Modifying trailer guide for Wallas exhaust

C

CDory23

New member
I often use the Wallas stove while the boat is sitting on the trailer as many do. The problem is the guide on my trailer is right up against the Wallas stove exhaust. I"ve searched the forum in the past for this issue and the practice i've been using is loosening 4 bolts and pulling the guide out far enough to give the exhaust adequate space. As this doesn't sound too difficult it is time consuming at times, annoying, and also can create an environment for pinch point especially when its really cold.

Does anybody else who has this issue been able to solve this problem in a more practical way? I've thought about drilling a hole in the guide but that would sacrifice structural integrity. I've also thought of cutting the guide and putting a hinge/lock hardware on to easily prop it open for the exhaust but none of these ideas sound great.

Any help appreciated. Thanks
 
I would think about cutting for and recessing a kitchen sized stainless sink drain fitting in the side of your guide to match the Wallas's exhaust. You know the female deal at the bottom of a sink that you place the sink stopper into.That would allow for a little extra space and not having to line it up your exhaust perfectly. The other idea would be to recess a straight fishing rod holder cut to length as to not protrude past the outside edge of the guide its self. A little more tricky to line up perfectly. Another thought would to extend the guide holders or lower the whole guide vertically hence the Wallas exhaust would not be blocked.
D.D.
 
CDory23":394wpq9d said:
I often use the Wallas stove while the boat is sitting on the trailer as many do. The problem is the guide on my trailer is right up against the Wallas stove exhaust. I"ve searched the forum in the past for this issue and the practice i've been using is loosening 4 bolts and pulling the guide out far enough to give the exhaust adequate space. As this doesn't sound too difficult it is time consuming at times, annoying, and also can create an environment for pinch point especially when its really cold.

Does anybody else who has this issue been able to solve this problem in a more practical way? I've thought about drilling a hole in the guide but that would sacrifice structural integrity. I've also thought of cutting the guide and putting a hinge/lock hardware on to easily prop it open for the exhaust but none of these ideas sound great.

Any help appreciated. Thanks
Click to expand...


Move the side board up or down? :beer
 
Thanks for the replies. The sink drain isn't a bad idea. I like the guides where they area and don't want to lower them. I'll post when I find my final solution.
 
I would think that lowering the side board bunks would be the best solution. I have looked at that for my boat as a possible solution too. getting it to sit in the same exact spot every time; I'm not sure how well that will work out. You would have to be within portions of an inch, for the drilled hole system to work and I agree, drilling the side board will weaken them. Another option might be to put one of the "clam shell" covers over that vent. I know some have done that to deflect water away so it down not go up into the exhaust port.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

1_10_2012_from_Canon_961.highlight.jpg
 
Consider moving or changing the guides before you do anything else. Many C-brats have long guides and while many folks like them, it could be argued that they are much longer than needed. Depending on your launching methods and experiences, you may find a much shorter board to be plenty of help. Look carefully how your side guides are mounted to both the frame and the board and what options you have for adjustment.

Could you shorten your boards and slide the support back enough to clear the outlet? How about cutting out a 1ft section of the board then patching it with about a 3/4in wide by 20in long piece of aluminum flatbar on the top and bottom board edges. They could be screwed or bolted in place without contacting the boat, and leaving a nicely sized heat window.

Shorter support board examples below,

Short version

http://images0.boattrader.com/resize/1/ ... ?t=1195537

Shorter version (what we use)

http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/assets ... ideset.jpg

Greg
 
Aurelia":3v63ts49 said:
Consider moving or changing the guides before you do anything else. (Stuff clipped)

Could you shorten your boards and slide the support back enough to clear the outlet? How about cutting out a 1ft section of the board then patching it with about a 3/4in wide by 20in long piece of aluminum flatbar on the top and bottom board edges. They could be screwed or bolted in place without contacting the boat, and leaving a nicely sized heat window.

Shorter support board examples below,

Short version

http://images0.boattrader.com/resize/1/ ... ?t=1195537

Shorter version (what we use)

http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/assets ... ideset.jpg

Greg
Click to expand...

Greg,

I really like the aluminum bar idea. To keep the metal away from the boat, I think I might use some channel or "L" angles and put them on the outside, and overlap the ends by 12 - 18 inches on each end, Through bolt with fender washers counter sunk on the boat side and maybe double carpet. I would probably leave a good 12" opening. to allow for position variables and heat dissipation.

Do you think that much overlap and bar would be too stiff? Here is what my side bunks look like now.

IMGP6704.sized.jpg

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
That is probably more overlap than needed with the relatively low loads seen by side boards. They are only guiding a (hopefully) slow moving boat onto the trailer which is a job accomplished using small PVC tube stock in other designs.

If you used L shaped angle stock and fastened to the top-back and bottom-back, there would be no hull contact. I would bet you could use 4-6 inches of overlap and 4 simple short (predrilled, 2 per face) wood screws on each end with plenty of strength. This would save the washers, nuts, counter sinking, and likely any re-carpeting.

Greg
 
Yes, I do like the the idea of cutting a space and replacing within a section of flat bar on the outside of the guides. I would use galvanized and probably overlap maybe 6 inches and secure with screws or perhaps 2 thru bolts each side. Maybe wrap it with carpet as well. Its far enough away from the vent that it may not burn it. I have to think about the Aesthetics, but functionally this may be the winner!
 
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