Trailer Brakes

T

toyman

New member
Picked up my new trailer today and have a question for those who know about these things. It won't backup !?!? I see no mechanical lock on the surge actuator, but instead of the 4 prong plug, the trailer has a 5 prong plug, the 5th has a blue wire on it - normally for electric brakes. But this trailer has surge brakes so I'm guessing that this probably ties into the backup light circuit on the pickup - just don't know how other than physically tap into the B/U light circuit and run a separate wire - is this what I need to do >

4 wheel drive low range and I CAN back the trailer - talk about push coming to shove !
 
I had the same problem. The blue wire does go to the backup solenoid. I created a workaround though for those times when my blood pressure went up because of backing problems. On the brake unit sides just to the rear of the hitch connector you should see a slot about 1 1/2" long with what looks like the end of a bar with a retainer clip in it. That "bar" slides back and forth in that slot. When it is at the back of the slot the brakes are on and locked. I modified a C- clamp so that both ends would fit in that slot, one on each side. I put it on with the brakes unlocked (round bar to the front of the slot) and tighten it just enough to keep it from falling off. That effectively blocks out the brakes. I use it when backing down the launch ramp if the backup solenoid is acting up (as it is now!). You must remember to remove the C-clamp at all other times however since you have disabled the trailer brakes :shock:
 
I cut a piece of 2x4 to fit in the gap and hold it in place with a bungee cord. Works for me. If you lose it, no big loss.

Now if someone would point me to a windshield wiper place that can sell me a 14" blade or a longer arm so the swipes clean the window in fron of me and not the upper 1/3 of the window.
 
When our backup lockout quit the first time (yeah, there were many times), I cut some wood to fit in the gap and put that in there, same as Jack. Last fall we had our trailer modified to electric over hydraulic, and it is SO much better. No problems with backing, going downhill, and the lurching of the surge with stop and go traffic.

Best wishes,
Jim B.
 
Agree with Jim on the electric over hydraulic. However, they do have one fun trick:-
If you drive without the boat on the trailer, don't forget to back off the brake settings on the controller otherwise the person behind you is likely to have a brown shorts episode when you lock up all the wheels at the next traffic light and there is a large cloud of blue smoke.
Stops 'em tailgating though :twisted:

Merv
 
Grumpy":nkj8w1u6 said:
Agree with Jim on the electric over hydraulic. However, they do have one fun trick:-
If you drive without the boat on the trailer, don't forget to back off the brake settings on the controller otherwise the person behind you is likely to have a brown shorts episode when you lock up all the wheels at the next traffic light and there is a large cloud of blue smoke.
Stops 'em tailgating though :twisted:

Merv
Click to expand...
Oh, yeah. My car hauler has electric discs and I like them so much more and my F-250 has the factory built in controller.
 
Thru all my upgrades/installs for the boat, I forgot all about the braking on the trailer. The dealer put the lockout pin in the trailer when we took the boat home the first time - that way I'd be able to back up if needed - but as I found out, I also had no brakes on the trailer. This was not a problem with the F150 but of course I want the brakes working.

So on this trip I drove to London, ON with the brakes on and I knew I was not able to backup without switching the pin to the lockout. When I got to London - I purchased a round 7 pin plug that goes right into the trucks trailer light receptical. Worked great - I can now backup without putting in the pin.
 
Relying on a lock-out pin that you have to exit the vehicle and set can be pretty awkward, especially if you have to back up in an emergency, or in a difficult/dangerous traffic situation.

Some lock-out pins have an automatic re-set feature which disengages them and restores normal surge brake function as soon as you move forward and pull on the trailer tongue. This is a nice safety feature, but you have to get out and re-set the pin each time you want to back up, something very bothersome in difficult "back into" situations that require multiple forward/reverse moves.

I quickly gave up and went with the solenoid lock-out!!! :lol:

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Toyman,
I had the same problem but my 01 Chevy had a factory towing package. I just replaced my old four pin adapter with a five pin adapter and plugged it in and it worked fine. The new truck will have a brake controller and then the trailer will get converted to electric over hydraulic and as Jim said that clunking from taking up the slack is something I can live with out.
D.D.
 
Thanks D.D., I found a 7 pin adaptor with both 4 & 5 pin sockets on it at WallyWorld, plugged it into the 01 Dodge and "IT WORKS!!". No more 2x4.
 
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