Trolling motor location
- Thread starter Chica
- Start date
Chica-
A 20 inch "long" shaft motor often drags when mounted in the transom well and tilted up. At least my 15 hp Johnson does. I have to use a plastic block made from a 2-inch "Y" PVC pipe coupling to jack it up high enough to clear the wake, particularly at slower planning speeds. Your "extra long" 25 inch most certainly would.
What I think you need is a motor mount that swings up on a pivot bracket raising the motor vertically (as opposed to a tilt up type) to get the extra clearance you need. the bracket will have to raise up at least the equivalent of the distance from the tip of the skeg to the cavitation plate, and be capable of being mounted with the top of the bracket 25 inches above the bottom edge of the transom in the down position on the CD-22 in order to clear the motor from the water. Be sure the bracket is rated for a motor of your HP and weight.
Other thoughts to consider: Have you figured out the mechanics of the following?
1. Starting
2. Steering
3. Throttle control
4. Gear shifting
5. Gas lines
6. Weight distribution/boat balance.
A 20 inch "long" shaft motor often drags when mounted in the transom well and tilted up. At least my 15 hp Johnson does. I have to use a plastic block made from a 2-inch "Y" PVC pipe coupling to jack it up high enough to clear the wake, particularly at slower planning speeds. Your "extra long" 25 inch most certainly would.
What I think you need is a motor mount that swings up on a pivot bracket raising the motor vertically (as opposed to a tilt up type) to get the extra clearance you need. the bracket will have to raise up at least the equivalent of the distance from the tip of the skeg to the cavitation plate, and be capable of being mounted with the top of the bracket 25 inches above the bottom edge of the transom in the down position on the CD-22 in order to clear the motor from the water. Be sure the bracket is rated for a motor of your HP and weight.
Other thoughts to consider: Have you figured out the mechanics of the following?
1. Starting
2. Steering
3. Throttle control
4. Gear shifting
5. Gas lines
6. Weight distribution/boat balance.
Seawolf, thank you for your reply. Starting should be no problem, electric. Steering to the starboard will be troublesome even with the extension handle I have. Throttle control is in the extension and should be do able.Gear shifting will be a stretch. Gas lines will reach and are clear. I've moved the port battery into the starboard lazzarett along with the starboard battery to help balance the weight of the motor.
The mounting bracket I have is the tilt type, and I do not believe I have see one the lifts the motor vertically.
I think I have seen photos of boats with motors mounted behind the lazzarett, and wondered about some of the questions you raised.
It should be interesting as I'm trying to get up the nerve to start drilling holes in this beautiful boat. Thank you,Chica[/b]
The mounting bracket I have is the tilt type, and I do not believe I have see one the lifts the motor vertically.
I think I have seen photos of boats with motors mounted behind the lazzarett, and wondered about some of the questions you raised.
It should be interesting as I'm trying to get up the nerve to start drilling holes in this beautiful boat. Thank you,Chica[/b]
Chica- When I said that the motor bracket lifted the motor up vertically, I should have said that the bracket swings up with the motor still in a vertical position, as opposed to a fixed mount bracket that only allows the motor to tilt up as if it were on the transom. Actually, a fixed mount might also work if you could get enough clearance by just tilting the motor up normally.
The usual solution to the steering problem for a trolling motor, particularly with a port side mount outside of the engine well is to use a connecting bar from the main motor to the trolling motor and steer with the helm's wheel.
A few have gone so far as to add a second helm/wheel station on the rear of the bulkhead in the cockpit that controls both motors, but this is more elaborate and only works out easily if you have hydraulic steering.
I've never heard of anyone adding a second mechanical (cable) steering station in the cockpit with a wheel that only controls the trolling motor, but it should be possible. One could then add throttle and gearshift controls, too.
It should also be possible to design a tiller that bolts/clamps onto the trolling motor which would extend out to the left of the trolling motor and into the cockpit.
Another option would be to design a tiller handle that pivoted on a mount on the back of the transom in the motor well with a connecting rod over to the trolling motor.
Enough Rube Goldberg ideas!
Have fun with that drill!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Joe.
The usual solution to the steering problem for a trolling motor, particularly with a port side mount outside of the engine well is to use a connecting bar from the main motor to the trolling motor and steer with the helm's wheel.
A few have gone so far as to add a second helm/wheel station on the rear of the bulkhead in the cockpit that controls both motors, but this is more elaborate and only works out easily if you have hydraulic steering.
I've never heard of anyone adding a second mechanical (cable) steering station in the cockpit with a wheel that only controls the trolling motor, but it should be possible. One could then add throttle and gearshift controls, too.
It should also be possible to design a tiller that bolts/clamps onto the trolling motor which would extend out to the left of the trolling motor and into the cockpit.
