does anyone ever have an issue with the black trim strip that is on the top edge of transom lifting near the swim platforms area,was wondering if the transom is sealed off under the trim or if the trim was the only thing keeping water out. ours isn't real bad but i'm concerned if caulking the seam is enough.
transom trim lifting
- Thread starter cpt vic
- Start date
The trim on my boat is not lifting, so this data is from my musing, and from things I have read here in the past.
1) At some point in the past, a rep from the builder (may have been Scot from Triton, or maybe Jeff M. from past days - I'll try to look it up in my archives) said on this forum that the black transom top trim was a flat strip that was custom bent with heat and then attached with methacrylate adhesive. So that is accurate at least for some point in time.
2) I think it's safe to at least assume that not all transoms were properly sealed at the top (under the trim). For me that means that I would never be sure about any particular boat without actually checking it. By "properly" I mean actually fiberglassed (other people may have different definitions).
For my own boat, ultimately I would like to remove the black trim, fiberglass underneath (if it is not already), and then reinstall it (maybe) just for looks. Meanwhile, I'm reasonably comfortable because the trim is firmly attached, and I have done enough transom work to know it is dry now. So it is lower down on the priority list.
Sunbeam
1) At some point in the past, a rep from the builder (may have been Scot from Triton, or maybe Jeff M. from past days - I'll try to look it up in my archives) said on this forum that the black transom top trim was a flat strip that was custom bent with heat and then attached with methacrylate adhesive. So that is accurate at least for some point in time.
2) I think it's safe to at least assume that not all transoms were properly sealed at the top (under the trim). For me that means that I would never be sure about any particular boat without actually checking it. By "properly" I mean actually fiberglassed (other people may have different definitions).
For my own boat, ultimately I would like to remove the black trim, fiberglass underneath (if it is not already), and then reinstall it (maybe) just for looks. Meanwhile, I'm reasonably comfortable because the trim is firmly attached, and I have done enough transom work to know it is dry now. So it is lower down on the priority list.
Sunbeam
Hi Cpt Vic,
I have that problem at the port end of the transom on my 1999 CD16 cruiser. The way that strip behaves, it sure seems to be formed. The corner curve does not flex. I haven't been able to see much of the transom edge, not wanting to pry, but maybe I should. That site is aggravated because it is where I mount my kicker. The motor clamps are a tight fit over the rubber cap and, sometimes, the clamp pads on the motor give the cap a tug or two as I lift the motor away. May not have caused the problem, but probably doesn't help.
I'm away from the boat these days and can't give more info. Florida weather is improving, but I'm glad to have escaped last month in BC.
Rod
I have that problem at the port end of the transom on my 1999 CD16 cruiser. The way that strip behaves, it sure seems to be formed. The corner curve does not flex. I haven't been able to see much of the transom edge, not wanting to pry, but maybe I should. That site is aggravated because it is where I mount my kicker. The motor clamps are a tight fit over the rubber cap and, sometimes, the clamp pads on the motor give the cap a tug or two as I lift the motor away. May not have caused the problem, but probably doesn't help.
I'm away from the boat these days and can't give more info. Florida weather is improving, but I'm glad to have escaped last month in BC.
Rod
Here is what I copied from the list from an earlier day. It was written by Andrew Custis, whom I believe used to work for C-Dory, and then moved on to Ranger Tugs. It also includes his suggestion for removing the brass transom drain and replacing it (bonus info 
)
The easiest way that we removed those [transom] drains [tubes] was to use an air saw and cut the drain just through the brass. I agree 100% on replacing it with a screw in plug. The black plastic [transom top cover trim] is secured from the factory with an epoxy called Methacrylate. If you use acetone to clean it will dull and you can re-buff it at a very slow speed with a fine compound to shine it up nicely. Hope this helps.
I believe I remember Scot from Triton (I visited them in 2012 and talked with him in the shop) telling me that the black strip starts out flat, and they used a heat gun to form it to the curves.
Sunbeam
) The easiest way that we removed those [transom] drains [tubes] was to use an air saw and cut the drain just through the brass. I agree 100% on replacing it with a screw in plug. The black plastic [transom top cover trim] is secured from the factory with an epoxy called Methacrylate. If you use acetone to clean it will dull and you can re-buff it at a very slow speed with a fine compound to shine it up nicely. Hope this helps.
I believe I remember Scot from Triton (I visited them in 2012 and talked with him in the shop) telling me that the black strip starts out flat, and they used a heat gun to form it to the curves.
Sunbeam
The hull to deck are joined under this black cap. The deck molding includes the side decks and splash well, as well as the cabin and foredeck.
In our 25 there was minimal if any glass in some areas on the top of the transom, but there was resin and the wood core was sealed. There should be a layer of glass--at least one of mat, and I would also want a layer of glass tape. For the most part, you can assume that there was a seal at one time. However, if the hull has worked, it is very possible that there can be cracks into this area. If there are cracks, it may just be gel coat, or there can be water intrusion. If there is no moisture in the transom, and the transom does not flex, when you put your full weight on the lower unit, with the motor trimmed all of the way up in the "trailering" positing--you should be fine and assume that the seal is not compromised. We put the black cap back with black 5200.
In our 25 there was minimal if any glass in some areas on the top of the transom, but there was resin and the wood core was sealed. There should be a layer of glass--at least one of mat, and I would also want a layer of glass tape. For the most part, you can assume that there was a seal at one time. However, if the hull has worked, it is very possible that there can be cracks into this area. If there are cracks, it may just be gel coat, or there can be water intrusion. If there is no moisture in the transom, and the transom does not flex, when you put your full weight on the lower unit, with the motor trimmed all of the way up in the "trailering" positing--you should be fine and assume that the seal is not compromised. We put the black cap back with black 5200.
Ours did separate a little, on the starboard side. You could see light. I sealed it up w/ black 4200/5200 (can't remember which) as well as I could and clamped it. Better than it was....
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php
local boy...i was looking at your pics of taking off swim platform. we had an additional one put on other side when we bought our boat. i have a feeling that the dealer did not use sealant because that platform has loosened slightly( little pebbles seem to find there way between step and transom and get wedged in. did you use 52 or 4200 when you put it back on?