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Installing refriderator in CD22
- Thread starter BRAZO
- Start date
Captains Cat
New member
I think they're "normally" installed under the helm seat. That's where the ice box (not fridge) was on my 22 Cruiser. I think you can get a fridge that will fit there.
Charlie
Charlie
I would put it under the helm seat--that is where the 25 has it--Some folks have raised the helm seat to get a little more space (takes a little wood work--not sure if the molded interior would adjust well to this.
But isn't a refigerator a factory option? I see that some boats come with it for about $1300?
But isn't a refigerator a factory option? I see that some boats come with it for about $1300?
On the 22's the factory installed norcold fridge is typically installed under the front seat on the port side. The logic is to use it to balance out the weight when single handed. With the barber chair (e.g. the sliding port side seat), the fridge is not a factory option. I think the box under the helm seat is actually a little too low to put the fridge there unless you do some modifications.
There is a 2.7 cu foot Norcold which is 20" high, 18" wide and 21" deep. That should fit beneath the helm seat--you might go to the next one up even. Of course as you put in refigerators, you do give up storage space, and probably will require at least more more battery. Do not under estimate the power consumption, even of the most modern refer's.
The insullation is not the best, and usually the motor (heat) is under the unit, and thus loses effeciency.
The insullation is not the best, and usually the motor (heat) is under the unit, and thus loses effeciency.
Would anyone know if there is a drain hose coming off the Tundra (Dometric)Fridge .We have the Cape cruiser 23 .There is water under the fridge's cabinet . Other cc-23 owners suggested fixing the anchor locker which seems to be an area which has leaked before.which I have done .
If there is a drain pipe where does it go into cabinet ?? Please help, sick of sponging water out of cabinet.
If there is a drain pipe where does it go into cabinet ?? Please help, sick of sponging water out of cabinet.
Jim-
I found this paragraph from the owners manual for Dometic Tundra Refrigerators and Freezers, although it sounds like it was written for AC units, and I think it has been placed in the Refrigerator./Freezer manuals to warn of water released when defrosting the refrigerator.
"CONDENSATE - All cooling units produce water condensate when operating on the cooling cycle. This water must be
drained from the cooling unit overboard. If condensate is allowed to drip on a wooden structure, rotting or decay and
structural failure may occur which could result in loss of life. If condensate is allowed to drip on electrical components,
deterioration of the electrical components could result in hazardous conditions. When an air conditioning system is in
operation, condensate drains may be subjected to negative pressure. Always locate condensate drains as far as
possible from points where engine waste and other dangerous gases are exhausted so no such dangerous gases can be
drawn into the condensate drains."
From page 12 of "L-0938: Refrigerators/Freezers Installation/Operation Manual"
The Dometic home page is Dometic Marine Refrigerators
Now some common sense:
The refrigerator should condense water on the coldest part, the coils/box around the freezer inside the refrigerator. Since the refrigerator has no automatic defrost cycle, your condensate water should be trapped on the inner and outer walls of this box until you turn off the power and manually defrost the refrigerator. (The part of the refrigerator below and or behind or underneath the refrigerator's food containing main structure is the compressor and heat releasing coils, which will not attract or hold moisture.)
I don't see any mention or diagram of a drain in any of the owner's or installation manuals. Do you see a drain hole in the bottom of the refrigerator?
You could email or phone the company representative listed on the Homepage for a definitive answer.
Joe. :teeth :thup
I found this paragraph from the owners manual for Dometic Tundra Refrigerators and Freezers, although it sounds like it was written for AC units, and I think it has been placed in the Refrigerator./Freezer manuals to warn of water released when defrosting the refrigerator.
"CONDENSATE - All cooling units produce water condensate when operating on the cooling cycle. This water must be
drained from the cooling unit overboard. If condensate is allowed to drip on a wooden structure, rotting or decay and
structural failure may occur which could result in loss of life. If condensate is allowed to drip on electrical components,
deterioration of the electrical components could result in hazardous conditions. When an air conditioning system is in
operation, condensate drains may be subjected to negative pressure. Always locate condensate drains as far as
possible from points where engine waste and other dangerous gases are exhausted so no such dangerous gases can be
drawn into the condensate drains."
From page 12 of "L-0938: Refrigerators/Freezers Installation/Operation Manual"
The Dometic home page is Dometic Marine Refrigerators
Now some common sense:
The refrigerator should condense water on the coldest part, the coils/box around the freezer inside the refrigerator. Since the refrigerator has no automatic defrost cycle, your condensate water should be trapped on the inner and outer walls of this box until you turn off the power and manually defrost the refrigerator. (The part of the refrigerator below and or behind or underneath the refrigerator's food containing main structure is the compressor and heat releasing coils, which will not attract or hold moisture.)
I don't see any mention or diagram of a drain in any of the owner's or installation manuals. Do you see a drain hole in the bottom of the refrigerator?
You could email or phone the company representative listed on the Homepage for a definitive answer.
Joe. :teeth :thup
We have never experienced any "condensate" problem with marine or RV refigerators. Any ice buildup usually occurs inside of the box, on cooling fins or plates. As Joe says, the compressor, and coils on the outside of the refigerator are hot--and have to have the heat ducted away (sometimes a small fan helps the effeciency of these units).
An air conditioner is different. It cools air on coils, which a blower pushes air over, and the air is cooled. It is these cold coils which produce the condensate. We have dehumidifiers and they produce a farily large amount of condensate, but it is from the cool coils--which would be inside of a refigerator. When you turn off the refigerator, You need to keep the door open and keep a sponge or towel in there to absorb any moisture.
