Marine Tex Epoxy

T

Tug

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Jun 22, 2007
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C Dory Year
1985
C Dory Model
22 Angler
Hull Identification Number
DOR22241H585
Vessel Name
Drifter
This has probably been asked before ..but..how solid does Marine Tex get when cured. I tested one of the small screw holes that i filled with Marine Tex epoxy about 3-4 days ago with a small drill bit and it is about as hard as a piece of chalk. ..NOT GOOD..Not rock hard as advertised...i do not think temperature is the problem because i filled another hole with West System epoxy and it cured fine.Should i leave the other screw holes that i filled with Marine Tex to hopefully cure farther or dig them out and fill with West System epoxy. Thanks Tug
 
Quite solid in my experience, every time over many years - never had that problem. Sure you got the mixing proportions right?
 
Tug-

Marine-Tex cures as hard as any epoxy resin that's filled with glass fibers, as hard as your hull, and actually harder than your gel coat.

The only commonly available filler that's as strong and/or stronger and harder is JB Weld, in my experience.

If it's soft, you probably mixed it outside of the recommended proportions.

Marine-Tex filler is mixed on a 5 to 1 ratio with the hardener, not 1:1 like many other fillers, so it's a little harder to estimate and get right in small quantities for small jobs.

Mixed 1:1, it's very soft, as all the hardener, which is a second, but lesser, part of the finished epoxy resin is not used in the setting up/or polymerization.

Specific information here on mixing: MARINE-TEX

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Agree with Joe (of course)---you either had the area too cold, or improper mix. I do it by eye, but have been using marine tex for longer than I can remember. Never had it "soft". However, it will discolor with the UV light over time. Also difficult to put gel coat over it. I tend to use epoxy mixed with fillers for screw holes, in that I think I get a slightly better bond.

I would drill out the marine Tex and remix, fill a second time.
 
The Marine Tex i mixed 5:1 ratio...i think the problem was partly my fault..when it said cures hard as a rock i expected to have trouble drilling in it..the hole was only 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch deep...1/4 to 3/8 inch diameter. The Marine Tex was hard but there was a void ( air bubble in it ) and i used too big a drill bit. The Marine Tex more or less shattered if thats the correct term. Had me worried that i messed things up again..lol. I drilled another hole filled with Marine Tex..( for those small wooden strips that secure the gas tanks from sliding forward on my boat ) using a smaller diameter drill bit and it was something like drilling through King Starboard with spirals of plastic coming out. ...***Is that still too soft or is that hard enough ***....Hard but not hard as a rock...All the other screw holes i filled with Marine Tex are all smooth and hard to the touch and seem good. Does anyone know how thick the floor is on the older Classics..i bedded 4 screws about 1/2 inch into the floor to secure those wooden strips of wood....Thanks Tug....and Happy Easter
 
Tug":3qs9th8b said:
The Marine Tex i mixed 5:1 ratio...i think the problem was partly my fault..when it said cures hard as a rock i expected to have trouble drilling in it..the hole was only 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch deep...1/4 to 3/8 inch diameter. The Marine Tex was hard but there was a void ( air bubble in it ) and i used too big a drill bit. The Marine Tex more or less shattered if thats the correct term. Had me worried that i messed things up again..lol. I drilled another hole filled with Marine Tex..( for those small wooden strips that secure the gas tanks from sliding forward on my boat ) using a smaller diameter drill bit and it was something like drilling through King Starboard with spirals of plastic coming out. ...***Is that still too soft or is that hard enough ***....Hard but not hard as a rock...All the other screw holes i filled with Marine Tex are all smooth and hard to the touch and seem good. Does anyone know how thick the floor is on the older Classics..i bedded 4 screws about 1/2 inch into the floor to secure those wooden strips of wood....Thanks Tug....and Happy Easter
Click to expand...

That's just right, with the spirals cut by a sharp drill bit!

About 1-1/2 to 2", or so. There's a sheet of approx 1" marine plywood encapsulated there with fiberglass cloth and roving on both sides of it and gel coat on the outside layer of the hull.

Quite a sandwich, and still no pickles or pastrami, huh? :lol:

Hope all's well!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
..Thanks for that bit of information...figured it was somewhere in that ball-park..i will sleep better tonite knowing that.lol Tug
 
Do i need to epoxy this repair....buy a Preval Spray Gun..some epoxy ( tinted white ) and do it myself...or have a shop do it. I was going to place a piece of King Starboard over the repair to attach my new transducer. Do you need alot of experience in spraying gelcoat to do a good job.Thanks Tug
 
Warning!!! DO NOT SPRAY EPOXY!!!

Spraying epoxy is a serious health hazard. The small particles of catalyzed epoxy go everywhere and if inhaled will cure in your lungs and cause serious health problems. They also will settle and cure on all nearby surfaces including your body. If that surface is your skin or eyes, you can get a serious reaction. Epoxy is not paint, and will not cure while the particles are airborne, but only with time.

Be sure to read all instructions and follow them. The most dangerous component is the hardener.

A good finish can be achieved by adding pigment to liquid epoxy and brushing the epoxy on the part. Liquid epoxy is somewhat self leveling. However, the epoxy will still degrade in sunlight.

The best way to finish a part may be to coat the part with liquid epoxy and after curing and sanding, paint to match the hull or deck color.

For more info check out http://www.westsystem.com or http://www.systemthree.com
 
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