Ordered a pair of new leaf slipper W1 springs for my trailer ( pair 4900# capacity ) .The springs i have on now don't even move when i jump on the trailer.Probably the 1987 trailers' original springs, they are all rusted and look ancient. I will try these new springs out and see if they do anything for the trailers' ride.
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New Trailer Springs
- Thread starter Tug
- Start date
Jack in Alaska
New member
Tug,
I did the same thing on my 1983 model EZ Loader trailer about 4 yrs. ago when it was 24 yrs. old.
Don't forget to replace the "U" bolts, shackle bolts and bushings. I used an impact wrench and it made the job much easier. Those old rusty bolts came apart way easier than I thought they would. I also did the wheel bearings and seals.
The trailer was like new after the new suspension until the frame metal started to corrode. That was the end of that trailer.
Good luck........Jack
I did the same thing on my 1983 model EZ Loader trailer about 4 yrs. ago when it was 24 yrs. old.
Don't forget to replace the "U" bolts, shackle bolts and bushings. I used an impact wrench and it made the job much easier. Those old rusty bolts came apart way easier than I thought they would. I also did the wheel bearings and seals.
The trailer was like new after the new suspension until the frame metal started to corrode. That was the end of that trailer.
Good luck........Jack
I was at a Trailer builders (Rocket ) yesterday talking to them about replacement parts they now sell 90% torsion spring on a Tandem trailer it's only about 40-50 dollar difference in parts and if you take in shop time it's a lot easier to put on 8 bolts per axcel. then springs .If its just spring replacement then leafs are cheaper but if buying new or replacing axcels look at the torsion suspension . They hold up a lot better then leafs down here in Fl.
Jack in Alaska
New member
You are absolutely correct on the torsion system. Much better. I had it on a 37' 5th.whl. and had no problems in 120k miles.
Jack in Alaska
New member
Yes it is relatively common to break boat trailer springs particularly when used around salt water.
Springs are made to flex freely. When used in salt water the individual leaves become rusted together which puts undo strain on them when hitting bumps in the road. They can do nothing other than break. Usually only one or two of the leafs will break and without a "crawl under and looksee" it is hard to see. Eventually they will all break and then how they say.."that is how the fun begins".
Spraying off with water is only marginally helpful as the water is trapped between the leafs and corrodes the leafs together over time.
This all points to torsion suspension as a much better way to go as it is minimally affected by salt water/rust.
Springs are made to flex freely. When used in salt water the individual leaves become rusted together which puts undo strain on them when hitting bumps in the road. They can do nothing other than break. Usually only one or two of the leafs will break and without a "crawl under and looksee" it is hard to see. Eventually they will all break and then how they say.."that is how the fun begins".
Spraying off with water is only marginally helpful as the water is trapped between the leafs and corrodes the leafs together over time.
This all points to torsion suspension as a much better way to go as it is minimally affected by salt water/rust.
Does anyone have any idea what i could ask for my 1987 3100# bunk EZ-Loader trailer with aft roller. ( NEW 4900# SPRINGS ). It's still in good shape for an older trailer , i just thought it was a little under sized for my 22 and didn't feel comfortable towing my boat with it. ( PICTURE IN ALBUM )
Leaned that it's a good idea to lift the trailer and suspend the axile when you change the leaf springs.Makes it easier to do. :embarrased
Leaned that it's a good idea to lift the trailer and suspend the axile when you change the leaf springs.Makes it easier to do. :embarrased
Tug- I'll let someone else guess on the valuation, but you'll have to keep in mind that your traailer is set up for a "Classic" C-Dory made before 1987 with a flat bottom, and has that big wide roller aft and flat bunks to accommodate that boat.
On the one hand, if someone else has the same basic model C-Dory, the trailer would be very desirable to them, since it's already set up for their boat, and hence it would be more valuable to them.
On he other hand, to someone with a later model C-Dory, or another shallow V or deep V boat, the trailer would require some modification to carry their boat, and the cost would have to be figured in to the allowable boat cost to that person, which would bring the valuation down.
So your best bet might well be to target an sales audience of folks who have C-Dory Classics and are in need of a replacement.
Since the "Classics" are all 25-30 years old, there well may be some folks in that group needing a replacement trailer, especially those around salt water.
Good Luck with the sale!
Joe. :teeth :thup
On the one hand, if someone else has the same basic model C-Dory, the trailer would be very desirable to them, since it's already set up for their boat, and hence it would be more valuable to them.
On he other hand, to someone with a later model C-Dory, or another shallow V or deep V boat, the trailer would require some modification to carry their boat, and the cost would have to be figured in to the allowable boat cost to that person, which would bring the valuation down.
So your best bet might well be to target an sales audience of folks who have C-Dory Classics and are in need of a replacement.
Since the "Classics" are all 25-30 years old, there well may be some folks in that group needing a replacement trailer, especially those around salt water.
Good Luck with the sale!
Joe. :teeth :thup
Yes, I've had spring trouble. And I even tried a new idea (probably not mine alone) of heavily greasing the springs by hand with wheel bearing grease when they were nearly new trying to prevent rusting even though I religiously wash them off thoroughly after every outing. The pacific trailer 'expert' on springs (and yes, he is an expert) said my idea was good and probably extended their life a bit, he uses Henry's roofing tar on his springs, says it works better and is better for the environment when dunking in our waters.
My theory is that the original tires were bias ply which really shook the devil out of that trailer and suspension, this increased the vibration and flexing of the springs causing early fatigue. My boat is fairly light at 7,400 lbs, trailer and all fully loaded, plus the trailer is a 27 ft, rated at 9,400 lbs GVWR.
So will see how well these new springs last with my radial tires, I'll report back in about 10 yrs and let you know...!
My theory is that the original tires were bias ply which really shook the devil out of that trailer and suspension, this increased the vibration and flexing of the springs causing early fatigue. My boat is fairly light at 7,400 lbs, trailer and all fully loaded, plus the trailer is a 27 ft, rated at 9,400 lbs GVWR.
So will see how well these new springs last with my radial tires, I'll report back in about 10 yrs and let you know...!