Another option would be to design a tiller handle that pivoted on a mount on the back of the transom in the motor well with a connecting rod over to the trolling motor.
Enough Rube Goldberg ideas!
Have fun with that drill!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Joe.
The biggest problem with hanging the kicker directly on a CD22 is the angle of the transom. But, if you attach a fixed bracket to the transom with the motor mounting board straight up and down, the kicker should clear the water just fine. Even with the longer shaft, I'm guessing that if you hung your bracket at the right height to position the A/V plate ideally relative to the keel, the end of it would clear the water.
Here's a layout sketch of a bracket I made a while back that worked just fine.
If you lay that all out on a sheet of 10 gauge stainless steel (1/8" thick approx.) and bend it as suggested, you'll end up with something like this, and all you need to add is a mounting board for the motor.
Any shop with a sheet metal brake could fab that up for pretty cheap, I would think. Or, find yourself a nearby paper mill and befriend a millwright.
Another option is to buy one of the less expensive outboard brackets that has adjustable mounts, if you can find one. I bought one of those fancy spring loaded elevator brackets for my first CD, and ended up throwing away all the fancy stuff and just using a few of the pieces. I figured I wasted something over a hundred bucks. The finished bracket that worked is what I used to get the dimensions for the fabbed one. I know of three folks who have made the things, and they like the result.
Here's a layout sketch of a bracket I made a while back that worked just fine.
If you lay that all out on a sheet of 10 gauge stainless steel (1/8" thick approx.) and bend it as suggested, you'll end up with something like this, and all you need to add is a mounting board for the motor.
Any shop with a sheet metal brake could fab that up for pretty cheap, I would think. Or, find yourself a nearby paper mill and befriend a millwright.
Another option is to buy one of the less expensive outboard brackets that has adjustable mounts, if you can find one. I bought one of those fancy spring loaded elevator brackets for my first CD, and ended up throwing away all the fancy stuff and just using a few of the pieces. I figured I wasted something over a hundred bucks. The finished bracket that worked is what I used to get the dimensions for the fabbed one. I know of three folks who have made the things, and they like the result.
Hi Mike
I had one of those brackets made up from the plans you posted. I know every brand of motor is slightly different, and there is a lot involved in making it fit. Will it clear the water in the tilted position, can it turn fully port and starboard, are the controls assessable, and does it interfere with the main motor. I have a 8hp Johnson I'm trying to mount on the bracket. I want to get it right the first time because the trial and error method will leave the transom looking like swiss cheese. Where on the transom of Tyboo 22 did you put the bracket? I looked in the tyboo photo album but couldn't find any pics that showed the location. Any info would help. Also, what did you use for the board on the bracket?
Thanks
Terry
I had one of those brackets made up from the plans you posted. I know every brand of motor is slightly different, and there is a lot involved in making it fit. Will it clear the water in the tilted position, can it turn fully port and starboard, are the controls assessable, and does it interfere with the main motor. I have a 8hp Johnson I'm trying to mount on the bracket. I want to get it right the first time because the trial and error method will leave the transom looking like swiss cheese. Where on the transom of Tyboo 22 did you put the bracket? I looked in the tyboo photo album but couldn't find any pics that showed the location. Any info would help. Also, what did you use for the board on the bracket?
Thanks
Terry
Terry, you're so right about motors being different. Here's something to try before drilling.
Grab yourself a chunk of 2 x 4 and a couple of good C-clamps. Put the 2 x 4 on the inside of the transom to protect the gelcoat, and clamp the bracket to the outside. I did that to mine, and was able to hang the motor right on the bracket and check everything for fit. If it needs to be moved after the frist try, outline the bracket feet with a pencil so you remember where you started. When you get it located just right, mark the mounting holes real good before you take it off. You can also clamp your mounting board to the bracket for the first try. That way you can move it up or down before drilling its holes. You want to make sure that the holes for the bracket-to-transom do not end up too close to the motor well bottom glass, or you won't get the nuts and big washers on.
Remember when you drill thru the transom to angle the drill uphill a little. That way the nuts will be square to the transom and less likely to crack the gelcoat when you tighten them down.
The bracket on the TyBoo22 was the remnants of the store bought fancy job, so I just used the plastic board that came with it. Tim on Lynn Marie used some stuff called Trek Deck to make his mounting board, and Mark on 2nd Byte used sheets of marine plywood laminated together for his. Lyle on Scorpio used some high-tech plastic about 2" thick for his, but I think you have to get that stuff from NASA or Boeing or something.
