I like to remove all the fuel possible from the Mary Ellen before storing her for the winter. I have tried various methods to drain the two 25 gallon tanks. I purchased a spare hose with a pumping ball a couple of years ago. I put one end of the hose down thru the fill tube and hold a 5 gallon tank at a height above the tanks and with a little pumping I usually can get a flow going. Then I put the can on the shop floor until it is full. I have to adjust the hose to maintain flow several times. This year I purchased an extra female end from Honda that fit on the hose and would plug into the 25 gallon factory tank fitting. I just completed emptying the tanks today and I have to say it worked better than anything I have tried before. I was able to get just about all the gas out in short order. It was a much cleaner operation with the hose plugged into the factory tanks without pulling the hose in and out of the fill tubes.
Removing fuel from a C-dory 22 crusier
- Thread starter Big Mac
- Start date
Big Mac-
Do you experience any condensation in the empty tanks during winter storage?
Where is the boat stored?
What temperature ranges does it experience?
What is the local humidity range?
No doubt totally empty and dry is better than full or half full if the condensation problem doesn't occur, plus you get the gas out and it can't get old on you!
Joe. :teeth :thup
Do you experience any condensation in the empty tanks during winter storage?
Where is the boat stored?
What temperature ranges does it experience?
What is the local humidity range?
No doubt totally empty and dry is better than full or half full if the condensation problem doesn't occur, plus you get the gas out and it can't get old on you!
Joe. :teeth :thup
Hello Joe, I have never had any problem with condenstion. I have twin Racor filters. I keep the boat in an enclosed shop in the winter. My biggest concern has been the gas going bad. I use Blue Stabil, but feel better to put in fresh gas in the spring. I suppose I could take the gas out in the spring, but it always seems to make since to do it before winter.
starcrafttom
Active member
fishing works best for me to remove all the fuel. Just go out until the boat is almost dry or is dry and use a 3 gallon can as a back up to get you to the dock in case you misjudge. What do you do with the gas? just dump it or use it in a car?
Big Mac":381okqlu said:
I have been running the tanks nearly dry at end of the season, then fill with all fresh gas, mixing in the heavy dose of both blue Stabil and Startron. This is the program recommended by my Yamaha mechanics. it has always worked (6 years) witnessed by starting on the first crank, after as much as 6 months one year. Usually it is 4 months of storage after oil changes and fogging. Of course, YMMV.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
I mentioned my solution a while back - pick up an electric fuel pump, some quick disconnects for the fuel supply line coming off your Racor filter, and pump the tanks dry.
Works like a charm - far easier than siphoning, and gets more fuel out of the tanks.
Works like a charm - far easier than siphoning, and gets more fuel out of the tanks.
I also like topping off my fuel tanks instead of draining them. Storing your boat with drained tanks can be counterproductive in that it exposed your fuel tanks to excessive condensation; full tanks don’t condensate.
Triple J is stored for over 6 months every winter, topping off the tanks has always worked for me. Have never used fuel stabilizer, there is no Corn gas in Alaska. I toss in a couple cans of SeaFoam for pre-season and add SeaFoam again mid season for added protection. The SeaFoam will help clean out any residue or varnish from evaporation in the engine fuel system.
If you even remotely think you have every put Corn-Fuel in your boat add Sta-Bil marine additive for off season storage.
Triple J is stored for over 6 months every winter, topping off the tanks has always worked for me. Have never used fuel stabilizer, there is no Corn gas in Alaska. I toss in a couple cans of SeaFoam for pre-season and add SeaFoam again mid season for added protection. The SeaFoam will help clean out any residue or varnish from evaporation in the engine fuel system.
If you even remotely think you have every put Corn-Fuel in your boat add Sta-Bil marine additive for off season storage.
My personal feeling is that plane Sta-bil will not prevent ethanol problems:
From the Sta-bil web site:
"Q: What is the difference between STA-BIl Fuel Stabilizer, Marine Formula STA-BIL, and the new STA-BIL Ethanol Treatment products?
A: STA-BIL® Fuel Stabilizer is designed for use during STORAGE of any gasoline equipment or vehicle stored for 30 days or more, or used infrequently. It will keep gas fresh for 12 months, and help prevent corrosion, and gum and varnish formation. It is effective in all gasolines, including Ethanol blends, including E-85.
