genehelfman
New member
WE have our eye on a 2007 C-25. Are there specific issues we should look for with this model and year?
Thanks,
gene and judy
Thanks,
gene and judy
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WHAT ARE KNOWN ISSUES WITH 2007 C-25?
- Thread starter genehelfman
- Start date
Salmon Fisher
Member
I believe it has the fiberglass molded-in interior. I like the plywood decraguard interior, having owned 2 C Dorys with that.
Have you looked at the 2006 25 that is for sale by BBoater down in Des Moines? He has made some nice upgrades along with a brand new 200 Suzuki.
Here's the link:
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=28062
Have you looked at the 2006 25 that is for sale by BBoater down in Des Moines? He has made some nice upgrades along with a brand new 200 Suzuki.
Here's the link:
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=28062
Just for clarification, the change from decraguard to molded fiberglass happened sometime during the 2007 model year. Wild Blue was a 2007 (delivered in July 2006) and had the decraguard.
Known issues with that era were the leaky water connections (especially the mis-matched connectors to the shower) that were assembled with some kind of white goop. That should have been corrected on any boat that has had regular use. The water pump was located in the aft bilge; most owners raised the pump to get it out of the water that collects in the bilge (deck hatches leak).
Some boats had leaks at the rub rail where holes were mis-drilled and not filled. I think Tim (the second owner) found some water intrusion where the windlass opening was cut, and he repaired/sealed that.
In spite of those issues, the boat was a solid build. The factory listed weight was over a ton off (boat weighed more than the published weight) from the actual weight - just something to keep in mind if you are going to be towing. Our boat was 8,700 pounds on the trailer (weighed at a CAT scale), with less than 1/4 fuel and full water (cruising gear like the dinghy/motor and supplies were in the bed of he truck). We did add electric over hydraulic brakes to the King Salt Water Series trailer.
That boat took us on cruises coast to coast to coast. We went with the factory suggested Honda 135 motor - it suited our cruising style. Seems that a 200 is the favored motor when people have been repowering. I was originally thinking twin 90s, but the Honda 90 of that era was not fuel injected, the 135 is.
Known issues with that era were the leaky water connections (especially the mis-matched connectors to the shower) that were assembled with some kind of white goop. That should have been corrected on any boat that has had regular use. The water pump was located in the aft bilge; most owners raised the pump to get it out of the water that collects in the bilge (deck hatches leak).
Some boats had leaks at the rub rail where holes were mis-drilled and not filled. I think Tim (the second owner) found some water intrusion where the windlass opening was cut, and he repaired/sealed that.
In spite of those issues, the boat was a solid build. The factory listed weight was over a ton off (boat weighed more than the published weight) from the actual weight - just something to keep in mind if you are going to be towing. Our boat was 8,700 pounds on the trailer (weighed at a CAT scale), with less than 1/4 fuel and full water (cruising gear like the dinghy/motor and supplies were in the bed of he truck). We did add electric over hydraulic brakes to the King Salt Water Series trailer.
That boat took us on cruises coast to coast to coast. We went with the factory suggested Honda 135 motor - it suited our cruising style. Seems that a 200 is the favored motor when people have been repowering. I was originally thinking twin 90s, but the Honda 90 of that era was not fuel injected, the 135 is.
Our ‘07 has the wooden interior. Easier to remodel. 2007->8 was when the new molded interior debuted. Depending on when your boat was made, you could have either.
I’d look at all core intrusions and hope they are sound, including the hause pipe, cockpit steps, access ports on the cockpit deck etc. Remove the brass bow guard. Seal the holes and install a glue on one. Remove the plastic plumbing fittings on the water heater and replace with bronze. Move the water pump up and out of the wet bilge. We rusted thru two of them in no time because they were literally sitting in water (until I replaced the leaky deck hatches).
I’d look at all core intrusions and hope they are sound, including the hause pipe, cockpit steps, access ports on the cockpit deck etc. Remove the brass bow guard. Seal the holes and install a glue on one. Remove the plastic plumbing fittings on the water heater and replace with bronze. Move the water pump up and out of the wet bilge. We rusted thru two of them in no time because they were literally sitting in water (until I replaced the leaky deck hatches).
My boat built in Dec. 2006 was one of the very first fiberglass interiors. When I owned a 25 with the Decraguard interior, I thought it was preferable. Now that I own a fiberglass, interior; these is more room in cabinets, there is a nice "kick space under the cabinets--where you can stow shoes and sandals if you don't use the kick space.
The cockpit core around both of the round access hatches will probably have to be routed out and sealed with thickened Epoxy. Also the "steps" on each side covering the fuel lines to the tank, need to be removed, (just fastened with angle iron and screws) need to be removed, and then edges routed and filled with thickened epoxy--then re-bedded.
All of the other areas can be issues as in any C Dory--but nothing particular to the 2007.
We also have added electric over hydraulic brakes--consider this almost essential for the 25 trailers, if doing any grades--even Eastern. We did have surge brakes on our first 25--and did loose a bearing because of drag on downgrade where I used diesel compression to slow the rig, and the caliper heated up from the trailer pushing against the truck.
All in all I think the 2007 is a definite improvement over the earlier (2003) boat I owned.
We have moved the water pump aft, and on top of a 3/4" piece of Starboard to solve the water drip on it issue.
We have 2 bilge pumps aft, one 3" about, the standard, with an alarm. Also putting in a "Dry Bilge" pump. We have managed to keep 99% of water out of the bilge.
See if there is foam under the V berth, if not this is another great storage area.
The cockpit core around both of the round access hatches will probably have to be routed out and sealed with thickened Epoxy. Also the "steps" on each side covering the fuel lines to the tank, need to be removed, (just fastened with angle iron and screws) need to be removed, and then edges routed and filled with thickened epoxy--then re-bedded.
All of the other areas can be issues as in any C Dory--but nothing particular to the 2007.
We also have added electric over hydraulic brakes--consider this almost essential for the 25 trailers, if doing any grades--even Eastern. We did have surge brakes on our first 25--and did loose a bearing because of drag on downgrade where I used diesel compression to slow the rig, and the caliper heated up from the trailer pushing against the truck.
All in all I think the 2007 is a definite improvement over the earlier (2003) boat I owned.
We have moved the water pump aft, and on top of a 3/4" piece of Starboard to solve the water drip on it issue.
We have 2 bilge pumps aft, one 3" about, the standard, with an alarm. Also putting in a "Dry Bilge" pump. We have managed to keep 99% of water out of the bilge.
See if there is foam under the V berth, if not this is another great storage area.
My '08 22 has the fiberglass interior cabinets. I happen to like it. Working the FG for mods is not much different than working wood. My cabinets are solid FG so there are no issues with core rot with the interior fixtures. I would guess that the thickness of the material is about 1/2 what it is for wood.
Any future C-Dorys I buy will probably be the FG interior (unless the deal is truly too good to pass up).
Any future C-Dorys I buy will probably be the FG interior (unless the deal is truly too good to pass up).