Pre-Float checklist

D

DaveM

New member
As a newbie, I've searched this forum and others looking for pre-float checklists. I structured this pre-float checklist for a 22' Cruiser. Comments and newbie teasing welcome!

Pre-Float Checklist:
1 Turn off Battery Charger. Disconnect Shore Power and stow cables
2 Verify System and Starter power OFF
3 Prop and lower unit okay. Blades secure, no lower unit leaks
4 Check Engine oil resevoir level
5 Check Fuel level
6 Verify Fuel lines okay
7 Turn Fuel valve on
8 Verify Fire extinguishers charged
9 Verify Registration on board
10 Verify Life Jackets and Flares in place
11 Verify tool box secure
12 Ensure Steering and Throttle free and clear
13 Power on System and Starter Batteries
14 Verify Bilge pump operational
15 Verify Navigation lights functioning
16 Verify People and gear secure
17 Shifter in neutral
18 Start engine
19 Cast off all lines
20 Stow bumpers
 
One more newbie tease.... If you don't do step 17 (if it's not in neutral), 18 isn't necessary because it won't start... :mrgreen:

Also, HERE is a good checklist to use before you get underway with the trailer!

Charlie
 
Someplace in there, like right after "Start Engines" I would add Power on the electronics,, radio etc. They like to have some warm up time, and after the OB's are running the electrical voltage should be stable.

If you do a Vessel Safety Check at the beginning of the season, your fire extinguisher and flares should be current and in place.

As to the PFD's, My choice os to Wear It.

Good job on the list, and Roger beat me to the "bumper" thing.

Enjoy,

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

SSC_CPR_and_Patient_278.thumb.jpg
 
Not sure if you keep the boat in the water or on the trailer between uses but that could affect the list a bit. Also, I like to streamline things by nature so bear with me. As will all things. Your boat use will get slicker and easier for you with each passing day. These are the thoughts I had while reading your list.

Pre-Float Checklist:
1 Turn off Battery Charger. Disconnect Shore Power and stow cables

You could likely leave the charger on as it's power draw is not likely to harm things upon re-connection.


2 Verify System and Starter power OFF

If you are referring to the battery switch, it could be left on as well unless you have something that pulls more power at rest than you charger puts back in.

3 Prop and lower unit okay. Blades secure, no lower unit leaks

This could be observed/combined with next steps

4 Check Engine oil resevoir level
5 Check Fuel level

always fill it after use and skip the check

6 Verify Fuel lines okay

Seems like a seasonal check would be enough

7 Turn Fuel valve on

Did you need to turn it off?

8 Verify Fire extinguishers charged

Seems like a seasonal check would be enough

9 Verify Registration on board

Always keep it on board and skip the check

10 Verify Life Jackets and Flares in place

do you move them somewhere else? If not, just check the flares seasonally for expiration and try getting used to wearing the PFD as Harvey suggests. If it is a comfort thing, try the slim, inflatable type.

11 Verify tool box secure

secure it well enough to avoid this check and if your like me (always tinkering) you will be verifying it all the time anyway

12 Ensure Steering and Throttle free and clear

When you sit down at the helm this will be readily apparent and could be wiped off the list perhaps. At the motor end, you will see it when you check the oil reservoir.

13 Power on System and Starter Batteries

Leave them on if you have a charger connected anyway and use the boat regularly

14 Verify Bilge pump operational

I often check the pumps a few times a season before longer trips and not with each use. A check every use seems excessive

15 Verify Navigation lights functioning

Are you out in the dark much? Periodic check is good.

16 Verify People and gear secure
17 Shifter in neutral

Would you ever leave it in another position after use?

18 Start engine

It really is important that you do this before step 19. That is something most everyone has botched once or twice.

19 Cast off all lines
20 Stow bumpers

Also, consider if these checks should be after use or before use becuase things like prop condition are more likely to change after use than after non-use and if there was a problem there is more you can do about it between uses than right before a trip out.
 
To those who replied,
Thank you! Great edits. The boat will be kept in a slip. I especially like the seasonal checks. My goal was to stream-line my pre-float by using a list and think about where I was on the boat to minimize running fore and aft because I'd created a list that didn't account for that.

