Trailer winch: cable or strap?

S

Sunbeam

Active member
So I can stop hijacking my own thread on side guides, I'll start a new one with my winch question. I have read over quite a few threads in the archives, and with the knowledge gained have chosen a winch that looks good (Fulton T2605). This winch can be bought set up for either strap or cable (but you have to choose one or the other at time of purchase).

I have nothing against wire rope (cable) in general, but on the face of it, a strap seems more appealing in this case. No corrosion and no chance of overwraps. (I would probably make a little cover to keep the UV off the strap, or else plan on replacing it more often.) My current winch has an aged, in need-of-replacement cable and relatively little pulling power, btw (see chart). It's also kind of rusty and tired overall (my boat was kept in a building all its life, but the trailer was outdoors).

So, is there any reason (besides UV) that I *wouldn't* want a winch with a strap instead of a cable?

Here's a chart showing my original winch (T2025), the oft-recommended T3700, and the T2605, which is my current favorite.

Fulton_winch_information_chart.jpg

One other question: The chart shows that my current winch, and the T2605 both have neutral, but the oft-recommended T3700 doesn't. How does this affect actual launching/retrieving?

Sunbeam
 
I'm a strap fan. Just replaced the original 7 year old one this year. Inexpensive and easy. I also use a ratcheting tiedown from the bow eye to the trailer frame as a backup to the chain from the bow eye. Easy to do, just shorten the tiedown and connect to the frame with a locking carabiner. I would worry about cables in salt water, too much opportunity for hidden corrosion.
 
Get a strap and in 4 years trade the ends around for more use. I could not throw away a strap just because the last 6 feet are faded or even starting to rot. Just swap it or even cut off 5 feet and resew it.
 
Okay, so far strap is sounding good. That was my inclination, but I figured I'd check with you all who have launched and retrieved a lot more than I have ('course "zero" is a pretty easy number to beat :wink:).

Colobear, you reminded me of another thing on my list. I've been using a line to provide additional security at the bow (from bow eye to a welded eye directly below it on the trailer, with many wraps and frapping turns), but I like an idea I found here in the archives, which is to replace that with a turnbuckle and a length of chain (or a strap as you mention would work too - not hard to improve on my current method).

Sunbeam
 
I vote for strap, my last one I replaced after 6 years, was at the ramp one day and a brand new North River was pulling out with brand new cable on the trailer, the boat was soon sitting on the hard when the cable broke. Fortunately with the shape of the bow and 6 of us we got it on the trailer. It can happen on straps too though if not maintained or defective.
 
Sunbeam-

Your choice, but I'd use :

1. A strap on the winch with a strap on the nose-tie down, or

2. A cable on the winch with a turnbuckle on the nose tie-down.

Number 1 uses more or less elastic components, whereas #2 uses less elastic components.

I think they're more compatible when matched that way, and think you wouldn't want an elastic winch strap with a rigid, no-give, nose tie down element like the turnbuckle.

This last combination would work/stress the turnbuckle as the winch strap flexes. (Even though they are working theoretically at right angles.)

No problem in the short run, but over the long haul…………..

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
We use winch straps on both boats we own. On the Caracal we have used a strap with cam cleat for the down strap to the trailer---and on the C Dory we use a chain, but not tight.

I don't know of many trailers which come with cable these days. The only cable winch I use is on my crane davits at the house, that is either an hand winch or an Armstrong electric winch.
 
Sea Wolf":9gde1i3b said:
Your choice, but I'd use :

1. A strap on the winch with a strap on the nose-tie down, or

2. A cable on the winch with a turnbuckle on the nose tie-down.

Number 1 uses more or less elastic components, whereas #2 uses less elastic components.

I think they're more compatible when matched that way,
Click to expand...

I'm not totally following this. I'll explain what I'm thinking and then maybe you can see where I'm not getting it.

So okay, let's say I have a strap on the winch. The strap has some stretch over a longer length, but if the boat is winched up tightly to the roller, there is only about 1" exposed. I don't see where that would have a lot of stretch. It doesn't seem like the strap that's rolled up on the winch would "count" in this case as it's not in play. So I don't see a difference in "hardness" between a cable and a strap if they are both rolled all the way in.

