Trailer Problem

[Sundog]

Hi There,

I was hoping someone might be able to help me with a small problem I am having with my King Trailer. When I touch the breaks I get a bit of a lurch from the boat trailer, as if the boat trailer is not breaking correctly in unison with my vehicle.

If any one has any thoughts on what to check for that would be great - it is a dual axle with a Titan.

Thanks,

Joe (Sundog)

 

[Captains Cat]

Joe, I don't have 'lectric brakes on my boat trailer but I do on a landscape trailer and on my camping trailer. If you have electric brakes, you should have a controller down near your knees somewhere that has a pendelum in it. The slant on that controller is important as it senses the motion of the tow vehicle. On some there's also an adjustment, probably a potentiometer on it. I'd take it to somewhere that sells trailers and have them look at it or else (if you're like most of us), play with it a little and see if you can fix it. DONT DO IT AT 60Mph though, do it at a slow speed.

Good luck..

Charlie

 

[Bess-C]

Hi Joe,
This may be as simple as adjusting your brakes. If you have drum brakes on your trailer, they do get out of adjustment. Because most of us have disk brakes on our vehicles now, we've forgotten about the need for adjustment on drum brakes. I adjusted my brakes this weekend, and it eliminated the pause and clunk between putting on your brakes and your trailer surge brakes starting to work. If you look on the back of your brakes, there is a slot with a rubber cover. If you remove it you will see a star wheel. Tighten it down until you can no longer turn the wheel by hand. Back it off 10 or 11 clicks and your brakes should be adjusted. On my King trailer there is a label on the back of the brake that tells you how to do this.
Lyle

 

[Sea Wolf]

Joe- I'm no trailer brake expert, but over the years one gains a certain familiarity with the operation of these things!

You say you're getting a "lurch" when using the brakes. Does this mean they don't seem to activate at first, but then come on after some pushing is done on the tow vehicle? If so, it would most probably mean the shoes are in need of adjustment.

First make sure that the fluid resevoir is full, the lock-out (if so equipped) is disengaged (it does so automaticly when the vehicle pulls on the coupler), and watch someone else back the tow vehicle up to see that the hydraulic activator hinges when push back and appears to apply hydraulic pressure to the cylinders.

How long has it been since the brakes were adjusted? (I'm assuming you have drum brakes. Disc brakes do not require adjustment-just like a car.)


If you feel comfortable with the mechanical details, try the following:

Jack up one wheel and see if it turns with any drum drag without any pressure from the hydraulic activator. Use a star drag brake adjustment tool to set up the drum/shoe adjustment until the adjustment nut feels solidly against the limit and is pushing the shoe against the drum, then back off at least five clicks or until the drum turns relatively freely. Do the same on the other wheel(s). Now try out the vehicle on the road.

If you haven't packed the bearings and replaced the seals in awhile, it would also be appropriate to dismount the wheels to do this and at the same time, inspect the entire brake wheel assembly. This would allow you to detect worn or wet shoes and/or wheel cylinder problems, etc.

While you're at it, be sure to inspect the entire hydraulic system for leakage. Also, sometimes a problem develops when the fluid level in the actuator cylinder has not been kept up, and air has been allowed into the system, creating weak or non-existent braking. In this case, the system will have to be bled.

If in doublt about getting involved with the mechnics of the brake system beyond checking fluid level and apparent acuation, have a competent trailer shop check out your system. Even the activator assemblies themselves get old, worn, and rusty, and can need replacement. Let us know what you find out! Joe (Sea Wolf).