I laughed at myself on comments about keeping the engine in neutral. You mean I can't pull in the clutch and start the engine? :roll: All comments on putting the engine in neutral are excellent. Obviously, that's where it would be from the previous use.

Here's the updated list(s):
Pre-Float Checks
1 Turn off Battery Charger. Disconnect Shore Power and stow cables
2 Turn Fuel valve on
3 Power on System and Starter Batteries
4 Turn on Radio an GPS and Chart Plotters
5 Verify People and gear secure
6 Start engine
7 Cast off all lines
8 Stow Fenders

Shut Down list
1 Prop and lower unit okay. Blades secure, no lower unit leaks
2 Top off Engine oil resevoir level
3 Refill gasoline
4 Verify System and Starter power OFF

Seasonal
1 Verify Life Jackets and Flares in place
2 Verify tool box secure
3 Verify Fire extinguishers charged
4 Verify Registration on board
5 Verify Navigation lights functioning
6 Verify Fuel lines okay
7 Verify Bilge pump operational
 
Turn on electronics AFTER starting engine(s). The voltage spike will reset everything.

You are fighting a losing battle to make a list. Just do it for a season and then, write down what works!! If you forget something, it will become obvious, hopefully not dangerously or painfully obvious!
:thup

Charlie
 
Charlie,
Thank you for the reply. The charging circuits on my boat are only connected via a battery charger. The Starter battery is charged by shore power via the battery charger and once underway, the outboard's alternator. The other three system batteries are only charged by the battery charger and definitely not by the outboard's alternator. Do you think a spike would be able to travel back through the battery charger? To play it safe, I can do as you say and simply turn on system power AFTER the outboard is started.

After re-reading my note above, I want to emphasize that my question is sincere. I am not yet familiar with the variety of circuits on my boat.

Also, I agree that the check-list is likely overkill. Writing it down has been a helpful exercise for me and I'm grateful for the excellent comments from the C-Brats.
 
Don't forget install plug. Nothing will ruin your day more quickly than your boat sinking at the dock while you're parking your rig & trailer. :shock:
 
I was trying to think of what I do that isn't on your list.

1. Make sure radio antenna is up or at least secure so it won't fall during travel (don't ask me how I know about that).

2. I kept my dock lines on the boat rigged for single handling the boat (that is I kept them attached to cleats) so make sure that they are secure because you don't want a stern line going overboard and messing with your prop.

3. Are you boating in salt water? If so, at the end of each trip, I always sprayed the boat with fresh water to get the salt off of it. I also flushed my motors. Not sure how you'd do that on a 22.

4. Since you're in an enclosed cabin 22, I'd also install a carbon monoxide detector and check the batteries several times a season.

5. seasonally, I'd apply RainX on the windows. Helped greatly with salt spray and rain.

Hope this helps,

-Sarge
 
10/17/11

From the National Park Service's "Morning Report":

Lake Roosevelt National Recreation Area (WA)
One Killed, One Injured In Boating Accident

On October 7th, rangers and Lincoln County deputies responded to a report of an out-of-control vessel on the water outside of Keller Ferry Marina. A 61-year-old man and his 53-year-old wife were traveling upriver on plane when the steering arm came free from the engine bracket, causing the vessel to lurch into a tight counter-clockwise spin and ejecting both of them into the water. Arriving Rangers determined it was too dangerous (to stop the errant vessel)and kept other boat traffic away while they waited for it to run out of gas. The man was found to be unconscious and suffering from lacerations to his left foot caused by the boat's propeller. Despite efforts by medical personnel, he was pronounced dead at the scene. The woman was flown to Sacred Heart Medical Center in Spokane, where she was treated and recovered. The nut and washer that held the steering arm onto the engine bracket were found resting in the transom of the boat, with the bolt still in place on the engine bracket. Rangers noted that the occupants were not wearing lifejackets and that a kill switch was not used. This is the second recorded boating accident at Lake Roosevelt involving the separation of a nut and bolt from a steering assembly since August, 2010. Park staff who operate vessels are urged to inspect this connection as part of their "pre-flight" checklist.
[Submitted by Marty Huseman, Chief Ranger]

Casey
 
I have always turned on all my electonics before i start the motors.Never had a problem. 1st thing i always do before launching my boat is ...check drain plug...2nd ..motor is tilted up...than the rest . Tug
 
Back
Top