) I can't accommodate an off-center passageway and without that you really can't get a large dinette like Roger has in there.

The raised cockpit isn't going to happen because I have no desire to build a C-Dory clone. The whole idea is to bring to market something that isn't already there. In all ways the M25 is intended to be lighter, smaller, and simpler than a CD25 to fit in a different niche.

I don't want a boat with tall hull sides like the CD25. I don't want a boat with a lot of step-down to get from the cockpit to the cabin. I don't want a boat that weighs around 8,500 pounds when loaded and on the trailer. I want a boat that follows the signature design elements established by the M215 like the one-piece floor, and the saddle tanks, and the lines of the boat. A boat that's lighter, smaller, less expensive, more efficient, and easier to tow. Basically, it's not supposed to be a C-Dory 25, they already build those and one might as well buy the original.

That doesn't mean that any of your points are invalid, they're certainly good ones and I appreciate them. Just that a boat that meets them already exists and I don't need to make more of the same.

The storage closet across from the head (the one I described as in the aft port corner) would be half height. If it's any taller most folks get worried about visibility (how they'll ever drive a motorhome, camper van, or truck with a camper I don't know...but there it is :) ).

I don't think an air conditioner is a big deal (having installed a few). The cabin top on the M215 (the middle pop up section) is flat now and that would be carried over to the M25. I think we'll end up with a bit more headroom than called for down the center since we have to raise things enough to get headroom out near the side of the cabin (in the head compartment).

"Water turning to ice or steam is someones way for telling you to move". That's funny...and true! ;)
 
Just to check my math -- 1800 (M215) + 1000 = 2800 pounds dry weight of proposed M25?

Main engine 500 pounds, trailer 1000 (?) pounds so about 4300 pounds without fuel, water, electronics and other essential "junque".

I'm asking because the proposed boat sounds great and stripped down for transport fits in the 5000 pound towing capacity of our new Jeep Grand Cherokee. As we would be on the east coast (DelMarVA peninsula) we're talking flat land towing with water and fuel added on arrival at a launch site to keep towing weight down.

Your notion of water tank under the closet is good but if the well is there I could see sizing it for standard plastic milk jugs so that opportunity for contamination of the tank is eliminated. We used tank water for washing and bathing but rinsed dishes, drank and cooked with jug water to reduce chances of Montezuma's revenge.

Bill Uffelman
Looking for the perfect boat
Las Vegas NV and Ocean View DE
 
Matt Gurnsey":gn8hwlgb said:
Since you asked-

(And your last post happened while I was typing)

Double wide dinette would be a must, as many buyers wanted to feed four. The wider dinette would also make a better bed for two. Do buyers really end up traveling with another couple? Not that often, but they love the idea of doing it, and the double wide dinette would help sell boats.

The head of the 26 Venture is roomier than the 25 Cruiser- I would lean toward it's design (with holding tank seperate from the toilet itself).

Maintain the openness of the V-Berth- I think it makes the boat feel bigger.

Larger water capacity- especially if hot water and shower are available (40 gallons?)- option for a dockside water hook up to supplement the capacity when at the dock.

We really liked the 26 Venture as a boat- the one drawback was the narrow dinette. If that boat had had a double width dinette we could have sold a few of them.

Single versus twin debate- if the design works best as a single like the 215, then stick with single w/ kicker option.

Price- I think if you could hit $70K you'd have a winner. realistically- I don't think it can be done and maintain the quality of the boat and installed components. A moderately well equipped 25 Cruiser is pushing $100,000, and the 26 Venture was pushing another $10,000 to $15,000.

If a cruiser ready boat could be under $90k, there's probably a market- But the cost of construction I think will push the boat past that. Roughly $16,000 for the motor and rigging, nearly $7,000 for the trailer, another $5000 for electronics and you'll start squeezing your margins pretty tight.

Still, if it could be done, you guys are probably the ones to do it.
Click to expand...

Hi Matt,

Thanks so much for your comments! I honestly and sincerely appreciate them.