Grab yourself a chunk of 2 x 4 and a couple of good C-clamps. Put the 2 x 4 on the inside of the transom to protect the gelcoat, and clamp the bracket to the outside. I did that to mine, and was able to hang the motor right on the bracket and check everything for fit. If it needs to be moved after the frist try, outline the bracket feet with a pencil so you remember where you started. When you get it located just right, mark the mounting holes real good before you take it off. You can also clamp your mounting board to the bracket for the first try. That way you can move it up or down before drilling its holes. You want to make sure that the holes for the bracket-to-transom do not end up too close to the motor well bottom glass, or you won't get the nuts and big washers on.
Remember when you drill thru the transom to angle the drill uphill a little. That way the nuts will be square to the transom and less likely to crack the gelcoat when you tighten them down.
The bracket on the TyBoo22 was the remnants of the store bought fancy job, so I just used the plastic board that came with it. Tim on Lynn Marie used some stuff called Trek Deck to make his mounting board, and Mark on 2nd Byte used sheets of marine plywood laminated together for his. Lyle on Scorpio used some high-tech plastic about 2" thick for his, but I think you have to get that stuff from NASA or Boeing or something.
Mighty Bite
New member
The bracket per Mike's plans is terrific. It changes the angle of the mounting surface from canted in to pretty much vertical. This allows the kicker to easily clear the water when tilted up.
I had one on 2nd Byte (which I sold) and now I have to revisit the bracket project. I had a Honda 9.9 electric start w/tiller handle on 2nd Byte and the same kicker on 3rd Byte, my new 22 CD. Currently the kicker is installed on the transom alongside the main engine (Johnson 90 4 stroke).
There is simply inadequate room to mount both engines "satisfactorily" on the transom.
Problems in mounting both directly on the transom are:
a. Due to the angle of the transom you simply cannot avoid dragging the
lower unit in the water. Thus the changing of the angle with Mike's
mounting bracket is a great remedy.
b. Due to the limited space in the motor well caused b the angle-in of the
side of the motor well, to accomodate the lazarettes, there isn't
enough room to fully tilt the engine and clear the side of the motor
well with the tiller handle. (ie: note that my kicker is mounted on the
port side which exacerbates the proximity of the tiller handle to the
side of motor well. Were I to do it again I would consider a remote
mdl. w/o the tiller handle, but that would still leave me with needing
the Tyboo "smart bracket" for water clearance for the lower unit.
Thus the problem is twofold and the good news is that Mike's smart bracket
solves both of them. Different kickers may avoid some of this but the above is what you can expect with the stated combination.
I had one on 2nd Byte (which I sold) and now I have to revisit the bracket project. I had a Honda 9.9 electric start w/tiller handle on 2nd Byte and the same kicker on 3rd Byte, my new 22 CD. Currently the kicker is installed on the transom alongside the main engine (Johnson 90 4 stroke).
There is simply inadequate room to mount both engines "satisfactorily" on the transom.
Problems in mounting both directly on the transom are:
a. Due to the angle of the transom you simply cannot avoid dragging the
lower unit in the water. Thus the changing of the angle with Mike's
mounting bracket is a great remedy.
b. Due to the limited space in the motor well caused b the angle-in of the
side of the motor well, to accomodate the lazarettes, there isn't
enough room to fully tilt the engine and clear the side of the motor
well with the tiller handle. (ie: note that my kicker is mounted on the
port side which exacerbates the proximity of the tiller handle to the
side of motor well. Were I to do it again I would consider a remote
mdl. w/o the tiller handle, but that would still leave me with needing
the Tyboo "smart bracket" for water clearance for the lower unit.
Thus the problem is twofold and the good news is that Mike's smart bracket
solves both of them. Different kickers may avoid some of this but the above is what you can expect with the stated combination.
Looks like I need to get one of these brackets made. I have a 4hp kicker I use for the dingy. It is one with out a reverse and will turn 360. Mounted next to the main I have to be very careful to get it in just the right spot.
On the last trip I got pushed to the bank by wind and the kicker got turned while in the tilted postion. After pushing off from shore I turned the main and heard a lound pop. It turned out to be the lifting handle on the front of the kicker. Broke it off with out even slowing down - hydraulic steering. On a previous trip I broke the tiller handel in the same way.
Guess I better do this soon or there will be nothing left of my kicker! :crook
On the last trip I got pushed to the bank by wind and the kicker got turned while in the tilted postion. After pushing off from shore I turned the main and heard a lound pop. It turned out to be the lifting handle on the front of the kicker. Broke it off with out even slowing down - hydraulic steering. On a previous trip I broke the tiller handel in the same way.
Guess I better do this soon or there will be nothing left of my kicker! :crook
As far as throttle control is concerned, I just installed a Troll Master Pro Max on my 8hp Yamaha and it works great. Check it out.
http://troll-masterpro.com/
Rick
http://troll-masterpro.com/
Rick