Spring service question

[westward]

Greetings.
1. It's been 4 years, time to service the water pumps on both outboards (Honda 135 and 8HP kicker, both <200 total hrs.). When this is done, is just the impeller replaced, or is it best practice to replace the entire pump, or some other degree of additional maintenance beyond the rubber impeller itself?

2. Neglected maintenance last year to a shameful degree. I'm additionally planning to have the dealer perform the following: a. Oil and filters both engines. b. lower unit gear oil both engines. c. all internal fuel filters both engines. d. Replace main Racor spin-on filter and bowl and provide a spare. e. Replace all internal and external sacrificial anodes on both motors. f. Remove both props to the thrust bearings, inspect, grease spline shafts, reinstall with new pins. g. grease all Zerk fittings both engines, plus any additional recommended engine cable or other lubrication. h. Charge both batteries + visual inspection of electrical system.

Does this seem reasonable and sufficient to you guys? Have I forgotten something?

3. Last time out (boat had sat unstarted >3 months) main motor started up and initially ran fine, but began to stumble/miss when above about 4,100 RPM. Shut down, re-started, and it ran fine (~ 8 mile run to our cabin) when kept under 4,000 rpm, all on calm seas. On the return trip same thing happened: ran fine up to and at 3,900 RPM, but began to stumble during a test burst to 4500 RPM, then would only run smoothly at displacement speeds. With it and the kicker in tandem we got home fine. Seemed like classic fuel-related issues, but little to no water was visible in Racor drain bowl. Between the 2 runs, I added one can of Seafoam to ~20 gal. existing fuel in the tank, and I routinely use Sta-Bil marine in any fuel added to the boat. Any ideas? I understand I've set myself up for "ideas" involving better boat maintenance


Thanks in advance for your ideas and suggestions.

Mike

 

[localboy]

The impeller service usually includes the impeller, a seal and a housing. Our Suzuki main also has a S/S plate that the impeller rides on. Not a hard job to do yourself.

You list seems complete but I'd also change the spark plugs.

 

[thataway]

We do the yearly or 100 hour service; which comes first--most years it is yearly.

That includes the engine, filters, lower unit, prop, and fuel filter. The thermostats, internal anodes may be at 200 hours--depending...Honda gives 200 hours for filter--we do it yearly or 100 hours. Valve clearances should be checked every 200 or so hours, plugs replace (depending on types of plugs) 200 hours)s

Generally water pumps are 200 hour maintenance, but with fresh water, no sand and silt / good "pee" stream some go to 300 hours...

It depends on the condition of the pump housing lining--but several times, I have replaced the pump housing lining as well as impeller and seals. All of the bolts and shafts should be cleaned, and lubed or some anti corrosion grease applied. One of the issues in the Honda Lower units, the corrosion of bolts, and having to replace/rethread/helicoil if they are corroded. So just taking the bolts out and putting on neversieze is another part of the maintenance.

 

[ssobol]

... Valve clearances should be checked every 200 or so hours, ...

Do the valve clearances actually change much? I used to have a car that had checking the valve clearances every X miles. I did it a few times as scheduled and never found that it changed enough to make adjusting it worth the trouble. After awhile I just stopped doing it. Never had any problems.

The BF90D engine is the same as in the Honda Fit (which I also have). The Fit maintenance manual says that the valve clearance should be checked every 30K miles (I think, but I'll need to check). If you assume an average speed of 45 miles/hour, that works out to be about every 660 hours.