Man, I just don't know how to get a true 4-person dinette into an 8.5' wide boat without offsetting the passage way, sacrificing the width of the passageway, or sacrificing the side decks. It's not that I don't want that, just in all the drawings I've done and with measuring I've done I haven't come up with anything like a breakthrough yet.

Thanks for the information on the Venture 26 head compartment, I'll look into that.

I know pricing is going to be difficult and I suspect what I hope to be able to sell for and what reality will slap me upside the head with will be different. Still I had to set a goal and see how well I could do.

Based on how we usually rig a boat (that is, what customers usually end up adding) I had anticipated that a "nicely equipped" M25 would be right around $100K (give or take). With more goodies it could certainly make it to $105 or even $110. Obviously if I've missed my selling price then I'll have to adjust for that (:sad). Even if the price does creep up I'll still be able to offer a boat with an awfully lot of value in it with regard to construction and outfitting.

So maybe that's a question I should have added to the initial request for information (and I know it's a loaded question): what price would the boat have to sell for to make it attractive? This could be hull only if you know what other things will cost (like engine, trailer, etc) or it could be boat/motor/trailer price (you'll get pricing for the rest separately, or it could be pricing for a cruise ready boat.

I'd like to think we could deliver a standard M25 (no electronics or extras like heat, windlass, etc) with a Honda BF150 and on a tandem axle trailer for (say) $90K, would that do it for you? What if that number was $100K (due to true cost, not us wanting more)?

Thanks again!

Les
 
Les,

Short answer, YES. I've been bugging Dave since he started designing the Marinaut 215 to design and build a 25'. With no disrespect to current C-Dory 25 owners, I've always thought the lines of the 22 are much cleaner and nicer than the 25, IMHO. It would be nice to see how a Marinaut 25 would turn out.
 
Bill Uffelman":16gde17w said:
Just to check my math -- 1800 (M215) + 1000 = 2800 pounds dry weight of proposed M25?

Main engine 500 pounds, trailer 1000 (?) pounds so about 4300 pounds without fuel, water, electronics and other essential "junque".

I'm asking because the proposed boat sounds great and stripped down for transport fits in the 5000 pound towing capacity of our new Jeep Grand Cherokee. As we would be on the east coast (DelMarVA peninsula) we're talking flat land towing with water and fuel added on arrival at a launch site to keep towing weight down.

Your notion of water tank under the closet is good but if the well is there I could see sizing it for standard plastic milk jugs so that opportunity for contamination of the tank is eliminated. We used tank water for washing and bathing but rinsed dishes, drank and cooked with jug water to reduce chances of Montezuma's revenge.

Bill Uffelman
Looking for the perfect boat
Las Vegas NV and Ocean View DE
Click to expand...

Hi Bill,

Yes sir, you're doing your math correctly. The M215 weighs about 57 pounds per foot in completed shell form. So if we add 3.5' to get to the M25 that's another 171 pounds but I also need to account for it being 6" wider and a bit deeper. I haven't run all the numbers yet but I estimated the total at an additional 300 pounds (that's for the hull shell only). Windows won't be a lot different in weight; fuel tanks won't be a lot different it weight; water tanks won't be a lot different in weight; galley counter, helm, and dinette won't be much different in weight; but we will be adding an enclosed head space which will add some weight and of course the incremental additions (windows, tanks, etc) do add up. So I estimated the total weight gain at 1000 pounds (trying to be conservative).

I think though that you'd have to really work hard to keep your other numbers down. The wet weight of the BF115D/135/150 is 503 pounds but that doesn't include batteries or rigging items (controller, main wire harness, gauges, etc) and you'd want to use an aluminum trailer (1,000 pounds might be a bit shy but it might be doable and is close to what I can source at 1150 pounds or so). I think by really watching the weight (even when building the boat (we could use more composites for say the v-berth flat rather than 3/4" DecraGuard ply and stuff like that) and rigging the boat) that you could end up with a sub 5,000 pound outfit.

This is what the vision for the M25 is for me...a nice light package that really shares more in common with the M215 than with a CD25 (not that the CD25 is a bad thing, it's just not my vision for the M25) or similar boat. A boat that's as easy to live with as a M215 but has the enclosed head and a bit more room and still isn't a behemoth.

