Line Caught in Prop

[louxwe]

So I am new to outboard motors and wanted to get some help here. I have a Honda 75 and on my way back into dock I noticed that there was a foot long piece of mooring line wrapped around the prop. The engine was still running and I am not sure exactly how long it was like that. Most likely earlier in the day while I was single handed trying to tie off next to a bridge to fish it probably fell in the water and got tangled but it just ripped the nylon rope. I don't recall the engine ever stopping, or hanging up, so not sure how long the line was in there. I cut off the 1 ft long length that was still in there, but I couldn't quite get all of it out. Seems like friction/heat had caused some of it to melt a bit and got down into the area between the prop and the rest of the engine. The prop turned easily and I just drove on in to the boat lift. I was planning on taking off the prop (never done this on an outboard) and just making sure all of the line is out. Any advice on how to do this and also what other damage should I be looking for?

A secondary note, I don't think related, but I also noticed that the pee water stream was not coming out. Was worried that somehow the line might have damaged the water inlet or pump but I don't see how. I didn't get any high temp alarms. When I got back to boat lift I hooked the flush hose up and used a long piece of plastic to clean the pee water hole up and it seems to be streaming fine now so I think that was the problem. The dock I am at is very low water in the winter and I think I must have got some sand and muck in there.

Any advice/help on checking out the prop would be helpful.
Thanks, Bill

 

[DayBreak]

Bill, you will need to take the prop off and remove any line on the prop shaft. It is not that hard to do. There are lots of videos on this procedure and many by the original engine manufacturer. Keep the parts in order as to removal and put them on the same way as taken off. Always use a new cotter pin. Fishing line is probably the worst on your propshaft. When fishing line gets ensnared in your engine's gearcase, it can cause damage very quickly. It slides into the narrow gap between the forward end of your propeller hub and the rearward edge of your gearcase. It wraps around the shaft, heats up and melts. The melted loose strands cut into the prop shaft seals that are located right behind the forward thrust washer. Once the fishing line cuts through the rubber lips of these seals, it is just a matter of time that water seeps in and gear lube seeps out. To rebuild the gearcase with new gears, propshaft, driveshaft and seals will costs lots. At-least annually, you should take off your prop and look for fishing line or any line wrapped around the propshaft as part of your maintenance schedule.

 

[TyBoo]

Everything Gary said is spot on. Be careful when you pull the prop off to make sure the thrust washer behind it is not stuck to the prop hub. You do not want to drop that in the water! The washer is on a tapered fit on the shaft but is not always tight, The grease from the prop shaft can make it stick to the prop right up until it falls off when the prop clears the shaft as you remove it.

Speaking of grease on the prop shaft, you want to liberally add some marine waterproof grease to the shaft spline when you reassemble so the prop comes off easily next time.

Also, don't overtighten the prop nut when you put it all back together. You don't want to force that thrust washer too far onto the taper. Your manual should give the procedure, but I always snug it up until there is no axial movement of the prop and then back it off to the first available hole for the cotter pin.

The whole thing is really easy to do - it just looks intimidating! Once you do it you won't think twice about doing it the next time. And once you drop the thrust washer in the drink and pay for a replacement you will never forget it again.

 

[louxwe]

What exactly does the thrust washer do? I have it on a boat lift now is this doable reaching around from behind or will I need to get around behind to do this. The water is really low so if necessary I can stand in the water... just a bit cold now.

Everything Gary said is spot on. Be careful when you pull the prop off to make sure the thrust washer behind it is not stuck to the prop hub. You do not want to drop that in the water! The washer is on a tapered fit on the shaft but is not always tight, The grease from the prop shaft can make it stick to the prop right up until it falls off when the prop clears the shaft as you remove it.

Speaking of grease on the prop shaft, you want to liberally add some marine waterproof grease to the shaft spline when you reassemble so the prop comes off easily next time.

Also, don't overtighten the prop nut when you put it all back together. You don't want to force that thrust washer too far onto the taper. Your manual should give the procedure, but I always snug it up until there is no axial movement of the prop and then back it off to the first available hole for the cotter pin.

The whole thing is really easy to do - it just looks intimidating! Once you do it you won't think twice about doing it the next time. And once you drop the thrust washer in the drink and pay for a replacement you will never forget it again.

 

[louxwe]

Just went out to look at it, was gonna pull the prop but it is cold and windy/rainy today so that will wait. It looks like the line got caught and rubbed on the outside of the propellor housing, forward right next to where it attaches to the lower unit. It doesn't look like any of the line got into the space between them or got pulled into where the seals for the lower unit are. Just looks like it got hot around outside of propellor shaft and melted the nylon rope. The bits of rope and melted nylon are stuck/melted to the shaft. Seems like I can just pry it off, but I will go ahead and pull the prop just to check.

What exactly does the thrust washer do? I have it on a boat lift now is this doable reaching around from behind or will I need to get around behind to do this. The water is really low so if necessary I can stand in the water... just a bit cold now.

Everything Gary said is spot on. Be careful when you pull the prop off to make sure the thrust washer behind it is not stuck to the prop hub. You do not want to drop that in the water! The washer is on a tapered fit on the shaft but is not always tight, The grease from the prop shaft can make it stick to the prop right up until it falls off when the prop clears the shaft as you remove it.

Speaking of grease on the prop shaft, you want to liberally add some marine waterproof grease to the shaft spline when you reassemble so the prop comes off easily next time.

Also, don't overtighten the prop nut when you put it all back together. You don't want to force that thrust washer too far onto the taper. Your manual should give the procedure, but I always snug it up until there is no axial movement of the prop and then back it off to the first available hole for the cotter pin.

The whole thing is really easy to do - it just looks intimidating! Once you do it you won't think twice about doing it the next time. And once you drop the thrust washer in the drink and pay for a replacement you will never forget it again.

 

[thataway]

Yes, there are some very low tides and North wind--cold--relatively--in our area of Florida today.

You can wait for a better day. But before you run that motor again, it is essential to pull the prop. Check for any of the line on the shaft and seal. When did you last change the lower unit gear oil? I would change it now if this were my motor.
If water is present--there is seal damage, and the rear seal needs to be replaced.

Also when did you last change the impeller? If the lower unit was in the muck/sand--then there may have been some sand pulled up into the water pump and damage to both impeller blades and housing. Much much cheaper to do all of these now. Generally 200 hours or every two years is the interval for impeller change. But if you regularly run in sandy, silty water, then more frequent. The housing liner can also be changed at the time if there is any evidence of damage. There are seals on the shaft which will also probably need to be replaced.

The thrust washer takes the forward thrust of the prop on the shaft--and is sort of a buffer between the rotating part and the fixed part of the lower unit. It does not rub or touch the housing.

 

[journey on]

Dock line doesn’t wrap around the prop shaft and cut the seals as fishing line does. There’s probably no harm, but to be sure pull the prop and check the seals, it’s easy.

To be sure, drain the lower case and see if any water has gotten in; the oil will be white. No need to rebuild the lower end, just replace the seals.

The thrust bearing does what it’s name says, transfers the prop thrust from the prop to the drive shaft. One side takes the thrust from the motor, the other side transfers it to a boss on the drive shaft. The splines on the shaft allow the prop to float whilst turning the prop,so the thrust washer allows the prop to push, without harming the splines.

Boris