Marinaut Shore Power

C

C-Nile

New member
I thought it would be interesting to open a topic about various Marinaut Shore Power set-ups. We decided on a temporary shore power set up for the Betty Ann, because even though we regularly stay in transient berths, we find the electrical systems on the boat adequate for being off the grid for several days at a time. Usually the only time we use shore power is when the nights are so cold that we would prefer an electric heater. This is not to say that the Wallas is not an excellent heater, because it is, but we prefer to use it as a back up and preserve the operating life of the unit. Using our Wagan 200 Watt power converter running off of our house battery, we can use a 60 Watt equivalent CFL lightbulb, plug in radios, electric razor, Ipad and other electronic devices. So the Betty Ann has a temporary shore power set up as described in the C-nile sub folder "Temporary Shore..." under the below link. We strove to achieve safety, and followed recommendations from many C-Brats (Les Lampman, Dr. Bob, Et. Al.). If anyone sees anything wrong with this set up, I would very much appreciate your comments.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
 
One suggestion (you may already be doing this) is to tie the boat end of your extension cord to the boat! Basically, if the boat comes loose or moves around too much for whatever reason, you want the cord to come loose at the dock, not at the boat, otherwise you can end up with a live cord falling in the water.
 
ferret30":t2eycxx3 said:
One suggestion (you may already be doing this) is to tie the boat end of your extension cord to the boat! Basically, if the boat comes loose or moves around too much for whatever reason, you want the cord to come loose at the dock, not at the boat, otherwise you can end up with a live cord falling in the water.
Click to expand...

I don't do that, albeit there is a huge amount of slack. Nevertheless, I shall do so from this point on. Thanks!

Rich
 
One safety precaution--either the boat or RV with a power pedestal--turn the breaker off at the pedestal while connecting the power cord--then turn the breaker on.

We don't have a breaker at home right at our 30 amp circuits (boat or RV), so we make sure that the main switch in the RV and boat are turned off when the cord is plugged in. (the breakers on on the main switch panels remote from the pedestal plug)
 
Thanks Bob, I don't currently do that either, but it is a 30 amp outlet. It is a good precaution to shut the breaker off at the pedestal before inserting the plug. I'll do it.

Rich
 
It's particularly important to shut of the power at the pedestal prior to inserting the power cord or prior to disconnecting it from boat ESPECIALLY in fresh water marina's where other may be in contact with the water. E.g. you never want a hot end of a cord in your hand because if you drop it in the water, the water becomes electrified. In salt water, the voltage will dissipate to ground quickly, in fresh water a considerable volume of water can be a high voltage. So my process when connecting or disconnecting is to always turn off the power at the source first.
 
Rich,

OK, my dumb question for the week, why do you need to go from 30amp to 15amp? Obviously my electrical knowledge is limited.

Jake
 
Yet another reason to have power off while plugging into shore power is to avoid arcing on the boat's end of the power cord. Boat shore power cord sockets are one of the leading causes of boat fires. Plugging them in first to the boat then to the shore power, then turning on the shore powers breaker ,then turning on the breakers in the boat for what you need helps avoid this from happening. A couple of over sized caribineer clips can help keep the cord from falling into the water
D.D.
 
Will-C":3g8btjuq said:
Yet another reason to have power off while plugging into shore power is to avoid arcing on the boat's end of the power cord. Boat shore power cord sockets are one of the leading causes of boat fires. Plugging them in first to the boat then to the shore power, then turning on the shore powers breaker ,then turning on the breakers in the boat for what you need helps avoid this from happening. A couple of over sized caribineer clips can help keep the cord from falling into the water
D.D.
Click to expand...

I have a 15 amp temporary set up with a 15 amp breaker at the end of the power cord, and no load would be attached at the time of plugging in to the shore power island. Regardless, it is better to be safe then to be sorry. Also, I will look into the carbineer clips as a means for keeping the cord out of the water. Thanks,

Rich
 
At my marina the breakers aren't easily accessible (they're under a wooden hatch next to the meter for each boat).