An air conditioner is different. It cools air on coils, which a blower pushes air over, and the air is cooled. It is these cold coils which produce the condensate. We have dehumidifiers and they produce a farily large amount of condensate, but it is from the cool coils--which would be inside of a refigerator. When you turn off the refigerator, You need to keep the door open and keep a sponge or towel in there to absorb any moisture.
Thanks for all the reply's -- I appreciate the help.
I went with the Norcold DE0040S -- which is a 1.7 cubic foot stainless steel AC/DC model. It should fit under the helm seat with minimal cutting -- basically just the front will need to be cut out and it should slide in. It certainly is not very big, but we feel it is necessary to have some sort of refridge.
The goal with the new boat is to outfit it right from the start -- I know from past experience if I don't spend the monies right away, we won't pull the trigger later. Plus we are going from a 32' Sundowner Tug with a 12ft beam, so we need at least some of the options that we enjoyed on the tug.
I'll report more after I have it installed.
Thanks again.
I went with the Norcold DE0040S -- which is a 1.7 cubic foot stainless steel AC/DC model. It should fit under the helm seat with minimal cutting -- basically just the front will need to be cut out and it should slide in. It certainly is not very big, but we feel it is necessary to have some sort of refridge.
The goal with the new boat is to outfit it right from the start -- I know from past experience if I don't spend the monies right away, we won't pull the trigger later. Plus we are going from a 32' Sundowner Tug with a 12ft beam, so we need at least some of the options that we enjoyed on the tug.
I'll report more after I have it installed.
Thanks again.
marvin4239
New member
I installed a Waeco freezer/refrigerator under the helm of my 22 and think it's a better option the the refrigerator. It can be used as a freezer or refrigerator or both. It was a little work doing the install but I really like the final results. I freeze ice packs in half of the freezer compartment and transfer them to my cooler. I use the other half for meats and it has a small section that doesn't freeze for everyday items. So far on a week long cruise I haven't had to buy any ice. The unit has a safety cutoff that you can set that turns it off at a preset voltage to prevent from running batteries to low and operates on either 12V or 120V automaticly switching to 120V when present. There pictures of the install in my photo album.
Just a followup on our refridge install on our CD22. We ended up purchasing a Norcold DE0040S - 1.7 cubic ft AC/DC refridge. I cut the door out of the helm seat and the Norcold went right in. I'll post pictures later, but the cut out was just a bit bigger than the door and was very easy to do.
I then used the space behind the refridge to mount the Auto-pilot pump / computer, the Auto-Trim tab computer, the USB hub for the Nobeltec Radar, GPS, Auto-pilot, and depth finder.
I then used the space behind the refridge to mount the Auto-pilot pump / computer, the Auto-Trim tab computer, the USB hub for the Nobeltec Radar, GPS, Auto-pilot, and depth finder.
journey on
New member
Robert/Brazo,
What kind of Nobeltec radar did you get, and to what does the USB port connect? Is it one that connects directly to your computer? Or to the refrig?
How about a couple of pics of your refrigerator and radar installation?
Boris
What kind of Nobeltec radar did you get, and to what does the USB port connect? Is it one that connects directly to your computer? Or to the refrig?
How about a couple of pics of your refrigerator and radar installation?
Boris
We purchased the 2kw Nobeltec IR2 radar. I've worked in computers for the last 25 years and had the desire to hook all the electronics together via the computer. This will allow me to use the laptop (probably going with a Dell Mini-9) for Internet access and misc items on the boat.
We used a laptop (only for navigation via NavPak Pro) on our previous boat and it worked great. That way if you want to increase your screen size or move into the latest navigational software -- you can do it without buying another $1500 chartplotter.
The Nobeltec IR2 radar has a serial cable that we converted to USB and will plug into the laptop (via the USB hub). All electronics (Radar, Depth, VHF, Auto-Pilot, Honda Digital Gauge, GPS) will connect to the USB hub and then into the laptop. We'll use Nobeltec VNS Max for our navigational software along with CMap Max Pro charts.
I'll try to get some pictures of the refridge out soon. I'm still running the wires for the electronics, so that'll be a few weeks.
I'll do a post on how my "All computer/USB" setup works after I get it done.
We used a laptop (only for navigation via NavPak Pro) on our previous boat and it worked great. That way if you want to increase your screen size or move into the latest navigational software -- you can do it without buying another $1500 chartplotter.
The Nobeltec IR2 radar has a serial cable that we converted to USB and will plug into the laptop (via the USB hub). All electronics (Radar, Depth, VHF, Auto-Pilot, Honda Digital Gauge, GPS) will connect to the USB hub and then into the laptop. We'll use Nobeltec VNS Max for our navigational software along with CMap Max Pro charts.
I'll try to get some pictures of the refridge out soon. I'm still running the wires for the electronics, so that'll be a few weeks.
I'll do a post on how my "All computer/USB" setup works after I get it done.
journey on
New member
Robert,
I believe that's the way to go in the future. Instead of buying an expensive display unit that can only display data, get a cheaper PC (or MAC, sorry,) that can do a lot more, and lets you upgrade as you go along.
By the way, Jeppson, a Boeing Co., says Nobletec doesn't run under Vista. Jeppson also now owns C-MAP, which I've used to good effect. Be fascinated to see how everything goes.
Boris
I believe that's the way to go in the future. Instead of buying an expensive display unit that can only display data, get a cheaper PC (or MAC, sorry,) that can do a lot more, and lets you upgrade as you go along.
By the way, Jeppson, a Boeing Co., says Nobletec doesn't run under Vista. Jeppson also now owns C-MAP, which I've used to good effect. Be fascinated to see how everything goes.
Boris