Fault Codes With Wallas DTNordic

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Ski_chelle

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Hello!

I recently purchased a truck camper (used) with a Wallas DT Nordic Stove. Was not familiar with it previously, so trying to get adjusted to it. We originally ran into some problems (bad internal fumes, leaking under stove) but we changed out for new fuel and that fixed a lot of our issues.

We’ve now been able to use the stove for cooking for the last couple weeks. Seems to start up just fine, but most nights it ends up with codes (lights start blinking), and then I end up powering it down. Will generally have to then do a few start up tries if I want to get it turned on again. Must times the errors occur right when dinner is about ready, so don’t end up turning it on again.

Tonight I used it in heater mode for the first time. Got the blinking lights error maybe 15 - 20 minutes in, so shut it off.


Am I doing harm by abruptly shutting the off the stove once the errors start. Any recommendations on how to move forward with my problems?
 
These are susceptible to low voltage--check the battery voltage when you are running it. I monitor batteries in boats and RV's with Victron (there are Chinese knock offs) 712 with bluetooth for smart phone.

Next I would check the fue pump, to be sure it is pulling fuel--is the fuel tank right under the stove, or lower than the floor of the RV. Are you using the correct fuel? (Scan Marine is very helpful with trouble shooting.)

Now all you need is a CDory...
Happy Thanksgiving.
 
thataway said:
These are susceptible to low voltage--check the battery voltage when you are running it. I monitor batteries in boats and RV's with Victron (there are Chinese knock offs) 712 with bluetooth for smart phone.

Next I would check the fue pump, to be sure it is pulling fuel--is the fuel tank right under the stove, or lower than the floor of the RV. Are you using the correct fuel? (Scan Marine is very helpful with trouble shooting.)

Now all you need is a CDory...
Happy Thanksgiving.
Click to expand...
Thanks! We’ll take a closer look at the voltage.

The fuel tank sits just outside the camper and gets pumped inside. We just filled it up with new diesel a couple weeks ago.
 
In our boats the fuel tank is under the galley counter. The fuel pump is not real "strong". You can introduce a bubbe in the fuel line, and follow it up to the pump. I suspect your fuel container is too low, and it is fuel starved. Try moving the tank so it is no more than 30" below the stove/heater.
 
thataway said:
In our boats the fuel tank is under the galley counter. The fuel pump is not real "strong". You can introduce a bubbe in the fuel line, and follow it up to the pump. I suspect your fuel container is too low, and it is fuel starved. Try moving the tank so it is no more than 30" below the stove/heater.
Click to expand...
Thanks, really appreciate the insight.

The odd thing is that it always starts up fine and seems to generally cook for 20-30 mins before it errors. Then once I clear the code, it will start up just fine again and run for another 20-30 mins before erroring again. If it was fuel starved would you think it wouldn’t be able to last so long?

Although our tank is outside the camper, it’s definitely not more than 30 inches below the stove.

We can try to adjust how to tank is sitting to see if that makes any difference.
 
thataway said:
These are susceptible to low voltage--check the battery voltage when you are running it. I monitor batteries in boats and RV's with Victron (there are Chinese knock offs) 712 with bluetooth for smart phone.

Next I would check the fue pump, to be sure it is pulling fuel--is the fuel tank right under the stove, or lower than the floor of the RV. Are you using the correct fuel? (Scan Marine is very helpful with trouble shooting.)

Now all you need is a CDory...
Happy Thanksgiving.
Click to expand...
We have a Redarc manager and our voltage is over 13v when we’ve checked it during the stove running.
 
Despite having owned both RV and boats for over 60 years, I had never heard of Redarc monitoring system. I read the manual and brochure, and it is similar to the Victron 712, although I would choose the Victron unit because it appears to give slightly more date. It should work. If you have the fuel at a high leve, then that theory is out the window. However, I still would do the bubble test to see how well the fuel pump is working--you might be surprised. I like to measure the voltage in at least digital tenths of a volt and tenths of an amp. However it appears to be a good unit, although not as well suited to marina use--(It is a negative shunt monitor similar to the Balmar "smart Battery monitor" and has most of the functions of the Victron.
 
Scan Marine is great, give them a call on Monday.
 
Scan Marine fixed mine by phone on the first try.
 
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