My inclination is to keep using the bow tank we're already doing in the M215 and to make a space available in the storage cabinet (it actually wouldn't take up much of it) for an optional (additional) tank. I'll look into making it so that milk jugs would nestle in there nicely (that's actually what we do for drinking water in our motorhome). Thanks!

Les
 
Jazzmanic":1pteqsde said:
Les,

Short answer, YES. I've been bugging Dave since he started designing the Marinaut 215 to design and build a 25'. With no disrespect to current C-Dory 25 owners, I've always thought the lines of the 22 are much cleaner and nicer than the 25, IMHO. It would be nice to see how a Marinaut 25 would turn out.
Click to expand...

Thanks Peter! My thoughts mirror your own.

We'll see how this all comes together. :)

Les
 
Keep up the good work Les. I would hate to have to explain to my wife why I need another $50K vehicle to go with a $100K boat.

Of course slips are pretty reasonable on the Delaware shore and the $50K could go for fuel and to pay someone else to haul over to the Chesapeake Bay for special occasions.

Bill Uffelman
 
Les, how's the ride of the Marinaut vs a C-Dory? My one beef w/ our 25 is the ride in any kind of chop. The boat pounds right below the helm/forward facing seats and forces us to slow waaaaay down in anything over 2', which isn't much. I also like the wider bow flare up front on the Marinaut hull, which I imagine makes the boat run much drier aft.

Your description sounds right on IMO and if the hull rides more smoothly, you'd be onto something positive IMO.
 
Les,

The four-place dinette has been done before in boats like the Olympic 24 and 26XL and Sea Sport Explorer 24 (8.5 ft. beams). The trick is to use slide out seat supports that accomodate the four people when needed but slide when not needed. The table top (hinged) can fold under or out as required.

As for the Head, I agree with Matt, the Venture head is far superior to the CD 25 and a sink (compromise for the ladies) could be added by the owner if desired.

Good storage space is a must, I wouldn't take up a cabinet to house a water tank, keep the water storage in the bow area where storage is of lower value.

Money concerns rule the buyer and builder but construction quality is a must. The M215 we viewed was an example of quality and caring workmanship coupled with top quality build materials.

We still like the 215 better (we wan't one), maybe because we've lived with several boats like the proposed M25 and the M215 offers more flexibility for mountain and ocean use (in Oregon we don't have your lovely protected waters).

Good Luck with the project.
 
Les Lampman":2bhe2s4z said:
Man, I just don't know how to get a true 4-person dinette into an 8.5' wide boat without offsetting the passage way, sacrificing the width of the passageway, or sacrificing the side decks. It's not that I don't want that, just in all the drawings I've done and with measuring I've done I haven't come up with anything like a breakthrough yet.
Click to expand...

What about being able to sit at the dinette on three sides? I have been thinking about doing that on the Tomcat and I think if I make the table slide a bit into the passageway when occupied, it would work.

dinetteS.jpg
 
Although one can have a settee/table arrangement--the 3 sided seating is difficult in the space which is available. You have to have a slanted back for the settee/and head room--the Tom Cat, or any other boat that size just does not allow for that. It ends up to be uncomfortable, if you get the seat back too close to the side deck/cabin house--and thus loose some of the room.

I also would like to see 4 foot wide dinette, but agree that it is very difficult--I would consider the head on the same side as the dinette, and make the galley narrower if necessary. With the head to Port, you can make it wider, and a better shower, and more room. Bring the helm seat out to the 2 foot width as necessary. The storage area, could be part of galley counter--and give both a better shower and dinette that way. (Galley counter goes all of the way form the folded down helm seat aft. You can design a "jog" to the port just aft of the helm seat--and forward of the dinette, to give more room there.

I think that there is a target group who has the desire to sleep two children and the narrow dinette is an issue. I have owned both narrow and wide isles, and like the idea of a fold down end of table/dinette.

As for visibility aft--just not necessary; There is a clear door, there is visibility thru the one window-especially if the stb side is low. I agree many trucks and RV's I drive have no visibility aft except side mirrors--boats don't have that. If essential: then a couple of hundred bucks and get a video camera!

