Need new propeller - try something different?

C

curioustraveler

New member
Happy Thanksgiving weekend C-Brats,

My wife hit a log today on our way home for a great Thanksgiving weekend. I can't be upset with her. I'm just loving the fact that she loves handling the boat. We immediately checked the prop and the tip of all three blades are bent. I'm guessing maybe the last 3/4 inch are bent. The prop is original on a 2006 Honda 90.

I haven't called around yet but I'm assuming the cost to repair it isn't much less then just buying a new one. If I do buy a new one, is there any reason to try a different prop?

We've only had the boat this one summer and have used the heck out of it. I don't have any issues with performance, but we didn't buy Curious Traveler for performance so I don't really even know what better "performance" means. The only thing I've noticed is I can't usually get above 5000 rpm at full throttle. When I first purchased her and she was empty, and after a recent carb cleaning, I think I got close to 5500 but the other day I went out in pretty flat seas and could only just touch 5000.

We're on the Chesapeake bay so conditions are rarely such that we go over 14-16 knots anyways. We're very comfortable at 12-14 knots. So is there any reason to mess around with a different prop or should I just replace what's on there currently (3x13.5x15R.)

Thanks
 
You have the correct prop for that engine and boat. The questions are--is the boat heavy? Any way you could lighten it up? (gear). You should hit 6,000 RPM and about 29 to 30 mph light boat.

Is there any growth on the bottom? Also was there any issue with the prop before.. ("My wife did it"...sort of like the dog ate my homework-- I'll bet she thinks you should have been standing watch as a look out. :? --just fooling with you. I have hit a lot of stuff in the water, thru my life.--I agree a wife who loves to run the boat is like gold!). But there have been times where my wife has had to bring our boat to a safe place--once when I was injured, and once when I had to bring another C Brats's boat back to the dock, after he was taken out by chopper because of illness.

Stainless steel props are more efficient. But $$$$ and they do not give--some chance of shaft or gear damage with a hard strike. They will give a few more RPM, but the Aluminum prop does flex more..and gives a slightly lower effective pitch.

You should always carry a spare prop. Plus a prop wrench, an extra thrust washer, flat washer, a couple of cotter pins, and an extra castle nut (all of these, incase you drop or loose one along the way....

The prop should be pulled every year, shaft seal checked for any fishing line (which ruin's shaft seals), and then a light coat of grease, and a new cotter key. It is always a good idea to have one of the engine manuals aboard--such as SELOC. These are not shop manuals, but have the essential infor to do simple issues on the water (If you have cleaned the carbs, then you are over half way on understanding this engine!. A full shop manual is nearly 1000 pages, and beyond what most of us need.

Good you are enjoying the boat!
 
thataway":1897yeke said:
I'll bet she thinks you should have been standing watch as a look out.
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That's exactly what she said. I was enjoying myself in the cockpit but apparently was supposed to be standing watch.

The boat is loaded up but I wouldn't say excessively. I only carry about 24 gallons of fuel, 10 gallons of water, and then the miscellaneous stay-aboard stuff (dishes, life jackets, lines, bedding, air conditioner, etc) The bottom is relatively growth free with anti-fouling and regular use. But when I tested her out after I purchased her and had the engine serviced, I don't recall getting anywhere near 6000 rpms. I was glad she went over 5000. But I do believe I hit 24 knots which is pretty close to 29-30 mph. I also wasn't familiar with the best trim for speed which could've been part of the problem.

I'll stick with a replacement prop the same as what's on the motor currently and keep the dinged up one as a spare.
 
Bob,

What is your opinion about a boat that only hits the minimum rpm range for being properly pitched when new (before adding extra equipment and hardware), with low fuel, no water and with only one passenger vs. adding options (Windlass, extra anchor and chain, emergency equipment, tools, extra prop, stern line and reel etc.) and to go with a new pitch prop 2 inches larger than the original to get closer to the upper range rpm especially with full fuel, water, food, fishing gear and all those extras that now stay on the boat full time.

