Inlay bamboo cutting board? Best way to cut fiberglass?

C

crazy4salmon

New member
Afternoon all. I have taken out my Wallas 800 and will be putting in a diesel furnace (Espar) in the fall. Already have it on the shelf waiting.

I want to cut out the top layer of fiberglass carefully so that it looks nice around the cutting board. I will carve out the balsa core and then just set the cutting board down into the opening. Then when I want to cook inside, I will just get out the single burner butane stove and put it on the cutting board. Would like to avoid caulking it into place. Be nice to flip it over or pull it out to easily access items below.

Thoughts/ideas? Tight Lines.
 
crazy4salmon":36a5nccc said:
Afternoon all. I have taken out my Wallas 800 and will be putting in a diesel furnace (Espar) in the fall. Already have it on the shelf waiting.

I want to cut out the top layer of fiberglass carefully so that it looks nice around the cutting board. I will carve out the balsa core and then just set the cutting board down into the opening. Then when I want to cook inside, I will just get out the single burner butane stove and put it on the cutting board. Would like to avoid caulking it into place. Be nice to flip it over or pull it out to easily access items below.

Thoughts/ideas? Tight Lines.
Click to expand...

I took out my Kenyon stove and put in a oak panel that covers most of the galley top to the right of the sink. It is got metal clips on the bottom that catch the edge of the stove cutout. There is no provision to remove the panel on a regular basis. It can be removed when necessary using a screw driver from below. Found that there was no real reason to have to lift it up in normal use.
 
If you're will to have the board raised above the fiberglass, just have it bigger than the old stove hole and attach stops to the bottom of the board that would rest against the edges of the old hole and prevent the board from sliding yet be easy to lift/remove the board.

Jay
 
Since it is a 23, I have to assume that you have confirmed that the core is balsa--the 22's mostly had melamine overlay on plywood. The full molded interior, at least on some boats, had solid glass galley counter top.

Getting a perfectly cut fiberglass is a real art, for that reason I would agree with those who suggest the cutting board be on top of the glass.
 
If you're trying to come up with a "finished edge" around the perimeter of the cutting board I would suggest making a jig of the hole you want to end up with and use a router to cut the surface as deep as you like. Not sure of the layout of the counter if you have room to use a router. If not perhaps a dremmel tool. After you have the hole cut out you could possibly finish it off with a molding that would contour around the hole and give it a finished look.
Another idea would be to get a "C or U shaped gasket, similar to what they used on the 25 cruiser aft deck hatches and mold that around the existing hole and put the cutting board on top of that. Possibly route out the cutting board on both sides to fit over the gasket. That would hide the gasket and prevent dish water from the sink from dripping down into the shelving underneath the counter top.
I like the idea of the Butane stove, i usually just sent mine on top of the Wallace stove and cook there. I like the to use the Wallace stove when the weather gets cooler as it warms up the cabin. Good luck on your project

Dave
(Seawitch)
25' Cruiser
 
I have two butane stoves. A big one, and a smaller one. They can be used singly or in combination as appropriate. They can also be used in the cockpit (if weather allows) or even taken ashore for cooking on the beach or picnic area.

I have a counter that can be placed across the cockpit splash well for cooking on. This keeps the odors, moisture, and heat from cooking out of the cabin in warmer seasons.
 
Thank you all for the great ideas. I do want to end up with something that is close to flush with the rest of the countertop. It is balsa cored so that was my plan. The balsa is just a little thinner than the cutting board but will be close. I like the idea of cutting a jig out and using a router. Think that is the route that I will go.

If I end up not liking the finish product? I will just fill the hole flush with the countertop and then order up a piece of SeaDek to cover it.

Tight Lines.
 
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