On the other hand, a strap leading from the bow eye to the trailer frame (welded eye there) would be longer, so I could see that stretching and allowing bounce, which is what I want to avoid.

Sunbeam
 
thataway":5p5v25s5 said:
We use winch straps on both boats we own.
Click to expand...

DaveS":5p5v25s5 said:
Strap...works great and no danger of ever getting little itty bitty wires stuck in your hands.... :shock:
Click to expand...
Meathooks... ugh!

Thanks, it looks like an order is going in for the T2605 with strap :thup

Sunbeam

PS: For future reference, the Fulton T2605 with strap is part# FT2605Z0301
 
I use a strap as well (which needs to be replaced, so thanks for the reminder Sunbeam...). I also attach 2 safety chains, 1 that comes across from under the winch post and 1 that comes up from the trailer.

Rob
 
Sunbeam":12h5nqvi said:
Sea Wolf":12h5nqvi said:
Your choice, but I'd use :

1. A strap on the winch with a strap on the nose-tie down, or

2. A cable on the winch with a turnbuckle on the nose tie-down.

Number 1 uses more or less elastic components, whereas #2 uses less elastic components.

I think they're more compatible when matched that way,
Click to expand...

I'm not totally following this. I'll explain what I'm thinking and then maybe you can see where I'm not getting it.

So okay, let's say I have a strap on the winch. The strap has some stretch over a longer length, but if the boat is winched up tightly to the roller, there is only about 1" exposed. I don't see where that would have a lot of stretch. It doesn't seem like the strap that's rolled up on the winch would "count" in this case as it's not in play. So I don't see a difference in "hardness" between a cable and a strap if they are both rolled all the way in.

On the other hand, a strap leading from the bow eye to the trailer frame (welded eye there) would be longer, so I could see that stretching and allowing bounce, which is what I want to avoid.

Sunbeam
Click to expand...

Sunbeam-

What I'm thinking is that the rolled up strap is somewhat compressible compared to the rolled up cable, but one would have to test that assumption out, of course.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Sea Wolf":dm56982t said:
What I'm thinking is that the rolled up strap is somewhat compressible compared to the rolled up cable, but one would have to test that assumption out, of course.
Click to expand...

Okay, I see what you mean. I think I'll still go with the strap winch and the chain/turnbuckle leading down, but maybe I will add a second "non stretchy" connection paralleling the winch strap. I could perhaps splice something from high-tech line, or use a (load rated) shackle or quick link or something. At any rate, I'll keep that in mind once I get the winch set up and see how things sit.

Thanks,
Sunbeam
 
RobMcClain":1ue0y8ly said:
I use a strap as well (which needs to be replaced, so thanks for the reminder Sunbeam...). I also attach 2 safety chains, 1 that comes across from under the winch post and 1 that comes up from the trailer.
Rob
Click to expand...

Ditto, the above in quotes is exactly what I do. As far as any stretch involved.....so far that has never been an issue on either my 16' Cruiser Boat/Trailer set up or my 22'.

At any rate, I always pull to the side of the road after I've towed the first few miles and do a total "walk around" of my "tow" checking the hitch, safety chains, electrical wiring, lights, winch strap, bow eye safety chains, hub temps, etc. etc. Always check your tow from your mirrors while traveling and every hour or 100 miles pull off to the side of the road and do another "walk about". I'm very consistent in my procedures so I'm less likely to miss a step.
 
DaveS":1mzliufq said:
At any rate, I always pull to the side of the road after I've towed the first few miles and do a total "walk around" of my "tow" checking the hitch, safety chains, electrical wiring, lights, winch strap, bow eye safety chains, hub temps, etc. etc. Always check your tow from your mirrors while traveling and every hour or 100 miles pull off to the side of the road and do another "walk about". I'm very consistent in my procedures so I'm less likely to miss a step.
Click to expand...