Marine Formula STA-BIL® Ethanol Treatment was designed for use at every fill up for marine engines (boats, jetskis) to protect against the damaging effects experienced when using Ethanol blended fuels -- including corrosion caused by water attraction, and fuel system plugging caused by deposit loosening.
New STA-BIL Ethanol Treatment is designed for use at every fill up for all gasoline automotive and small engines for protection against these same problems."
I am now using the Marine formula STA-BIL in the boats. (I try and avoid ethanol tainted fuel). I have used Sea Foam several times a year, as well as Startron.
There is some question (especially with ethanol added fuel) about the full vs the empty tank.
http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/fuel tank storage.htm Which is discussed in this link. You have to make up your own mind.
We run boats year around, so we use the Marine STA-BIL, and keep the tanks as full as possible...but if I was going to store for 6 months, I might consider empty tanks--depending on where I lived.
From the Sta-bil web site:
"Q: What is the difference between STA-BIl Fuel Stabilizer, Marine Formula STA-BIL, and the new STA-BIL Ethanol Treatment products?
A: STA-BIL® Fuel Stabilizer is designed for use during STORAGE of any gasoline equipment or vehicle stored for 30 days or more, or used infrequently. It will keep gas fresh for 12 months, and help prevent corrosion, and gum and varnish formation. It is effective in all gasolines, including Ethanol blends, including E-85.
Marine Formula STA-BIL® Ethanol Treatment was designed for use at every fill up for marine engines (boats, jetskis) to protect against the damaging effects experienced when using Ethanol blended fuels -- including corrosion caused by water attraction, and fuel system plugging caused by deposit loosening.
New STA-BIL Ethanol Treatment is designed for use at every fill up for all gasoline automotive and small engines for protection against these same problems."
I am now using the Marine formula STA-BIL in the boats. (I try and avoid ethanol tainted fuel). I have used Sea Foam several times a year, as well as Startron.
There is some question (especially with ethanol added fuel) about the full vs the empty tank.
http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/fuel tank storage.htm Which is discussed in this link. You have to make up your own mind.
We run boats year around, so we use the Marine STA-BIL, and keep the tanks as full as possible...but if I was going to store for 6 months, I might consider empty tanks--depending on where I lived.
potter water
New member
A cheap fuel pump from Autozone, some hose and fittings and BLAM the fuel is emptied.
The BLAM is possible though, so keep a couple of good fire extinguishers close by.
I've been off loading fuel this way for years, but I've got long hose that puts the outlet of the fuel going to the container about 10 feet from the boat...just in case.
I don't know if any standard fire extinguisher would do the job if a 6 gallon jug caught fire, but the extinguishers make me feel good. I also stand way back during the pumping.
The BLAM is possible though, so keep a couple of good fire extinguishers close by.
I've been off loading fuel this way for years, but I've got long hose that puts the outlet of the fuel going to the container about 10 feet from the boat...just in case.
I don't know if any standard fire extinguisher would do the job if a 6 gallon jug caught fire, but the extinguishers make me feel good. I also stand way back during the pumping.
I use the Auto Zone type of fuel pumps for my polishing system. If the electric fuel pump is to be used in the boat, it must be "ignition protected"-this means that there is an insulating jacket around the outside of the pump, and terminals are bolt secured. The switch should be also ignition protected and outside of any fuel vapors. The tank you are pumping into and hose should be grounded to prevent static build up.
I have been transferring fuel with pumps for many years, and 'NO BLAM"--but you have to take precautions. I make sure that any potential spark producing part of the system is in a well ventilated area, where there will be no gasoline vapors...
If you have a Racor or similar filter, they have two ports in and two ports out. If you make an adaptor to draw from the "in" port you will not pull fuel thru the filter, and will in essence be pulling directly from the tank. But with any of these setups you will only get as low as where the fuel draw tube sits, and some fuel may remain.
I have been transferring fuel with pumps for many years, and 'NO BLAM"--but you have to take precautions. I make sure that any potential spark producing part of the system is in a well ventilated area, where there will be no gasoline vapors...
If you have a Racor or similar filter, they have two ports in and two ports out. If you make an adaptor to draw from the "in" port you will not pull fuel thru the filter, and will in essence be pulling directly from the tank. But with any of these setups you will only get as low as where the fuel draw tube sits, and some fuel may remain.