Speaking for myself, my boat has gotten very heavy and with going to a 21 inch prop from the original 19 inch prop I am enjoying the ability to hit 6K at max. throttle. Am I over pitched with the 21 inch prop? I am keeping the 19 inch on board as a spare and agree with you that having that extra hardware kit on-board for an emergency prop exchange is wise.

Thank you Bob for your wisdom on this subject.
 
What is your opinion about a boat that only hits the minimum rpm range for being properly pitched when new (before adding extra equipment and hardware), with low fuel, no water and with only one passenger vs. adding options (Windlass, extra anchor and chain, emergency equipment, tools, extra prop, stern line and reel etc.) and to go with a new pitch prop 2 inches larger than the original to get closer to the upper range rpm especially with full fuel, water, food, fishing gear and all those extras that now stay on the boat full time.

Speaking for myself, my boat has gotten very heavy and with going to a 21 inch prop from the original 19 inch prop I am enjoying the ability to hit 6K at max. throttle. Am I over pitched with the 21 inch prop? I am keeping the 19 inch on board as a spare and agree with you that having that extra hardware kit on-board for an emergency prop exchange is wise.
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First for others, you have a Suzuki 140 hp I believe. The Suzuki outboards are geared so that they use higher pitch props than most of the others. I may be mis understanding, but your boat had a 19" prop when new, and you went to. a 21" prop (more pitch). That would decrease your WOT RPM.

What was the WOT RPM with the 19" prop and the 21" prop, and speeds at each of these.

It is not unusual to have a light boat hitting the full 6200 RPM for that motor. (Suzuki 140 WOT you want to be between 5600 and 6200 RRPM. If. you are getting 6000 RPM that is fine, and I would stick with the prop which does this.

There are going to be situations where you cannot get the full highest WOT when fully loaded. For example if I start month cruise with full freezer, refer, fuel tanks, water tanks, and gear, my Wide open throttle may be in the 5000 RPM range. By the end of the cruise I am able to get close to the 58000 RPM--light boat is 6000 RPM.
 
Thanks Bob. Sorry, I got the prop numbers mixed up. We do have the Suzuki 140. After the initial break-in period and with light load, I was only able to get about 5,700 rpm with proper trim and a 21 inch prop. Now, with a more heavy load and a 19 inch prop, we can attain about 6 k rpm with proper trim. When we bought the boat, the dealer technician said that the boat was properly propped based on his sea trial run but with the extra weight and time I think that the 19 inch prop is actually the proper prop to use with our 23 Venture.

I appreciate your help. Good to know that if we take on additional passengers and gear those rpm numbers may fall below the rpm range recommended by the manufacturer but just temporarily.
 
The BF90D on my 22 cruiser will do 5700 rpm and 28-29 mph at a medium load on a 13.5x15 AL prop (last Friday on the Bay).

About every other year I buy a new prop.

Don't really see any reason to mess with the setup.
 
Found a new Honda Prop on Boats.net. Do I need to order a new bushing/hub/etc? I haven't pulled the damaged one off yet - probably hasn't been removed in 14 years so hopefully it won't be a problem. Is there something I'm likely to break in the process that I should just go ahead and purchase now?
 
You are not likely going to break anything in the process. You should be able to use your existing parts but you will need some waterproof grease and a new cotter pin when you put on the new prop. You tube some video examples/instruction so that you know what to expect and the tools that will required along with a piece of 2 x 4 wood to hold the prop in place etc.
 
Thanks DayBreak. Have the grease and a block of wood. Ordered a prop wrench and will grab extra cotter pins and also look for extra thrust washer, etc.

I have to admit to being a little spoiled here on the Chesapeake Bay (lazy?) I'm never more than an easy tow to a marina, and usually in water shallow enough to easily anchor, so I'm not loaded up with as many spare parts as I should be.
 
No problem. It is a good idea to take the prop off annually to inspect the prop shaft for fishing line. Once fishing line gets behind the forward thrust washer, it winds and winds around the shaft, heats up and often melts. The loose strands cut into the shaft seals and then water can get into the gearcase.

Have fun installing your new prop and the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
 
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