Monel Staples

RobMcClain

RobMcClain

Member
One of my projects this summer will be to recarpet the bunks on our Magic Tilt trailer. I plan to use monel staples, as opposed to stainless, after reading several posts that specifically recommend their use. I am thinking about installing the new carpet over the old carpet, simply for a bit more cushioning. Is there any reason I should not do this and should instead remove all of the old carpet? Will this extra cushioning actually add any value, or might it act to add undue friction when retrieving the boat?

As for the correct staple size, I am thinking of using 3/8 inch. Are these going to be long enough or should I opt for 1/2 inch? Additionally, any recommendations on the best type of gun to insert them? I like the idea of a traditional manual staple gun because it would not need power, but frankly I am concerned about my ability to manually insert all of the staples required. An electric gun would seem more efficient in terms of power, effort, and effectiveness. What have others found to be the best tool? Since I will need to buy the necessary items, I would appreciate any thoughts and/or recommendations before acting further.

Thanks!
Rob
 
I wonder if just buying replacement bunks from the dealer, thru Magic Tilt,or from a trailer parts supplier might turn out to be cheaper than buying all the tools and materials which may not come in that handy for other jobs around the house. Just a thought.
D.D.
 
Robert-

I'm no expert on this, but here are some thoughts:

The extra padding sounds nice, but may not be necessary, and the extra carpet may hold a lot of unnecessary water that will cause extra mildew to both layers of carpet and the wood underneath, weakening the staple bonds. I specifically wouldn't leave the old carpet if it's held only by steel staples. I'd at least staple it with monel first, then again after applying the new layer of carpet. But I really don't like leaving it on there at all.

I'd get an electric or pneumatic staple gun and use the longest staples I could drive with it, within reason. Different types of wood swell different amounts when constantly wet, then can loosen around the staples when going through drying out, in cycles. Not much more disappointing on a job like this than to have it start pulling apart 6 months down the road, literally.

I've bought several electric guns at yard sales over the years, for not much $$$.
Then order some various lengths of monel staples over the internet, and you're all set for the next 10 years or so.

The only difficult part is that one needs several different sizes/types of staple guns between various carpet, upholstery, and other household and marine applications. Professional level staplers are many times more durable and useful than cheap import ones.

I gave up shooting 3/16" stainless and monel pop rivets 15-20 years ago along with manual staplers. Arthritis made me do it! Never looked back once I got the good tools! After all, it's only your hands, right?

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I found that 1/2" staples worked better than 3/8" - and that was just for one layer of carpet (but sometimes even one layer was doubled up at corners and etc.).

I find "the usual" manual staplers to be hard to use, but I what I did use was one of those Black & Decker staplers that looks sort of backwards. i.e. you have the opening part forward and not backwards. I find it lets me get much more "oomph" to the staple and I've used it quite a bit around the house and other projects as a result. I had no problems stapling the carpet to the bunks with that. I don't know if this is a factor, but my bunks are made of cypress, which seems relatively soft, which might have helped.

I got the Monel staples from Amazon (after looking everywhere locally and not finding them), but just the other day I saw a pack in Ace Hardware (now that I don't need any more).

Sunbeam
 
I've replaced the carpting on the bunks of two trailers. Both trailers had bunks of wood with carpet over. I found rot in some, not all, of the boards on each trailer. The rot is often around the lag screws that hold the bunk to the frame. When the wood gets soft enough the screws come out and the bunks drop off, ususally on a bumpy road and you might not notice for a while. Meanwhile the boat is bouncing on the frame. In short, check the "soundness" of the underling boards. On my last one I ended up replacing all the boards.

Some modern trailers may be using plastic as bunk boards, in which case the above is mute.

I had a debate about using pressure treated lumber or plain lumber for bunk boards. One argument against treated is that when you drive in the big lag screws you are creating an opening through the "hardened treated shell" of the wood that lets in rot, so you are just wasting money by buying treated lumber. The argument is just replace the bunk boards when you replace the carpeting. I'm still unsure on that.
 
This is great feedback - thank you! Frankly, I had not thought of replacing the bunks. Guess I should at least look into that but I suspect it won't be cost effective. Unfortunately there is no Magic Tilt dealer anywhere near our geographic area, and contacting Magic Tilt isn't much of an option. They seem interested in avoiding all customer contact and instead defer to their line of dealers. I think Sunbeam has run into this as well. They make a nice trailer but their customer service is truly awful. Guess I can price other aftermarket bunks for comparison.

Joe, I had not thought of the water retention issue and the impact on both carpet and wood rot :oops: Thank you for mentioning this. I definitely need to take some time to really inspect the wood and screw fittings, and poke around for any possible rot. I haven't seen any signs of it, but I also haven't looked in fine detail or poked around.

Rob
 
Not that expensive. We use a Arrow Electric Staple gun which uses T 50 staples. Cost about $40. I have 5/16 to 1/2 " monel staples--got at Home Depot or Lowes.

We always strip the old carpet--because those areas which are worn, will wear in the future--you are also stapling thru those extra layers.

We find some areas of rot--as noted above. We fill those with epoxy and filler. We also epoxy the end grain if it is dinned up.

New bunks are going to cost more than the staples, carpet and staple gun.
 
:thup on the Black and Decker Staple Gun. I bought one shortly after they were introduced years ago. There are now two of them in my shop and I love them.

I recently picked up a Ryobi staple gun to go with my other Ryobi cordless tools. The only downside is that in some tight spots it's hard to get the safety fully engaged.
 
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