Price--big point at $100,000 (plus taxes etc)--I personally think it will be some time until we find increased discretionary spending. The Rangers are successful, since they are getting folks who would have been buying a larger trawler.

Weight--again a big issue. The issue is both towing weight and fuel economy. Fuel will remain expensive. One can make boats much lighter, using cored materials. The cost can be not much more. Consider Nida core or other light materials--perhaps pre molded panels to get the weight down. The Decaboard is heavy.

I think that 100 gallons of fuel is minimal for this size bI a 150--unless the efficiency is far greater than the C Dory 25. The problem is not the "light boat"--but the boat loaded for cruising. I figure that 200 mile range when loaded for a month is almost essential for most areas to be very comfortable.

Water--40 gallons is plenty--I did a Transpac with 10 crew--15 days and 50 gallons of water--we had some left over. There are many ways to conserve water. We did lots of Mexico trips with 20 to 40 gallons of water
The extra expense and plumbing of dock side hook up is not worth it. I have had boats up to 62 feet with no dock side water--and 25 foot boats with dock side water--never used it.

Water heater--consider building in a 2 to 3 gallon tank, which will run on an EU 1000 or EU 2000 Honda. The 6 gallon tanks are large and heavy. Plus take up storage space.
 
Les,

First and foremost, Wow what a great job on the Marinaut 215. You can tell from the build quality and design that there were a lot of great ideas in the works for quite some time. When I bought our 22 I looked at a 25 and was less than excited. Mainly because it did not feel that much bigger, if you have to have a head then it is great but that was not a deal breaker over a 22. For me to go bigger the boat needs to be comfortable for a family of 4 as a cruiser and be a fishing day tripper with friends/family again for a party of 4. Everyone needs a comfortable seat out of the weather and the boat still needs to balance out. This application is a struggle for me with the 22 and doesn’t look much better on a 25. I would have a hard time paying an extra 30K to get a head and some extra storage.

Since we pulled out the tape measure in a few previous posts. How about hanging the OB on an Armstrong bracket? Transform the motor well into deck space / fishbox / storage. Extend the cabin and build a U shaped dinette on the port side…

Wow, this got a lot of hits in the time it took me to type this up…. with pictures of a U shaped dinette.
Regards,
Dave
 
The original 25' C-dory "cruise ships" featured a wide dinette on the port side with a large head compartment located between the dinette and the aft bulkhead. The aisle space between the dinette if off-centered from the center-line of the boat, with the helm seat and galley to starboard. Perhaps Roger or Mike could provide you with dimensions of their interiors. After viewing the interior of TyBoo, I thought it was a better interior arrangement than the 25' interiors built by the Reynolds family. Just my 2 cents.
Best regards,
Leo
 
While I'm not in the market for another boat, Brian from Seven Please brings up something that could be addressed on most boats this size: ergonomic seating. The flat bench seats in the 25 are too long in the seat, too short on the back. I understand that having a dinette that can be made into a berth is a great sales tool... and something that most folks won't use. ("Look, it sleeps 4. We can take Bob and Marie on trips with us!") BUT, a comfortable place to sit WILL be used every time the boat goes out. I like the idea of a U-shape dinette with a table that can slide out into the aisle... not an uncommon use on RVs, especially Class Bs.

And while we're on the subject of RVs, make the cruising boat more like an RV: put the water switch where you USE the water, not on the front panel. Put bright lighting over the galley and dinette. Make the showerhead functional (not a toilet sprayer) with a decent flow blocking switch so the water doesn't go cold between sprays. Make the head door NOT leak when using the shower. Put the Wallas (or other stove top) to the side or mounted back further to better utilize the limited counter space. Put a pull-out faucet/sprayer on the sink. Better storage (racks) under the galley. A smaller water heater to better utilize storage. Make an inverter a factory option. Make the boat "turn key" for cruising, and those who want to cruise will be drawn to the boat.

Consider a "fishing option" for those who don't need all the cruising amenities.

Most of the above suggestions would cost very little if designed into the boat. I truly appreciate the fact that you are soliciting ideas from the folks who would be your target market. :thup :thup

Best wishes,
Jim B.
 
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