That's good advice. I too have a routine I do the same way each time I stop, so that it becomes ingrained. Not that it's necessary, because you can just put a hand to them, but I have a handheld IR thermometer that's kind of fun to point at the hubs, tires, etc. to see how they are doing. I also watch my mirrors like a hawk when underway, in addition to the Scangauge. So far, so good -- although I was darned nervous on my first trip, especially going over the big passes (had never towed a trailer with hydraulic brakes before). As I was approaching them the first time, I felt like I needed one of those mountain climber/gymnast chalk bags because my hands were sweating so much. Good thing the wheel has spokes! The other nerve-wracking thing was my first few really skinny, down-to-one-tiny-lane with huge trenches on either side, 20-mile-long construction zones. Whew!

It's gotten easier with a few more miles' experience, but I still don't know how people actually "forget it's back there" when they are towing. Maybe it's better not to anyway. This has been a good thread so far (and further replies are certainly not discouraged). Next on my list of "new things" is actually launching and retrieving. May have to start a new topic for that, when the time comes.

Sunbeam
 
I have used both on the RF246 and would comment :-

1. Cable is very hard to rewind evenly, will kink and/or jam eventually and you WILL get nasty bits of very sharp, rusty steel in your fingers.
2. If you use an electric winch, it will NOT lock in the fully wound position like a manual winch and the weight of your boat on a ramp may cause the winch to unwind. It will certainly loosen up while driving and once a boat gets some movement you develop a LOT of kinetic energy which can break things. (Don't ask !!)
3. A tie down strap/turnbuckle at the bow is essential to prevent up / down motion as the trailer flexes. I personally use a 3000lb rated trucker type ratcheted tie down hooking into the safety chain.

I also use a 3000 lb ratcheted tie down around the transom and back foreward to the trailer.

M
 
I am more worried about stopping the boat from going forward in a SUDDEN stop.

Most everything I have seen is for stopping the boat from going backwards except the winch stand.

I am new at trailering so may be wrong.

Bill Kelleher
 
Another one here for straps.

I like the manual handling with bare hands.

I like the ability to better inspect it for damage

I like the ease of replacement.

I also like neutral on a winch for "paying" out length quickly to reach out for the boat eye when needed without a bunch of unloaded cranking required.
 
Bill K":29d351ly said:
I am more worried about stopping the boat from going forward in a SUDDEN stop.

Most everything I have seen is for stopping the boat from going backwards except the winch stand.
Click to expand...

I'm also new to boat trailering, but I have tied a lot of kayaks onto roof racks, and I noticed the same thing. My boat doesn't have the typical "U-bolts" on the transom, but with most trailers it seems that straps from those would lead forward (or at best straight down), and that wouldn't keep the boat from going forward. Having the boat want to "reverse" is probably a lot less likely. Not too many "panic starts."

I did trailer a former (small) sailboat cross country once, and, when a friend was driving (who was not used to snow, but I didn't realize that since he was from up north) we had an incident of severe fishtailing combined with some braking. Amazingly, we kept it on the road, and the boat stayed strapped to the trailer (I had a strap over the cockpit and down to both sides of the trailer frame, plus sturdy bow attachment to winch stand). But the entire winch stand bent and deformed, and the boat came forward past it (it gouged the port bow). It didn't come off the trailer or hit the car, so that was good. The boat and trailer both sustained damage though. So the winch stand may not always be that strong either, ultimately.

I guess the best you can hope for is a rig wherein the boat stays attached to the trailer, and parts like the winch stand are not especially weak compared to the whole system. At some point the whole boat and trailer would simply move together in a calamity, since the trailer is mobile. But that doesn't mean one shouldn't do ones's best to attach the boat to the trailer. I keep an eye out for parallelograms that could simply shift directions (like the example you mentioned).

Once when trailering a small but very fancy custom-built/varnished wooden boat cross country, I made a cross-boat tie down "bar" that ran through the oarlocks. Lines ran from that down to the trailer frame. This was nice because tightening it didn't cause any chafing or direct pressure on the boat. It made me think about designing some sort of padded "yoke" that would go across the C-Dory cockpit and from which lines could be taken down to the trailer frame. No chafe, no "pinching" and a nice, secure tie down. That's nowhere near the top of my list though, and it might not even be that great an idea anyway, so I just use a strap for now, with carpeting taped to it where it contacts the boat. Seems like there might be a better way though, something like that oarlock system.

Sunbeam
 
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