The best practice I've heard when not switching power at the pedestal is:

Connecting:

* make sure boat panel (if applicable) is switched off, or that no load is plugged in on the boat end

* make sure boat end of cord is secured to the boat (don't trust the twist plug to hold it together)

* plug the boat end of the cord into the inlet (again, if you have one)

* plug the dock end of the cord into the pedestal receptacle

* turn on panel breaker(s)

Disconnecting:

* turn off all breakers, or disconnect all loads

* unplug cord at dock pedestal and bring aboard boat

* unplug cord at boat inlet


Following this procedure, even with the pedestal power on, I have not had any arc problems that some people have reported having at the inlet. I know some people have this problem and have switched over to a SmartPlug system, but I don't see the need as long as I switch off all loads first and (dis)connect at the dock before (dis)connecting at the boat.
 
With no power flowing, you should not have the arcing problem. Will C is correct this is the most common cause of boat fires.

Some of the new plugs have a very direct connection which cannot "wiggle". The arcing can occur with a loose plug, so if you have the 30 amp plug, be sure and have the screw in connection and make sure it is secure.

We only have 20 amps on our 22. Never require more than that. We have a built in connector and fuse as well as a main switch--for battery charger, and 3 outlets. We don't like loose cords around the boat. The inlet cord is secured under the gunnel.
 
thataway":1uo799tv said:
With no power flowing, you should not have the arcing problem. Will C is correct this is the most common cause of boat fires.

Some of the new plugs have a very direct connection which cannot "wiggle". The arcing can occur with a loose plug, so if you have the 30 amp plug, be sure and have the screw in connection and make sure it is secure.

We only have 20 amps on our 22. Never require more than that. We have a built in connector and fuse as well as a main switch--for battery charger, and 3 outlets. We don't like loose cords around the boat. The inlet cord is secured under the gunnel.
Click to expand...

No power flowing...That's what I figured to, but still, it's not a bad idea to be cautious.

Screw in connection...We insert the plug and turn it to the right to lock it in place

20 amps... we only need 15 amps and everything is fused accordingly

Loose cords around boat...I agree, but my set-up is temporary, and the cords are neatly tucked out of the way.

Thanks!

Rich
 
On the boat side of the 30 amp connector is the:

30 Amp Boatside Inlet and Connector

The SmartPlug 30 Amp Boatside Inlet and Connector (B30ASSY) includes the 30 Amp Boatside Inlet (BM30S) and the 30 Amp Boatside Connector (BF30), everything you need to protect your boat from boatside shore power overheating and burning. Installation of both components is easy. Simply replace the connector on the boatside end of your existing shore power cordset, as well as the shore power inlet on your boat with the superior SmartPlug equivalent using the included instructions.

Features
Trip thermostat in inlet cuts power before overheating
Straight electrical blades with 20x more contact area
Three weatherproof seals
Multi-point locking system
Marine-grade 316 stainless steel construction

On the pedestal side there will be only a twist lock, with no secure ring or waterproof seal. I like to have a piece of cord tied around the cord with a clove hitch, just below the cover of the plug. This cord is then tied around the pedestal to be sure that the plug does not wiggle or come loose.
 
thataway":3imxjl7p said:
On the boat side of the 30 amp connector is the:

30 Amp Boatside Inlet and Connector

The SmartPlug 30 Amp Boatside Inlet and Connector (B30ASSY) includes the 30 Amp Boatside Inlet (BM30S) and the 30 Amp Boatside Connector (BF30), everything you need to protect your boat from boatside shore power overheating and burning. Installation of both components is easy. Simply replace the connector on the boatside end of your existing shore power cordset, as well as the shore power inlet on your boat with the superior SmartPlug equivalent using the included instructions.

Features
Trip thermostat in inlet cuts power before overheating
Straight electrical blades with 20x more contact area
Three weatherproof seals
Multi-point locking system
Marine-grade 316 stainless steel construction

On the pedestal side there will be only a twist lock, with no secure ring or waterproof seal. I like to have a piece of cord tied around the cord with a clove hitch, just below the cover of the plug. This cord is then tied around the pedestal to be sure that the plug does not wiggle or come loose.
Click to expand...

I like your idea of the cord to prevent the plug from moving. As for the shoreside end of my temporary setup, I'm going to reflect long and hard on this over my 7-month-off-season, which coincidentally just started today. Thanks for reviewing my set-up. I removed it from my photo album so as others would not be confused that my request for review would not be erroneously intended as a blueprint for others to follow.

Rich
 
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